MilesFox

I would consider a powder coat if i had the trans apart and split the case. None day in the future, i dream of swaping in a 4.444 diff with dual range and the xt6 gearset. But for now, the trans is squeaky clean, and the por would stick to the rough texture. If only thay had POR 15 in a spray can.

So I have my car apart for a swap/restp and i am re-painting underhood with #569 'chestnut metallic brown' with clearcoat. This is the factory color matched with real ppg paint. So...I have scrubbed down the transmission by had with foamy engine brite and dish soap. I got 99$ of grease off of it, except for a few nooks and crannies. Some of the aluminum is shiny, but some is brownish and pitted from oxidization. Basically, the metal is shiny where the grease was, and dull where it wasnt. I sprayed muratic acid on the trans, but it dod not take off the brownish oxidization, and left the bright aluminum textured. I am going to try bleche white tire cleaner and see what that does. My goal was to make the metal shiny and clearcoat for a factory fresh look. But then again, it may be too tedios to go in with a polishing wheel end a dremel. I have the idea of por-15 on the trans to seal it up, make it glossy, and then paint a color. For this sake, maybe just paint it aluminum. I thought of gold to compliment my color scheme(brown with bbs or 80's factory gold color on the lower bodyline down with touched of sti pink here and there) I would avoid painting the trans black, since the car is a darker color anyway, so it would be nice to contrast against the body, but not be so obnoxious it would not look right with the motor. And also, i am looking for dress-up ideas, since i can paint anything under the hood, the brackets and whatnot, but some of the ones that look new with factory plating i would opt to just clearcoat. The hood latch is original natural color, but since it has rust on it, i am por 15ing it, but would chassis black, or some sort of silver color look best. The idea is to look factory fresh, but with some taseteful dress-up as well.. This is an ej swap with xt drivline, but the fit in finish is going to be factory as possible with all subaru oem parts mounted properly everywhere they can.

Welcome to Ultimate Subaru!. Nice to see someone from lansing/michigan, as there are few and far between folks in that area. I am native to NE indiana, and my mother lives in coldwater, MI, so that brings me out your way. Anyway, you found the right place. You should enjoy your subaru in the ame way as the old VW hardware, and the culture, enthusiasm, and folks that go with.

Funny how you got stone guard white. Mine is black, and was about 13 bucks. The spt hardware is nice. Do they make them in gold? I lost my spt battery tie in johnny's loyale, and paid 30 bucks for it. Oh, you will have to swap an ej oil tube to use the spt, unless you put it in the trashwagon. I am thinking about using the metal ea82 fill tube on my ej swap

I have read that the impreza hubs will work. According to your listings, thiose would all fit the same. the 85-89 listing would regard the hatchback and brat. l series 85-93 would cover all dl/gl/loyale/rx SPORTSWAGON 85-93 is most likely the turbo gl, gl10-, and loyale

Metal, drill, saw, welder. That, or 500 bucks

My experience with felpro is there are oem parts for specific non-cardboard/cork gaskets. Go with the best price, since the part is ultimately coming from the same manufacturer

This is not related to NAPA, this is related to fel-pro. Napa carries BOSAL parts, and have always had the right gasket for me, real metal ones. Bosal gaskets for one, but more importantly, new exhaust studs, you can find them in the 'HELP' brand at most auto stores. There is one kit with a pair, get 2. Otherwise, if that is not there, you can get the GM/Toyota (corolla/prism) manifold set, which has 3 studs and 2 bolts. You will not hold torque ising bolts or old studs. If your old stud had the nut come off with the stud, you are no good. Properly, the stud should go in first, and as the nut goes on, it holds the torque. The stud itself should not bottom out and take torque against the threads, but be in the thread where the nut takes the torque. Your magic bullet is new studs. m12x1.25

Your problems may be related to the coolant temp sensor, as this component directly affects when the idle air ontrol valve opens and closes. If the car thinks its warm, the idle will be bad when cold, and the IAC will not be open.

the fwd fuse is not necessary to flat tow. Generally, the car should be running in neutral if you tow with any automatic. If the distance is only a mile, you will be ok. keep the speed about 30 mph and no foul.

Def. the water pump. If it was the little hose under the intake, it would run down the top and back of the motor. The oil on the exhaust pipe is likely the valve cover. The head gaskets do not leak externally like the newer engines do. First clue to a bad HG will be steam in the tailpipe, or bubbles in the radiator. Fi the water pump now, and service the timing belt and cam seals. Lose the inner and outer timing belt covers, and your future maintenance will be infinitely easier

how xan one be sick of such a clean car? Thiose are turbo legacy sedan or 95-96 outback wheels. Super clean find, super clean price!

This an be avoided by removing the inner and outer covers. it should not be a problem with a lift.

Car washes do good for painting booths

Heck Yea:banana: Can you try to get that trim piece off? this lets you get to that rust bubble. You would have to get the clips out from behind. 85-and 86 glued on, so if the tabs break you have that option. Then you can paint the whole door in one shot.

I have painted more cars than everyone has owned. Even if you owned 25 cars, i got you beat

By tis approach, you are contradicting yourself. Start with the CTS, and i bet your knock sensor code goes away. Replace the free part first, before dropping 80 bucks on a knock sensor you dont need

A buddy of mine has a weber and it leaked. He corrected the problem by filling the coolant passage in the adaptpr plate with JB weld. Silicone will eventually fail with teh presence of gasoline.

NOPE. scotch brites are good. Desmond used a polishing wheel and polish compound to buff the flat black paint, and then painted over it without washing it. That will cause an orange peel Scotch brite the car, wash it of, or at least clean the surfaces with a window cleaner. I recommend a primer coat, first.

Oh yeah, one more theing, For safety, stand behind or off to the side of the regulator in case the knob blows out, this is safety practice fro pressure tanks. and be sure tho cap the valves when not in use(on the tanks) There is a procedure for open ing and closing the valves, so the pressure doesnt shock the system. I dont remember what order that is, but its another safety tactic.

I would first see if you might be off a tooth in the timing belt if it does not rev out, but your first condition is likely to be the coolant temp sensor, as the car stalls or does not start when warm. This sensor is located on the back of the manifold near the turbo. if you remove the 'subaru 4wd turbo' plenum, you will access it much easier. It has a brown top, and a connector shaped like the ones on the injectors the coolant temp sensor cross references with some nissan application, if you have a hard time finding it. At the parts counter , your listings will be 1985-1995, ea82 sohc or ohc, not the ohv 1.8 mpfi turbo. You can try looking for a loyale or XT for the listing as well

the 1985 engine is crb, and is very similar schematically to the brat, and would plug and play for the most part. This is easy. Folks would suggest ej22, but that involves wiring harness and fuel pump/lines. If you do not have the original motor, the ea82 will be 90% a direct fit, save for some hoses and wires. get the trans, the driveshaft, the rear trailing arms, and everything with the motor. Everything will locate the same. you may have to beat out the trans tunnel for the rear half of the trans, or cut some of the shifter hole out for the lift, or modify your own shifter rod. It is possible to swap a complete ea82 driveline and front suspension as it has been done before(the infamous trashwagon)

Make sure it does not have a broken timing belt. The distributor makes the fuel pump come on, and the disty is driven by the timing belt. You can verify this by removing the cap, and watch to see if the rotor is turning when cranking. If not, make sure the set screw on the rotor did not fall out, otherwise, return the fuel pump for a timing belt set. You can cycle the fuel pump to see if it works by plugging in the green connectors under the dash. The fuel pump relay is located directly above the steering column, the brown square one.

You need to set the pressures with the regulator for the different gases. Oxygen is typically about 30-35. dont get too rich beyond 35 with the oxy. I am not sure what the propane would be for welding. In welding class 10 years ago we had acetylene, and the pressure was 15 psi, and any more, it could self combust at higher pressures. I would assume propane to be 30 psi if i remember right from working at u-haul filling propane. Try to look that up to be sure. On the torch, you want to turn on the propane first, the red hose, and set a good foot long flame. then dial in the oxygen so the flame has blue spikes about 1/4 in long out of the holes on the tip. The lever on the bottom is to inject a plast of oxy to blow out your puddle of melted metal. if you are cutting, you want to warm up a white hot spot first, and then blow it out and move at a rate you can melt it. in heating to cherry red or hotter, dial the oxygen lower and dont use the blow lever It has been millions of years since i used one, but this is what i remember.

Parts nu,bers can overlap in production years, but be different parts based on different platforms for a particular year within the overlaps. Listings for the xt are particularly vague. you said the listing was for 85-89, and there would probably be a listing for 89-91. The xt was sort of a platform bridge between the old ea platforms to the newer ej platform, as is with the XT-6