MilesFox

This is a common occurrence. It can be regarded as routine service interval. Inspect for oil leaks. The oil pump has an o-ring shaped like a 'mickey mouse', and the 'ears' can get sucked in like a pac man shape, and aerate the oil causing the lifters to collapse. This is more an annoyance issue than a mechanical issue. But, if you got dirty oil, and they go on forever, the lifters will just be done for as the contaminates hog out the tolerances. do searches for the words 'oil pump' and 'cam tower o-ring'. Service is rather simple on these cars, but in their own peculiar own way, being unconventional in platform.

pop off the hose and pour some sea foam into the inlet till it fills up. go in the kar and turn the key on. The iac will open and the fluid will go down. turn key off and repeat. do this several times, let the car sit for a good 10 minutes, then start it up. Do this procedure for about a 3rd of the can. If that don't do it, you can remove the short bolt from the alt and swing it up, and then you have room to get the screws.

I forgot to take it with me to mock up. I was going to bolt up the front and center to the body, and bolt up the original cover plate piece that would otherwise be the at trans mount, drill my holes, and back it with some 1/8 flat stock to beef it up, and call that my mount. It also looks like the trans mount on scott's 2000 legacy AT looks to be the same part as the xt6, but in much better shape. I am going to try and use that, and cram it full of 3M windo-weld

Well, after bringing home a whole legacy for 300 bucks, and a motor for 200, desmond conceded and decided to sell me back my xt6, so that is what i am using, the xt6 trans. I do know someone who has a modified driveshaft and xmember for an ej trans(xt dude) , but i would have to give the money to numbchux, as this is where it came from

I gave up on the seam welding as i burned a hole in the floor on my 3rd weld. I decided it's not necessary or beneficial unless this car was caged and prepped for stage rally. I went ahead and undercoated the trans tunnel, por 15's the shifter linkage, modified and hybrided my trans xmember to have double mounts, and stripped the firewall and de-rusted it. Next step is to wash the engine bay with soap and water, and por 15. i have custom mixed color match paint on its way, #569 Metallic Brown and some pro grade clearcoat to repaint the engine bay. From there, i am ready to install the trans. in the meantime, i need to install the shifter. I am using the xt shifter which is quite complicated, so i need to mount it to the body first. i am doing the electrolysis on the suspension pieces, so once the paint is applied, i can go ahead and assemble the engine cradle and control arms XT6 brake booster compared to the ea82. I will have to do a modification similar to shawn w's crossbred performance kit. I am going to compare pedal boxes and see if i can swap the pedal. otherwise, i will have to cut and weld

roll on is less time consuming, less prep, and less mess. If spraying, you deal with wind, masking off the windows, and overspray dust on you unpainted surfaces. roll on you can do outside, just tape off the trim pieces, and go to town. prep the car by scuffing it down with a scotch brite pad. not the cheap ones, but the green 3M scotch brand. tis is equivalent to 220 sandpaper. roll on the rust-o straight from the can, in 2 coats. complete the first coat before going for the 2nd. get the 6 inch foam rollers and a paint tray. only pour out of the can a little at a time, enough that you can use up befoe the paint gets tacky and sticky. If you pour the whole can into the tray, you will get about 15 minutes befoe he paint gets too gummy to lay smooth

Mike Cutrano at the Subaru Heaven swears by regular straight 30 wt oil.

thaT Makes sense. my body is a fwd 1986. In my case, i could have just used the fwd trans mount by itself without the hybrid

I had replied before with this diagram but the database error must have cut me off . here again:

You ight have bad intake gaskets. This explains the coolant out the tail, but not HG sypmtoms. The only other thing is a cracked head, but the intake gasket is more likely. intake gaskets are easy, the intake comes off as one unit.

You are going to have to hybrid the trans mounts to fit. The rear part is too wide. You can swap the rx mounts and have 2 mount sets. I just took pictures of my xt6 swap with the trans mount, you can see it here once i upload the pics: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=119353&highlight=runabout

You can cut into the radiator core support, and box it in with some angle to move the rad about 2 inches forward. You can get by with the original radiator if you sleeve the fittings with the smaller hose, and clamp the larger hose over it. I contemplated in my ea82 3door. I opted for an ej22, mainly because it was there with a harness all done. I would have gone er27 if i had not found an ej22. i am curious to fit the engine into the car, just to see what it looks like, as i am using the xt6 trans and 5 lugs. in the brat with the ea81 body, you may have to re-clock the disty and cut off an ear to clear the master cylinder, and dislocate and move the hill holder to clear the er27 motor, as this is true for an ea81 motor. But this may not apply to you with a 4 inch lift:lol: There are folks that have done an er27 brat before, so if you have the parts, it can be done.

ej22 is a whole motor. a stock ea82 turbo has 110 hp. a n/a ej22 has 135

Try ea82 wagon rims. on 87 and up, using ea81 rims, there is a bout a 1mm clearance issue on the front calipers. An ea81 hub will swap out. Try the drum hub from an 85-86 for the wagon wheels. you can retrofit a whole ea81 drum setup, but it is smaller in diameter.

It;s the kind of thing you will most likely have to source a car to pull it from. Not quite a shelf item

you can get a code for one thing, compounded by something else. Based on common ocurrence, the CTS is the likely culprit.

2700 bucks is a lot for an ea82. if i went over there and found one speck of rust i would have to complain, for that price. 1500 is more reasonable. you can't sell a 2nd gen legacy for 2700 anymore

you can simply wire a switch in place of the thermo switch at the radiator and turn the fan on any time. if the switch is hoked up in parallel to the thermo switch, you can manually override it on when its not on, but it would come on naturally if you forgot to flip the switch. this way you are not hacking up the cars original circuitry. And anytime you got people hardwiring their fans because they dont come on, its only because they dont understand the thermoswitch or its curcuit to complete ground. It's very simple to do, as long as you are aware of how it works.

for the fan, there is a thermo switch in the radiator. The wire going to it is hot all the time. once the thermoswitch warms up, it closes, and trips the relay for the fan. the thermoswitch completes a path to ground when it closes. you can test this by simply unplugging the thermoswitch and jumping the terminal. the single wire one on the thermostat housing is for the gauge. The coolant temp sensor, for the ecu, is located at the back of the intake near the turbo, and has a clip shaped like the ones on the injecotors. this can cause warm running issues when it is bad

coolant temp sensor. Itls located on the left side of the motor behind the intake on the water crossover tube. ypu can get one at napa

Aside from the orientation of the intake tube, the tire would fit around a turbo, but would have to go for a TMIC. For a strut bar, i would prefer to find an SPT or STI factory option one, for originality/most retrofitability to real subaru parts. I am thinking about rear e-brake setup, that i would have to modify the handle or ditch it, and maybe make a modification to the trans tunnel for the rearward cables. I can try to fit the 03 outback stuff and see what that does. and then i cn get the sti handle for imprezas to look right with the rest of the car. if there was a leather rown one, that would be sweet! I am thinking of a leather wrap for the steering wheel. kind of stodgy, but it's non-permanent

GC is a reference to the first gen imprez 1993-1999, and even the bugeye impreza after 2000 are the same platform. I think the 8 refers to turbo coupes, which we did not get in the USA. Try dirtyimpreza.com for that particular info. The XT6 was sort of an engineering bridge between the old ea platfroms and the up and coming legacy platform, with the orientation of the throttle body, the mounting of the pitch bar, and the front hubs and macpherson strut setup, and a few other oddities.

Welcome!. Please search the meet'n'greet forum and find our milwaukee regional/subaru alliance thread. There is a meet at the don miller subaru in june, we hope to see you there. Subaru alliance welcomes you from milwaukee: MilesFox The Loyale Xbeerd Slickdizzy B88185 You can also find us on http://www.dirtyimpreza.com in the regional forum "new milwaukee thread", as we post the most actiity there. But alas, we are all oldschoolers rolling in a fleet of 86 3-doors and lifted loyale wagons. I have a stockpile of parts if you ever need anything. Hollar!

Everyone should know all this by now. !0 years ago, i built a lift myself. That is how it was done. Too many people come and ask all this stuff like it's wikipedia, not acknowledging that all the info here is firs-hand knowledge from those who bothered to engineer this stuff with no prior references.

you dont need them if you buy new impreza or already have. but if you are there, take as much as you can! I am just stating the bare minimum you would need if you were limited. get the instrument bezel as it is worth 100 bucks on the xt boards. you have to remove the knockout plug in the clock and remove the screw, to get the radio out, and then get the bezel off. If you break it, then you know why everyone has a 100 bucks for a non broken one