MilesFox

someone would have to go steal this on someone's car, try to fit it to theirs, and then come here to answer your question. all of the knowledge on this board is first-hand, initially.

try to find a vinyl hose. I wonder if PEX tubing(plumbing) would work?

may just need to replace the worn lifters. Now that you have replaced everything, the lifters may just be done in already. Replace any ones you can squeeze down byhand

pull the switch above the clutch pedal and jumper the plug to defeat it.

get the whole rear brake assy. it would be less work to take the whole trailing arm/axle and all. this will give you the swaybar mounts! and for the front, get the lower control arms at leasyt, as well as the knuckle. a modified control arm can be substituted, impreza knuckles and struts can be substituted(you lose the aprking brake), but the rear 5 lug hub is the golden egg. Those are the only ting that cannot be sugstituted, and in the right market, those hubs alone are worth 150-200 bucks

I am interested in seam sealing structural parts of the body that hold the trans, pitch bar, strut towers and raduis rod plates for overall stability, and taking the opportunity to do all of this while the car is just a hollow body. For stiffness, not rust. and just whre it is necessary, to save labor. I am so tired of welding, i will be blind and deaf by the time i am done.

You can simply order new struts for a forester and replace the ones in any impreza to have a little wagon with the ground clearance of a forester. really, if you do your homework, you can pick the right base and build to suit. Subarus are like legos, and are backwards compatible over a span of 20 years of cars.

Dont forget about the mess of coolant hoses running around the spider intake. It would be worth your time to pull the inteka and replace avery hose, and the intake gaskets. Make sure you are not using fuel line for the coolant hoses, as they will not hold up.

consider a legacy 1990-1996, or an impreza thru 99. Cheap cars, can be had for 1500 bucks or so, rock solid engines, just find one that is not rusty. A lot of newer model parts can be retrofitted to the older models. just so you know, the forester is based on an impreza. compared to a legacy, it is a smaller car with bigger wheels, and a taller roof. An impreza outback sport wagon would be the next best thing to a forester, if you do not want to go the route of swapping more reliable engines.

stack an ea2ej adapter on top of the one you have, that should be correct for an ej22, i would presume. there is a 12mm difference in depth o the ea and ej bellhousings. using the ej adapter on your existing would be the same routine as using an ej adapter on an ea trans

I resorted to cutting sections from the xt6. I t welded up much better. The home depot metal must be different or thinner than what i had last time... I got the driver side framerail built and tacked up and called it a day. All i need to do now is fully weld and grind down, and build the last part of the jack support. Then i'm onto de-rusting the trans trunnel and seam welding the trans/suspension mount stampings.

this thing is pissin me off so far, ugly rump roast welds and stupid home depot metal that burns through. The finished one in the pic welded up like a dream. The other side is being a pain, being on the wrong side for my right-handed ness, and it's trying my pationce. I broke my phone and left the shop to get some tobacco. I feel better now. I hope to finish it tonite. Sorry, no pics, because i broke my phone. I guess that's what cameras are for, if i can find the charger to it.

Do you have an analog gauge? The big piece the wire is connected to is for a analog gauge with oil pressure. The smaller one would be for a digi dash, and dummy lite, where the other piece is not present. If your car is analog, the big sender is the original piece, and the other unit should not be there, but be a plug instead.

weep holes are leaking in the WP, a sign of a worn bearing, you will want to replace it as the WP wull lose efficiency and cause overheats. I bet the impeller is corroded. and you may have a pinhole leak in one of the metal steering rack lines where they clamp down the the crossmember, this has happened to me, and would be a result of a rusty environment. Inspect the hard lines where its mounting clip is on the crossmember.

Let me tell you all that the problem will be the ignition switch behind the key cylinder. This is general common knowledge with those experienced in subarus. This is easily accessible and replaceable by removing the steering column covers. This is common in all subarus, mainly automatics, and is also common with the nissan/subaru keysets. The contacts inside the switch get bad, and do not send the voltage to the starter solenoid. the starter and or solenoids rarely fail. Unless you pull minute long cranks in vain trying to start a car with no fuel! If your jumper wire is working, then you can eliminate the starter as the culprit. I would be disappointed for someone to buy a new starter and still have the problem. The small tab on the back of the starter is a low draw, so all you need is 18 ga wire and a pushbutto switch, and a fuse if you like. You can take off power from the fuse panel to the button, and then out to the starter. My car does this, and it will eventually start if i rattle the key enough. You can, if you wish, tie into the key switch and run the starter on a relay. any standard relay will work. You can use one that goes to fog light kits at auto stores, or even salvage a subaru relay and its connecotor to build a circuit. you can defeat the neutral switch by jumping the 2 largest wires on the shifter harness. Good luck, i hope my information is helpful in your case.

If you can find a picture of a 2wd xt, that will give you an idea.

if you think you might get coolant out of the exhaust, did you think that you can get exhaust into the coolant? this would be the beginnings of a head gasket. Watch for bubbles in the radiator when the car is running, after it is warm and the thermostat is open

try huffing the radiator and smell how exhausty it is. the red fluids can be coming from the power steering rack or lines that run through the crosmember

I painted my 68 gmc truck rustoleum 'almond' color, as the home depot carries a lot of specialty rustoleums. I used the roll-on technique, and had a matching spray can for tight areas. For durability, i recommend the roll on with 2 coats, easy to apply, less prep and masking. sand the whole car down with scotch brite pads just enough to take the gloss out before painting. i say go with almond for your 'beige' color. this would look better with a black bottom than green, in my opinion. there is a product called 'body schutz' by 3m, and maybe permatex that i would recommend to paint the lower part of your doors. Its like a undercoating that is paintable. It is the same stuff sprayed on the rockers and front valence from the factory before the topcoat, if you notice a texture on the rocker sills(as i observe on all ea82 suabrus) This would be easier to apply and probably stick better then bed liner, less cost for materials

This would probably only apply to using it in the crankcase oil, but then again, you only want to do so immediately before an oil change. Otherwise, the general consensus says SeaFoam is great!

The brighton trim line is akin to the DL trim line in older soobs, its basically the basic package without power windows and cruise. its mechanically the same ans anything else. a gauge cluster with tach would swap in.

I have a few questions regarding an ej222. This 222 is form on 01 impreza, and is a pull-out form a swpped 86 brat, wiring loom and all Will the metal cam sprockets from a 22e swap over? how closely can the ej22e intake boots fit in place of the big football airbox on the 222. I would like to fit the mpfi engine cover that cam on the 1st gens. ea82 or first gen ej22 power steering pump onto ej222? or o1 impreza ps lines to fit on 91 legacy steering rack? Is there some magic combination of ej flywheel that will fit an xt6 disc and pp/trans? I already have an adapter plate is there a paint code for the rs wheels/wrx gold color? i would like to paint my wheels and the rx body kit this gold color. is there a paint code or a particular brand of paint that is closest to cherry blossom? Does anyone think a digital gauge cluster with dash harness fom an 87 gl1 would work on its own with no ecu or mpfi harness in a 86 coupe with hitachi harness? I would like to retrofit in the trip computer as well, since the coupe never came in gl-10 trim some guy paid me to defeat his factory alarm in ahis 98 outback, and i have access to the unit, and thought about retrofitting it into the coupe. I would need to swap in power locks, and i will need to get a fob

So are you trying to run a carb, but still use the ignition and crank sensors? hmmm, interesting. I could see it would work, but you might have to come up with a way to have a dynamic timing curve, maybe keep the CTS and whatever will sense load for the advance

you can swap in physically shorter struts to lower, if you use ones from a FWD turbo xt. The xt spring may be shorter too. but for factory fit ea82 fare, FWD xt is what you should be looking at