MilesFox

The steering wheel is a alip on cover, vinyl with walnut burl look. it closely matches the wood inserts on the car. If you look closely, there are matchng wood burl floormats as well. The woodgrain on the exterior of the car is contac shelf paper. It has been applied for 2 weeks already, and has survived a carwash already.

Woodie Pics

Pics of the car as it was when i received it

This car has passed emissions with a new knock sensor. So far she averages 21.84 mpg with mixed driving across 300 mi. Since my last fuel calculation, i have replaced the differential fluids with Mobil1 75w90 gear oil, and the engine oil with Mobil1 0w40. She used half a quart already, so i changed the pcv valve. I am hoping to improve the fuel economy with the synthetic fluids. Also, the ATF was overfilled by a good quart. I corrected the fluid level, added a bottle of trans tune, and topped off with synthetic ATF. The shifting seems to be less delayed. It feels like the torque converter lockup doesn't let go on the 2nd gear upshift, then does let go, causing a delay. This seems to be less since adding trans tune, and less rumble with the duty c on tight turning. I plan on flushing the trans with full syn. Also considering a trans in-line filter retrofit, and an external trans coolar as well. The car seems to hunt for timing at highway cruise speeds between 3rd and 4th gear and TC lock. I have new spark plugs to replace, so hopefully that helps with throttle response. I have NGK g-power for the ej25d, 100,000 mi plugs I have replaced the tail lamps with all LED, and all the nterior lights as well. Applied wood grain to the side of the car. may do more on the bottom of the doors. The wood survived a car wash so far. I also have woodgrain steering cover and floor mats. Wood bead seat cushions. I had invented a hardwood floor with bamboo flooring in rich walnut color. This part is almost finished, and retains the spare tire hatch and the tie down bezels.

I am wondering this. I made sure the little washers were not left on the bulbs. The right side lamp, however, may have a short inside the socket or the wires are touching inside. I did swap out the right rear lamp housing, but kept the original pigtail to the car. I did notice, before installing the LED, that sometimes the lamp would go out when the wire was tugged on. I'll have to inspect or swap the pigtail. I'll check the fuses, as i understand if a fuse is popped, one of the circuits will try to find ground thru the other circuit, as the lamp circuits share a common ground harness.

98 legagacy. I had swapped LED's into the tail lamps and rear turns. These are 1157 size bulb (dual filament). I was wunning the parking lamp and the hazard during installation. I had poked some 1156 single filament bulbds in the tailgate lamps, and this makes the brake come on (voltage back feed) Now i notice the marker lamps come on with the brake. My 92 mazda does this (had not inspected) Troubleshoot: The bulbs are oriented correctly in their socket There is a trailer harness and i disconnected that. i had removed all the tail lamp bulbs and it still toes this. I had not checked any fuses as this was later in the evening after dark. I suspect: blown fuse; open ground. The fron tmarkers illuminate more brigtly withthe lights on vs when coming on with the brake

I have done it this way. Open belts FTW

Woodie wagon progress: hardwood floor installation, LED lighing. I am saving pics for last as i am not goingo to show unfinished work! This car is quite the opposite of a TrashWagon, but unoficially it is #16 Possible aftermarket audio retaining the factory head unit and appearance. Man, it would be nice to install the spare tire under the hood so i can use the tire well as a 'smuggler's trunk' like the EA82's.

Mechanically. they are the same.EA82T from 88 and later the same.

picked up hardwood flooring for the back of the executive estate wagon, 2.5% window tint, and wood burl look floor mats. I deceided to go with the darker walnut woodgrain for the exterior to contrast the cold lower portion of the car. I promise pics after today.

What kind of fluid was used? Subaru requires 'extra s' fluid in 80w90 or 75w140 (LSD) for the synchros to work properly. The center diff is viscous, and perhaps it's sticking. I suggest changing with subaru branded oil or equivalent and then go drive in tight circles.

All that considering the reliability, and the 30 hp increase, and all that torque. Can't go wrong with THE MOST RELIABLE SUBARU ENGINE EVER, when compared to engines older, and engines much newer.

#3 phillips

Make sure to burp the iar pocket. IF you seem to constantly have a pocket, or t=you have bubbles rising up as she runs, supect HG faulire. You might get lucky with a heads re torque (modify shortened 17mm socket) and or a kan of k-seal. Otherwise, replacing the gasket is easy enough, slap em on and go (prob. failed from age and corrosion, old coolant)

The fuel pump can be noisey if it is failing or aged, and may vary in pitch when operating the turn indicators. The fuel pump is mounted external to the fuel tank, and will be easy to service. You can replace it with any in-line pump unit, like that for a FORD with dual fuel tanks. If the engine is vibrating at idle, the timing belt may be off a notch. Many You can verify this by removing just the outer belt covers, but will have to take the middle cover out to correct it (many of us leave the belt covers off as it makes inspecting and future service so much easier, and there is little chance for the belt to skip when exposed, and if so, replacing the belt only requires 2 tools with no covers.

How many times did it overheat?. If it weren't for the video, i would suggest piston slapif it went away after warm up, or if it was a slighter sound, suspect the tensioner causing backlash in the timing belt. Defintitely a rod knock. Mine decided to blow a ring land after i gave it some 'PTFE engine guard'

moose knuckle

Paul, you can find me on facebook as well. I do work on sunday, at an oil change place, so there i a chance for you to roll in and shoot the breeze and i can get up close and personal with your car. If you got up here saturday, there is a hog roast block party in the alley. If you were to stay in milwaukee, i might be able to accommodate you between partially finished attic upstairs, or the spare room with the folks down stairs. Actually, there is a tend in the back yard, and i have off street parking. I;ll pm you a phone number to call me. BTW that box of spare timing parts had made my day rescuing a 500 dollar outback limited for parts into the nicest daily driver i have ever owned.

xt fwd struts

use 5w40 or 0w40 oil in the turbo

The woodie 'executive estate' LOB wagon passed emissions today after installing a $100 knock sensor. I also wasted 2/3 if a roll of $15 dollar window tint, because i cut it the wrong side for the quarter window from the outside before install.

I do napa. The napa medium price pads are the same as the oreilly 'premium' pads. and cost less, too. Gofor the medium price always. NAPA will have better professional quality of parts, and can get you stuff that the auto stores will show as "Listed, but not available" I guess between one place ot the other, go for the price with the least retail mark-up. All of your parts come from the same handful of mfg's, but just packaged and branded differently depending on their retail outlet.

I mis-keyed the car during a cold start where she choked and backspun. I thought i may have skipped the belt again. But then she drove home better than ever. We did get cooler weather since i drove it to work. She passed emissions today! I am not trying to overref the engine until i can have the peace of mind of a new timing belt. Opinions on the log tensioner please? I have the original one from the engine, but the one installed is from a random un-known ej22 that came in a box of pull-off parts courtesy of Paul Moosens. My opinion is that i have no issue with ones with 250,000 mi on a non interference ej22e. Your opinions?