MilesFox

Well, there are those who make decisions based on speculation, and those who make decisions based on experience. I brought back my old thread about the topic for further discussion. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=108259 BY the way, i am not endorsing felpro or dismissing OEM. the point of this argument is that peope are educated in what they are shopping for, and can make their choice from that

I am refreshing this thread due to the continuing OEM only suggestions for at least head gaskets, when, continually, we are still getting OEM gaskets with fuji stampings in ej22 composite and ej25d mls engine seal sets. The point of this thread is to see what manufacture of seals you get when you go non-oem for oem you would get NOK seals. typical felpro has national seals, made in canada or mexico, but, depending on the application, you may end up with an OEM part in the box. One example, and exception to the HG rule would be the felpro ea82 set. Felpro is now stamping their own 'perma torque' head gaskets for ea82, as everyone recommends, on the premise that there is no re-torque sequence, and is contradictory to the 'OEM ONLY' rule. BUT, at the same time, with the felpro ea82 set, you are getting OEM valve cover grommets and rubber, oil pump mickey mouse seals, and rear main seal. The easiest way to explain what you get as a mix of mfgs in any one brand is this: Parts vendors and gasket makers will do what it takes to fill a box per application. If fel-pro is making a subaru gasket set, they will stamp out their own cork abnd paper for intake, exhaust, and oil pan. But if the set calls for a part they are not making themselves, they will source the part from the next mfg, and the next, so they can package the whole deal in a box with their brand name. If anyone who is shopping to save dealer markup costs(if they cost too much vs other sources) i recommend the following brands as alternatives, as these are OEM manufacturers NOK seals BOSAL has been real good with ea82 exhaust parts, and the metal/graphite faced gaskets If your big chain auto store shows "listed, but not available" they will not get you the part. The part can be looked up, but they wont go through the vendoe that carries it if it's not in their current sales structures, as they want to sell the in-house brands and the cheap chinese wholesale mfg's. IF that is the case, get a part number, and go to napa, and use the number that napa can order the part for you from the vendor that supplies it. I hope this thread is useful, and i encourage and would appreciate if members here would make note of what comes in their gasket sets, and report them here! NGK ignition and plugs

I forgot to mention you will want the head gasket set with the most recent revision/part number. suppose it would be best to get a part number from subaru dealer, buy you can cross reference that number and go with a different supplier for a better price.

I am going to beat this down one more time and smack everyone with a handle. NO MATTER WHAT YOU GET FOR A BRAND OF GASKETS, OEM'S COME IN THE BOX, BECAUSE SUBARU IS THE ONLY ONE MAKING SUBARU HEAD GASKETS AND ALL OF THE VENDORS SUPPLY THE OEM GASKETS along with their versions of paper and cork. out of all the different brands of auto parts and products, it all comes down to who 's name is selling what part that ultimately come from the same handful of manufacturers. BUY THE MARKETING, OR BUY THE PART

search 'Timing belt check and adjustment' on the usmb or google. search "art of subaru maintenance" on u-tube and watch episodes #5-8

armor all blows. I have used meguiars finally, i dont mind spending the 5 bucks or more for a bottle. I used some on my 86 3door and like the finish, not gresy or residue, and the smell is pleasant, somewhat fruit and cream smelling. Well, since i have my car apart, i have been detailing the back side of all y plastic panels to get the dust off, total inside and out 'hypo allergenec' detail Before i have used wd40 and silicone spray to refresh plastic and rubber bits with no adverse affect. I have used the lexol stuff in a volvo, it's like a lotion for the leather, since it is cow skin.

In regards to body roll, first make sure that none of the swaybar end links are broken.

Wire the money and wll go pick it up for you. madison is 75 miles west of milwaukee. there is another turbo wagon for 500 bucks, but i call deebo on it

That rust is considerably mild compared to typical ea82 fare in the midwest. Have you seen the threads with broken subframes due to rust? dam you aussies with your dry climate, and your un-rustable cars!

put it on the airbox side of the MAF and make it come through the fender. otherwise, you are just cutting up a car to install a random piece. what i suggest would actually serve a purpose. between the MAF and the engine would probably screw up the helmholz resonation.

throw the t belt covers away, if you want to do the oil pump at=d water pump later. DO remove the cam pulleys to remove the inner covers. You can do the cam seals by removing the cam retainer, do the seals on a bench, and re-install. Loosen the pulley bolts before removing the belts, and tighten after installing the belts. Don't forget about the 360 deg crank rotation! the valve cover seam represents the notch on the belt covers, when removed. the dot on the passenger side cam will line up to the hard edge on the valve cover when you are at TDC for the ifn timing. You will have no chance of mis-aligning the ignition timing if you do not remove the disty.

use the clutch and flywheel for the trans you are using. the xt6 flywheel is lighter, and the PP is stronger, but ther than that, the disc is the same, and everything else fits any other ea82 the same

the felpro HG's that i got, once again, are genuine oem units with fuji stampings. I agree with the burping procedure. Easy enough to fool a novice at subarus, and a-typical of the operation of other vehicles. Plus, an NEW thermostat may take a litle more temp to pop open until it breaks in. Run the heat full blast, as this helps move the coolatn throught the rest of the system, and move any air out. Be patient. If you had a bad head or gasket, the temp spike would be more severe and more abrupt. hold the revs at 1500 while filling, if need be, while heat is on full hot. generally the 2nd fan only comes on with the AC

check that the timing belt did not jump. a jumpy tah would be conducive to slack or backlash in the timing belt

go ahead to use up what is otherwise a spare part, but either way, it's no improvement, if not worse

tell everyone to go ( ) themselves and quit spending money.

I saw this car in person. It blew my mind. If i remember my history right, this car, less the engine, is now one of tomrhere's mix-n-match cars

Maybe someone can bring it to me this time.......

supposing this is an ea82, the whole knuckle and axle fits the same. anything from the ther car swaps. If the donor car is not turbo, the axles will fit the trans side(23 splines) swap on the rear coilovers form the 2wd donor, and get a little lift if it's an ea81, only the axle nut and hub would apply fwd manual for ea81 are always 5 spd

th4e vacuum canister is supplied by a skinny hose along the passenger strut tower, and plugs into the intake. the hose is adapted from one size at the intake to skinnier to the vac can. it's easy to knock this hose loose and not know it. you shoyld find a loose hose under the hood

I go by the overall length of the y pipe does the job, the rest is muffler and tailpipe. But, i have also ran with open ports and no exhaust. The siamesed exhaust ports would create enough velocity to not burn valves like other engines

hat you are saying may be true with hubs to solid rotors, whereas what i am saying may be true for vented rotors. I did tis once using an 87 brat hub on an 88 dl, no fitment issues.

the tophats for the rear will be slightly different with outback/forester struts. you can most likely use your existing strut toos in the new strut. Or you can slot the holes to allow for a 2nd gen strut top, if you are getting complete struts w/ springs/tops

I am talking about enough heat to dry out any moisture inside the splines, sweat it out, and the heat helps penetrant move into the splines. If at all you cannot get one end of the axle off, you can disassemble that end of the axle, rebuild, and reboot. If you got a new axle, just remove the cup from one end, and install the guts and boot on the remaining axle cup on the spline

Try shoving a 2.5 inch ile in the tube frame