MilesFox

plentyof heat and PB blaster, 3 lb hammer. I have gone as far as removing the entire rear sub assemnly just to remove axles from the diff.

You can get new hardware at the napa or the dealer. You can use a hub from a ea81 heavier casting but same dimensions.

any will do. The wrx and turbo legacy trans is a hydraulic clutch and has a specific PP and TB. the disc is the same as any 5spd 4wd/awd. the n/a trans from first and 2nd gen legacy and impreza have cable action, and are 3.9 gear. Use the clutch set that goes to the cable trans. any of these trans bolts up, so long as you have the right clutch and parts related to the trans itself.

I am reading this and am assuming you are referring to 1st and 2nd gen ej22e heads? and if so, does it use the composite or MLS head gaskets?

you are most likely worrying about something that is not a problem, based on speculation out of lack of experience.

the splines stripped out because the nut was loose. with the nut being loose, you may have compromised the wheel bearings. THE NUT IS LOOSE AND BECOMES LOOSE AGAIN BECAUSE THE FLAT WASHER IS ON BACKWARDs. i bet you a dollar that is your problem the flat washer is slightly concave, with the concave part towards the hyb, and convex side to the nut, or if you look at the edge of the washer, the 'big' end goes to the nut.

Try unbolting this metal piece and replacing with stainless. If you really want to get into it, you can pull up the rear carpet and pop out a panel to get to the fuel sender. you will have to drill out spot welds, and pop rivet to install. the nuts will be 5mm. If you are really ambitios, you can pull the lines from the font of the fule tank, and drop it more, or get into pulling the whole thing. There are fuel lines in the passenger rear cargo hold. There is a metal cover that comes off and there are 3 fuel lines, and the fuel sender connector. Inspect this are afor rust as well, pull the grommet and get inside the frame.

if you have rust holes in the back, air will draft in from the rear of the car and out of the front windows if they are down. Same for dusty dirt roads. The best thing is fan on full and all windows up, fresh air from outside. Do you have an exhaust leak? sometimes subaru mufflers settle and the tailpipe melts against the bumper. or you have an exhaust leak at the muffler flange or seam.

replace the cap. the rubber part is probably degenerated, or the spring is weak. Its possible the rad itself is bent where the cap seats. Try replacing the cap first. if it persists, check for bubbles in the radiator when the car is running, as this may be the beginning of a HG failure

there were ea81 and ea82 in america from 85-89. to disambiguate, you can try searching for 1990 LOYALE, as these are the same part/design/dimension, but you eliminate the possibility of getting an ea81 part instead.

I am in the process of sourcing aftermarket bushings. There are part numbers for 'super pro poly' bushings if you can find a vendor. NAPA carries oem replacement bushings, and if you want to try to source urethane bushings, you might get them from energy suspension if you have dimensions. It's worth trying to find if youare going through the labor. you should be able to get apart number from the dealer if you supply your VIN

The ea82 car has a fixed alignment. the only thing that is adjustable is the tie rods. The only other way to get any camber adjustment is to use an aftermarket strut top that has the slotted camber adjustment. There is no wat to adjaut camber where the strut meets the knuckle, since it is a sleve and a pinch bolt versus 2 camber bolts like a legacy would have. the best that can be done for rear alignment is shims on the 3 bolts that hold the outer part of the trailing arm. so if you go to an alignemt shop, make sure you are paying for a 2 wheel alignment instead of a 4 wheel, and since its only the tie rods, make sure you get a book time that reflects only that.

I have the little cube thing. if the piston is difficult to turn, grab it with channel pliers and give it a turn to free it up, and then use the cube/pliers/what have you. any method will work so long as you do not damage the rubber boots.

grab the whole motor! most of this car will swap with eachother, save for the obvious things like taillights and headlights. you can drop in a 2.2 engine by using the 1.8 intake

1. Make sure the thermostat opens before checking your final coolant level. the read can be full and the block dry when you first add coolant. 2. there is a set screw somewhere on the TB. normal idle should be 750-850 rpm when warm 3. you will get this is the crankcase breaths, condensation in the oil, humid weather , et. THIS MAY BE A CLUE that you intake gaskets may be failing, considering your symptoms, and high mileage.

the trick will be to jack the car up from one side. this will get you up to get the trans out without the whole car being that high you will want the 3 ton jack. scissor jacks and the little stupid larin awlmart/autozone jacks just wont cut it.

leave the ea82 turbo as it is, or with mild mods, or chuck it and get an ej22, but don't break the trans. sweet and interesting find, though! in wisconsin, one can procure a title with a bill of sale.

I would agree that a car would go through a quart in an oil change cycle. just because the oil was changed, doesnt mean it's full after some miles. The engine will naturally breathe out the oil through the PCV, blowby, and whatever misting and seeping.

new subaru oem filters are made by honewell out of canada. go to napa and opt for wix, napa silver or gold. purolator, pennzoil, fram, may as well be re-badges of the same parts maufacturer.

/just go there, we, as the Subaru Alliance, should get some recognition for bringing folks from out of state, as the don miller meet would otherweise be the same 5 or 6 people in the madison regional forum. I firmly believe, although we don't have fancy new cars, would be the TRUEST of subaru enthusiasts if we roll up as such.

intake gaskets is something to consider with the high adle

I bet on the wires themselves. if they are the oem original wires, 60k is long enough on them. if you read about misfire codes often enough, the general consensus is plug wire related, and that subarus are finicky about cheap wire sets versus NGK oem sets. go for the NGK brand, and use dielectric grease on the boots. this should cure you, and the problem is always wires and never plugs.

sounds like ball joints to me. be careful not to break off the pinch bolt. youmay have th spread the tabs to get it apart