MilesFox

the lines should be going from the side of the trans to the furewall on the driver side. thse lines did not have to come off, unless you removed the trans. the 4wd is vacuum operated by a push-pull diaphragm, whose vacuum is controlled by an on-off solenoid

sweetness!

utra greay, or any generic 'grey' compound. anearobic

the green/red wire sould be with your illuminaion, both for the stereo and the ashtray.

wheel bearings. this you have not considered yet.

the door chimer has a p9nk connector, and is located on the right side of the dash, just to the left of the steering wheel, between the stereo

I find the subaru is happiest at mid-rpm. It almost makes more sense to accelerate mre quickly to your desired cruise speed, and then from there, feather the pedal to maintain. I do notice, however, that i get better fuel economy cruising at 70 mph than at 60 mph, since the rpms are in the sweet spot. one thing to consider is a vacuum gauge, so you can watch the laod on your pedal as you are driving. I try to practice hypermile techniques such as minimal braking, and carrying momentum as much as possible, as if driving a large truck with no brakes.

Yo my buddy is looking for a pair of starion front wheels if you have them.

If you use rear struts from a front wheel drive model, it will give you a little more lift being longer than the original on the 4wd. struts for 1985 and 86 are adjustable

emissions sticker on the hood will tell you. by year alone, its an ej22 2.2 most obvious, look under the alternator and an EJ22 will be cast into the front of the engine block. All subaru engines so far have their designation cast into the block(ej22, ej25, ea82, ea81, er27. eg33, etc.) with the "EJ" being the engine class, and the "22" being the displacement

i would say the buzzing, or more like a rapid clicking is normal. my 86 3door(hitachi carb) does it anytime the key is on and the car is not running.

there are height sensors in the rear struts. sometimes you can fix a leak by wiggleing the air line fittings at their connections. you can try greasing the o rings with silicone grease.

I am swapping 5 lugs into my 86 3door, and will be converting to 4wd/full time with either an ej22 or, maybe, the er27 i have laying around. So far i have a harness, but no ej22 engine. I did, however swap the 5 lugs into the rear with the 4wd parts. less the diff. This part is finished, and the car is now driveable with 5 lugs in the back, 4 lugs in the front, and FWD. Not finished, but i can drive my car for the moment. next step is either a set of 23 spline doj's to use on the xt6 axles, or a full time 4wd trans, whichever comes first. I do have the interior ripped out to combat rust. that is the status of my project, while drivable.

This would be an identity code. i dont know what it is off hand, but it is listed in the haynes book. it will tell you if the car is spfi, mpfi, mt, at, lower 48 or cali. it will correlate with the donor car the ecu came from

yes they do change over each side. bonus tip: left and right axles fit the same. bonus bonus tip, you can use outback and forester springs/struts for more lift.

You could get some tune out of a pipe and a jet kit. some of these chinese bikes are cloned honda designs. Yours may be a 139 qmb engine, i think from the honda aero scooters in 80 and 150 cc displacements. If your scoot gives you trouble, you may be ale to swap genuine honda parts to it. i have a 50cc bersion that i made a head gasket from a pabst blue ribbon can, and put a .090 jet in it, and cut off the muffler and made a sea foam can muffler. I notched the variator for more gear, and lost 2 of the weights for quick variation. Mine will do 40 towards 45, although it takes a little time past 35. but this thing did 27 mph to begin with. I would think your bike is capable of 80mph or better with gearing mods

1995 and 96 is ok, same ej22(e) with obdII, 2nd gen body(mechanically the same), but not 2.5 MLS gaskets

"transmission is shot" you can most likely clean the governor valve and she would be good to go. secret subaru trick to get cars for cheap! you can make this car drive for the price of a can of carb claner and an hour of your time. you can consider a swap as well,; a manual trnasmission is all bolt-on if you hva all the assocaiated parts

I would recommend: Throttle cable may have stuck. do the lubrication, look for frays. freak occurence. bad idle and starting may be a bad coolant temp sensor, compoinded by low coolant and overheat, may be stretched and innacurate. Replace the water pump definitely if if it is leaking. It may just be the water pipe o-ring instead. the o-ring is easy to fix, one 10mm bolt is all it takes. Otherwise, do the water pump and cam seals, timing belts, all at the same time if you have all the parts. the high idle can be compounded by a bad coolant temp sensor, and the car thinks it's cold, and holds the IAC open. possible stuck IAC due to carbon. Try sea foam in the IAC itself. If you have the resources, pull the engine and do all the sals, get the gasket kit. Beware that the overheat may preclude a bad head gasket. just get the entire gasket set, and take the time to refresh the engine.

Where is Post Falls?

If you can get the car fro around the 500 dollar mark, then a swap is a worthy option. Waht year is your donor car? First, if you get the car for a great price, you can troubleshoot it, mayne it is good to go with a simple fix. If the timing belt is broken, the engine is trashes. if not, then maybe a sensor. This caor would be obdII, so you can pull codes. I cannot imagine whay a car would not run abruptly unless it is a failed timing belt, or a bad crank sensor. i wold say go with your intentions. try to make the car run, if not, do the swap with the car you have. you might be able to source a donor engine or part from another car, make it run, then retire your current ride. Just don't put yourself out of a car in between!

pitch that tranny at me, i'll use it. no need to throw it away. general disorder's advice should be 'get a newer car' instead of 'throw away your ea82'

fwd turbo GL, turbo XT, fwd gl-10. any FWD TURBO 85-94. one clue to spot from a distance is the rubber 'door protectors' on the rear doors, as they came on turbos, if you are trying to spot a turbo at the junker

j style fuses should plug in place of the fuse links

You may grow fond of the car. It is essentially bulletproof with the right subaru specific maintenance. these cars go 300-400,000 miles in good maintenance. If you know this car for a long time, and it has been a reliable car, keep it going! If you dont have rust or road salts to contend with, consider it an infinite car.