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MilesFox

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Everything posted by MilesFox

  1. Thanks for the advice. I just bolted on the knock sensor. I have read thatit can be relocated to the bellhousing if it is too sensitive. I am driving the car with its existing gas plus fill up on top of the existing fuel, and a con of octane booster. I have about 150 miles on the tank before changing the knock sensor, mostly highway. The rest will be mixed driving. Not bad for half a tank so far, i estimate the range to be between 275 and 325 as usual with subaru avg 20 mpg. Perhaps better than i expect having functioning cats and o2's. Ok, i will consider the standard NGK v power plugs that i have always used. Good to know with the MAF. I'll swap the intake with the one off my dead legacy. It just looks better. I have a netbook if i can get reinstall an OS for it, i'll consider a tactrix cable to monitor. Can the ECU be reflashed?
  2. So i got this car with a skipped timing belt. I got it to run with spare parts. Car runs great, as i had replaced the knock sensor. The brakes need service, as i suspect stuck caliper slides. EJ25D, 4EAT, 132,500 mi. All leather interior, 'Limited' trim with premium sound, am/fm/WB/cd/cassette, telescoping antenna (doesn't retract, but extends) (pics to come) The car has weird body work where the rear quarter had been painted, and the lower gold portion had been painted over the decal and the door moulding, as well as the front bumper insert. Project considerations: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/147895-ej25d-dohc-tuning-qs/?hl=ej25d Woodgrain wrap for the old 'woodie' look. I would like to find 15: steelies and install baby moons or beauty rings with whitewall tires. LED interior and exterior lighting Maybe a CB and dual whip antenna, and roof mounted baja lights Strut spacer lift is a consideration. SPT intake parts if they will fit an ej25d Hack the power windows to work with ACC key position Hack the TCU for 'power mode' and manual override for the duty c solenoid with a 3 position switch (4wd lock, normal, FWD lock) and perhaps a torque converter lockup override as well Replica header I would consider cams. Waiting for HG to fail, for which i mat consider frankenmotor Woodgrain themed interior treatments, such as steering wheel, floor mats, bezels. I may go as far as removing the 'leather' door panel inserts and making real wood stained and lacquered to match walnut burl bezels. Consideration for replacing the rear cargo floor panels with finished plywood or hardwood flooring. Or make wooden runners like an old pickup truck. Vinyl wrap or custom make stained wood roof rail runners Long shot future considerations: WRX front crossmember and ej25d heads on 2.2 block for boosted application (if this will work with the existing ECU. maybe manual trans along with This car is so sweet, it makes me feel like i need to wear a shirt and tie and park it downtown in front of skyscrapers 'executive estate'. This is by far the nicest car i have had, it makes me feel important, my Bourgios car. I will take some pics today to share with you. This will be my 'build thread' for this car.
  3. Yeah, the ecu won't know different if the EGR is present as long as the solenoid itself is there.
  4. Late model engines call for 0w30 and 0w20 oil for fuel economy standards. But there are reports of premature ring failure. Check your oil often. Personally, my opinion (being a lube tech) you should consider 0w40 oil as subarus of past recommend 10w40 wt for summer or heavy duty, and the 0w40 will flow well at startup and cold climates, but offer better protection at temp vs 20 or 30 wt. Check the owners manual for oil viscosities, ans your climate should dictate the oil viscosity, not the factory fill for the emissions label.
  5. You could swap the ej25 harness onto the ej22 intake, and carry over the EGR solenoid, plug it in, and cap off the vac lines. this would trick the ecu as far as the forester is conerned.
  6. If you cut off the muffler and use couplers and clamps, cut it flush to the muffler as it is hard to make proper fitment if you cut it too short, as the bend is right there and is not perfectly round anywhere in the bend.
  7. As i have posted, i have a rescue 98 Legacy Outback Limited that survived a skipped timing belt. The car has 132,455 mi. Although i have messid with a few ej25d's, did head gaskets on one, this is the first one that i will be driving as my other example has ej22e heads on it (98 forester) 1. what is compression for 1998, and what octane fuel should i use. The car ran much better with octane boost until i could replace the knock sensor. 2. Does the car have 100,000 mi plugs from the factory? Are platinum plugs appropriate. I suspect the plugs have not been changed at all. NGK v power or copper for this one? Car runs great, but it seems like it should have a little more snap. 3. Even with the new knock sensor, the car does seem to hunt around for timing. I used a universal replacement with a universal pigtail from the NAPA Echlin brand. I could have ordered in ALTROM (oe supply paraut) but i needed the part right away to clear emissions. 4. Is there, or can there be an ECU flash update, as if there had been any TSB's or firmware updates since the time of manufacture? Also considering a few other things with this engine: I had changed the oil with Mobil1 0w40 'european formula'. I somewhat wish i had used mobil's 'turbo diesel' 5w40 in regards to the flat tappet cams, but the 0w40 does have good ZDDP content (1000 ppm phos, 1100 ppm zinc, whereas the 5w40 is i believe 1200) and is more than the 5w30 and 10w30 blends. This engine has the 'football' air intake with a snorkus on it, and one near the MAF. I don't like it as it looks ugly and is in the way of poking around under the hood. Would there be any harm with retrofitting an ej22 intake without the football? Everything else seems to be in good tune, with regard to a replace mentrear cat and catback exhaust pipe, no codes after clearing the knock sensor.
  8. Good to know, gary. The kits at napa for 300 are gates as well with NSK bearings. I should put an all new belt system as i am running used parts withthe existing belt that shows signs of age. I am broke at thhe moment, as i just dropped 100 bucks on a knock sensor, which cleard my code and the car runs great, totally worth it to pass emissions for 2 years. I may park this car for winter once i get my forester together as the body has potential, just a rust spot on the wheel arch, but subframe is absolutely rust free
  9. Inspect the pinouts for the fuel harness. It comes thru the body under the rear seat thru a grommet, then there is a hatch behind the rear seat under the carpet where it plugs into the tank. 2 connectors in all.
  10. I have been impressed with the 'made in japan" 3 dollar PCV aftermarket. Avoid the $2/99 and it is very cheap in comparison. I got my bets part at NAPA from the Altrom (oem supply) brand. Do this if it costs les s than the dealer
  11. Check for loose or failing driveshaft u-joint. Check the hanger bushing on the riear diff. In this order.Check the rear diff fluid.Go under the car and try to turn the driveshaft by hand feeling for play.
  12. I was surprised to see this one had a log tensioner, as my 98 forester has a flapper tensioner. I can appreciate the ej25d. I may become fond of it the same as ea82t's. Once i replace the knock sensor, i can appreciate the full glory of it. One bonus is, that with the replacement of the WP, the volume of coolant has been replaced. Hopefully i can avoid the pattern HG failure by keeping up with the cooling system. Although it has a new radiator (collision damage), it is only a single row where a dual row would be be appreciated. The mechanic at the shop where i got the car couldn't comprehend the possibility of the valves colliding with eachother. He stated he works on these all the time, but begged to argue with me when i offered my speculations. He did, however, agree that i might be lucky with re-hanging the belt. I hope he wasn't the dame mechanic that replaces a water pump but leave the belt and idlers past due with while at it, for the sake of replaceing the radiator from collision (belt and idlers cost too much)
  13. I picked up a 98 Outback Limited sight unseen for skipped timing belt. I got the car because i have a spare motor, or it could have been parts for 3 other subarus between a block for the forester, suspension for the imprezaa, and body parts for the legacy. My dude offeed up for the leather seats, and i put the difference up for the whole car. Once i got it home, i could see that the passenger cams were out of phase, about 1/4 turn from each other. The motor turned and had compression on the driver side, and no bind. I took off the middle cover to see the idler sprocket had failed bearings, and this allowed the belt to skip. THANKS TO PAUL MOOSENS, with a box of random parts he sent me, i was able to replace the log tensioner, the toothed cog and an idler, and the tensioner pulley, and all is well. The water pump and radiator had been replaced, buit the prior mechanic left the orioginal belt and idlers in place. He must have been cheap or unskilled with subaru, but his mistake made good for a lucky score. For 550 bucks, i have a $2200 car that runs sweet, working AC too!. The car already has replacement exhaust and 2nd cat. It needs a knock sensor, and a can of octane boost helps it run smooth for the time being. I am buying out the other guy's half and keeping the seats, as the interieor is near immaculate (non-smoker) and the carpets are nice other than road salt crust wjere the driver side floor mat was missing. More to come with this car......
  14. I suppose try to poke it ouy with a stick, dig around in there if you can and break it down. Perhaps use synthetic oil that will break it down as you drive. Put some 0w40 in it.
  15. My guess is the baffle plate (oil separator) is all gunked up. Pull the hose off the crank vent and take a look inside for sludge buildup. PErhaps do an engine flush and continue with high quality oil. Even the conventional oil nowadays far exceeds the standards for oil back in the 90's. You said grandma driving, with that, i vode sludge buildup. Best to just replace thePCV as although the little jangly bit inside will jiggle, it may not be seating properly if there is buildup on it. 5w30 oil is not recommended.
  16. Mike Cutrano at the fabled 'Subaru Heaven" salvage yard had told me before he swears by straight 30 oil. I Took his word for it. But nowadays, with synthetic oil and becoming knowledgeable from being in the oil change industry, I am Believing in 40 wt for multi-viscosity oils.
  17. Thank you Coxy, as you information correletes with 'energy conserving' oil and the use of 5w30 in later engines. In your opinion, should 5w30 be continued, or moved to a heavier weight for the low tension rings pack engines?
  18. Might i ask what blend of brand of synthetic oil were you using? Which brand or blend of Syn were you using?
  19. 1. Fix the first one, what's wrong with it? Swap the gl-10, because ea82t. 2. Build one as stock and track/swap/mod the other 3. Don't scrap them and sell them. Let someone rescue them. Take the money and go buy a new subaru
  20. Long interval maybe likely. Dirty or failed PCV. What i would presume is the synthetic oil is washing out all the carbon that has built up over the life of the engine, on the piston faces, skirts, and rings, the valve guides, and in areas where carbon will condense on the cooler parts of the engines. This is not to get into myths about synthetic oil vs coonventional, but rather what was the factory fill weight for these generations of engines during their time. For your sake, the head gaskets probably had failed from overall age of the vehicle, regardless of miles, and wheter or not the age of the coolant is old or hasn.t been changed every 3 years. If you are repairing it, you may as well continue with the synthetic oil. How were the carbon deposits on the piston faces and cc's? The synthetic oil does not degrade the same as convention aiol does. However, contaminants do collect in the oil regardless of syn or conventional, as this is due to the mechanical condition of the engine/and or operating envioronment/ maintenace habits to begin with. Even conventional oil by today's standards far exceed the standoards for oil at the time of manufacture for these engines. Current standard for conventional oil is actually a semi synthetic oil, and for example, in 2000 and later toyotas, the drain schedule is 6 mo and 5000 mi with 5w30
  21. Please can i have anyone's opinions about using 40 wt oil over 30 wt, for 5w, 10w, and 0w.
  22. 2012 TSB in regards to oil consumption from subaruoutback.org reposted from NASIOC: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/104-gen-4-2010-2014/97018-oil-consumption-2013-2-5-a-2.html#post1019434
  23. This is good to know! 40 wt oil it is. At the oil shop i should ask them to supply 5w40 as the only 40 wt oils we offer is 14w40 for diesel (mobil delvac 1300 super) and mobil 1 0w40. The mobil 1 can be too expensive for customers to consider, and 10w 40 may be too heavy for winter operation in Wisconsin climate. I suppose, for late model subaru with FA engines, that come with 0w20 and 0w30, i should suggest 0w40. I hope that going to 40 wt doesn't affect the warranty, Because this: http://www.nj.com/news/index.ssf/2014/07/faulty_piston_rings_in_subarus_could_lead_to_engine_failure_suit_filed_in_nj_says.html#incart_river
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