MilesFox

I can only imagine what you mean in terms way outside of your intended contectt! Please tell me there is no squatting involved... *quick google search.....* Is this a supercharger?

turbo or non? order belts for a non ps, non ac, 1986 1.8 gl ohc. There are 3 belt sizes. you will be using the shortest of them. The shortest belt is the one already on the outside pulley. just have 2, and you can get a dual pulley for the alternator. The trick will be mounting the alternator with no ac. You may have to salvage the ac bracket and use a threaded rod for the round compressor(outboard alt), or use the square compressor's mount(inboard alt) easiest thing to do is find the alt bracket from a non ac model, and retrofit. use the shortest belt

Ok then i misread that. Put the spfi heads on the mpfi block. basically, swap the heads, keep the ones that fit tha manifold, use whatever block you can find

Brakes are dual-diagonal. The hill holder holds pressure to the rear wheels whenever the clutch and rear brake are depressed. Try holding down the clutch pedal when bleeding thebrakes. If you have a front caliper off, bleed the rear brake on the opposite side at the same time, starting from the rear. bleed all the way around RR, LF, LR, RR, and try pressing the clutch when do ing hte rear. look for leaks at the hill holder.

what i am saying is there is one ground for the front, and one ground from the rear, accodring the the car's harness. what i am saying is one negative from the front channel, and one from the rear is not used. it does not matter if its left or right, just front and back, because ground is common. you could just tie both rear grounds into the same wire for the rear, and same for the front.

Investigate the coolant temp sensor, located behind the intake manifold on the passenger side. This has to do with the function of the IAC, depending on how warm the ECu thinks the engine is. The ecu may be thinking the engine is cold, holding the IAC open

I may be wrong, but i think it would be up in the dash behind the glove box. Somewhere in there or behind the stereo console, in that general area

Chances are, the radio itself is grounding the acc circuit from the key. The cooling fan would run in acc, when it is staill warm. The green wire behind the radio on the car's harness is your hot all the time. The radio should have a ground strap to the chassis, or at least ground thru the antenna The constant wire is on fuse 5 clock/horn/hazard. With the common ground of the speakers, and using an aftermatket stereo connectoed to the car's speaker harness, all 4 positive leads will be used for each speaker, but inly one ground for the front, and one ground for the rear are used, leaving 2 unused speaker grounds from the aftermarket radio. These unused wires should not be connected, or grounded to the chassis. This should ground the radiao if no ground is present. is your fade/balance out of whack?

i would pull the engine, sine removit the trans will be much easier. plus you can have the opportunity to do service to the engine. and yes, you can use the same axle if your donot trans is from a non turbo.

I have never seen a 3ddor with a sunroof. Let alone the maplite and door panels. This coar would be a gl-10 if it had a digi dash, which would swap in. That car is too freakin sweet. i'm jealous. Now i must chop a sunroof into mine!

I believe you need 10 posts to do pm's and post pics. not hard to do. This board is very welcoming! don't forget to search, as some will say:lol:

go with belts in this priority subje3ct to availability and price: Gates, Goodyear gatorback, Continental. avoid cheap chinese for seals go with NOK made in japan. national seal made in mexico. The better vendors will provide the cam retainer 0-rings which are necessary if you pull them. may just do the dealer for tensioners, but can always be done any time as you wish, if coverless go with the middle price at least for the water pump. a rebuild oem unit may be better than a used chinese unit. if you do the oil pump, get the mickey seal, as well as the inner o-ring. there is also a shaft seal. You may find a kit with all 3, or at least 2, but sometimes individually. If there are parts listing conflicts with ea81's with your car being a 1985, try doing your parts references to a 89 gl or a 90 loyale. OHC is your key word at the parts counter, not to be confused with OHV(ea81). Knowing this will help your parts copunter to know what to look for

yeah, if you have the parts, whip. snap. bang. and we're done. Give me a day or 2's heads up, and search the napaonline for the state store. you might get accoutn #10 price(tech price) if you mention about the 'subaru guys'

Do a waber carb, change the muffler or exhaust pipe, and bump the timing up a few degrees. Consider a cam if you can open the case. you can go into swapping ej22's and ecu's, but the 4spd 4wd is no match for 130 hp ej22, but you can swap in 5 spds oldschoolers around here have gotten 110 hp with their ea81's with cam and custom exhaust, weber. search the archives for this info, try' hatch patrol' for search

The general consensus woude state that the ej25d engine is prone to HG failure(poor coolant maintenance) and is an interference engine if the timing belt lets go. Generally, for cheap, if a car has an ej25d that pukes, an ej22 of the same generation is swapped in, non interference, not as prone to HG with older head design. If you do the swap, use new timing belt parts, and bench build the head gaskets with the updated design before installing, and you will be MUCH better for longevity

how much of this wrx driveline do you have? if you get a turbo crossmember from an ea82 t car, this will allow you to use the ej20g. if you have xt6 control arms, you can use the wrx knuckle and axle/strut(use ea82 tophat or slot the holes in the tower) you can hybrid the trans mount to use the wrx trans you may be able to swap the wrx rear crossmember into the 3door. I am contempl;ating using a 91 ss legacy turbo rear subframe in my 3door, at least to mock up. you can go pretty backward compatible with this car, and in the end, you can have an sti spec in a body lighter than any GC impreza. hey, visit us in the 'new milwaukee thread" on DI for you rold school ea82-ness, because we roll old-school:banana:

put the dual port heads on the single port's block. the blocks are the same, other than the single port will have a 9.0 compression, where the mpfi non turbo has 9.5, and the turbo has 7.7

I put a good 10,000 mi on my 88 gl sedan with q blown headgasket. I drove an ea81 back and forth 150 miles each way with a blown headgasket. I drove the same ea81 with NO coolant for 45 miles, sop hot that the oil was cooking. I put on new HG's with no machining as long as yopu do nopt have coolant in the oil, you might get by with a can of block sealer. otherwise, rin with the rad cap loose, heat on, adn add water/coolant when the heat goes cold. The NAPA on state has ea82 gaskets in stock, because of my purchases, they keep them as a stock item. as long as you have nopt cooked your motor so bad, we can fix it. try the block seal first to buy some time, using clean water to apply the k&w products. Otherwise, get the parts, and we can do the HG's within 6 hours withour hands tied behind our backs and blindfolded. Scott has a spare ea82 laying arounhd from a parted 88 wagon, maybe he can loan you the lump or core echange it. The 88 was spfi, so you will be going up with compression. some folks will tell you to ditch the ea82, as the general consensus seems to be with the advent of plentiful ej22's Replace the gaskets with fresh coolant, and you will be good for a long time. How hot did she get:? coolant loss? lose heat? hot all at once, or gradually? maybe your water pump is bad. i have used spares, iuf i can find them, but may as well get a new one at the same time maybe the radiator is corroded and old, inefficient. feel for cold spots when she is warmed up get the long shaft 110 mm water pump for your car. good luck, and i will lend my help if you want to repair it.

I have a design for the carrier bearing that is universal between ea81 and ea82 bodys. It can be built from flat steel pieces from the hardware store. tke a 12 inch long 2 inch wide lenght of 1/8 thick steel, and drill 2 holes 10 inches from eachother on center. get a 1/4 inch thick piece of 1 inch wide steel, and make 2 6 inch lengths. drill a hole in the last inch. bolt these strips to the carrier. if you see on the carrier bearing, one tab is offset from the other. ne strip will overlap your main piece, and the other will underlap. weld this up while bolted to the carrier. install this assembly with the driveshaft, and butt it up to the body. drill your holes using the assembly as a jig. the holes will come through the floor between the front seat rail and the trans tunnel. use bolts with 2" wide washers from the top, and locknuts on the bottom. The washers will deform to the corner of the seat rail and trans tunnel, securing the head so you can torque up the nut from underneath. this would be the only iventive part of the operation. for the diff hanger, there are holes stamped into the body lready, jus drill through them as their location will be correct for the diff mount. Feel free to ask me questions, as i have converted from fwd 5spd to 4wd 5spd, fwd At to 4wd 5spd, and 4wd at to 4wd 5spd. I have done 5 conversions, and am working on a 6th.

the easiest direct thing to do is just swithc up the steering column as a unit. ny of the airbag wiring has a yellow harness. as long as the battery is disengaged, and you dont cut any wires, you will have no issues with safety regarding the airbag

one more thing, i overlooked your car being FWD. you will need the rear suspension assembly for your swap, which has the rear diif, diff mount, and 4wd trailing arms and rear axles. drill some holes for the rear diff hanger, and fabricate a mount for the carrier bearing. Like i said, if you have a whole donor car, this is the way to go no need to change the ecu or anything else. although you will need to drill 4 holes in the trunk and maket he carrier mount, there are no modifications required to the body to mount everything else.

plug the vacuum line that goes to the AT and call it a day.

broke the alternator belt? look under the hood. everything went dead because the battery ran out. the power steering went stiff beause it is not being driven....by a broken belt.

I have a whole steering column with airbag and key. came from a 95 legacy wagon. make an offer that includes shipping. if you tackle this yourself, i suggest drop the steering column, remove the column covers, and try to slot the heads of the bolts with an angle grinder so you can unscrew them.

its a noise canceller for the radiao, to prevent humming. one end goes to positive, the other end grounds to body. you can remove it if you like, but you might be listening to yhe alternator in your radio