MilesFox

The fuel pump needs to see a crank signal to operate. You can also hardwire it to a toggle, or to acc or even the coil itself. Teh fuel pump can ground to the body. This is a safetey issue, though, that in the event of an accident, the fuel pump will still pump if the motor is not runing(and on fire, upside down, people inside, etc) If you are using a carbureted ea81, then you will need a carb fuel pump. you can buy a generic aftermarket in-line for within 50 bucks at most auto stores. using an mpfi pump with a carb will blow fuel past the needle valve. If the car;s original harness is intact, and the distributor is connected to the coil, then the tachometer should be working, and the fuel pump should work by theory. you are going to have to find a way to trick the mpfi ecu to see a crank signal, since it is expecting a signal from an optical distributor. otherwise, the simplest approach is to tie it in to on with run. Perhaps you can retrofit the fuel pump control from the ea81

tech term would be universal jount, hence the U. I bet this is your problem. The part and design is similar to toyota, pressed and staked in. find a shop that does toyota. I believe even a toyota u-joint cross references as the same part. if you are into a slavage part, all the u-joints are contained in the rear half of the driveshaft. you can replace that from an AT or an MT car of the same platform. to remove the drivehaft, undo the nut side of the bolts, ans the head side is held stationary by the casting of the yokes. take the driveshaft out, and if the noise is gone, that would be your culprit. have it rebuilt or exchange it at a salvage yard good luck

nope. you must use 15's since the turbo has the 2 piston calipers.

no, you will need one for a turbo/mpfi. the short 105mm shaft versus the spfi 110 mm shaft. you can use an spfi water pump, so long as you have the right pulley to go with it, but only if you convert all of the pulleys yo v belts instead of flat belts, and the xt/mpfi motor did not ever have the long water pump, and therefore the right pulley for it would not exist.

once you cut off the head of the bolt, the torque will be released, and the remaining shank should just turn out by hand

find a disty from a turbo model as it will have a D shape shaft, and the rotor will turn without the screw, as long as it doesn't raise up off the shaft. plug and play disty, if the pigtail connector is different, the pigtail is swappable

dealer installed option, standalone unit

Headgaskets issues are cause by overheats, and do not occur on their own like the newer model subarus. Overheats are duel to lack of cooling system maintenance, either old coolant, old water pump, corroded radiator, neglected hoses/blowouts/leaks, due to no maintenance the ea82 will last over 300,000 miles on its own if it's not cooked

another 200,00k 26-28 mpg yes turbos requre a bit more maintenance, non turbo is dead simple weak points are the timing belts every 60,ooo miles, although they can last longer. due to age, the radiator may need attention. the rest of the car is simple to maintan, and parts are interchangable between 85-94 gl/dl/xt(alcyone vortex)rxII and loyale

1ts a 14mm nut. the plastic cap comes off. tighten the nut. if this does not or the shaft is stripped, place a split lockwasher between the nut and that will do it.

may have an air bubble in the block. try filling plock from the hoses first, then the radiator. run the car till the thermostat opens. the water pump may be bad or inefficient

beware 85-87-89, since hete were gl hatchbacks that were ea81 and brats as well. this is true when shopping for parts at the auto stores

i don't know. some people are turned off by stick on stuff. I suppose let the buyet decide as not to make a goof trying to remove it.

you can as long as you understand the function of the procedure. if the belts are loose, you would hear a knocking sound and backlash in the cams and distributor. there are rubber plugs on the fornt of the belt covers that you can poke a finger in and periodically inspect the belts, and check your work. do it when you are changing oil to monitor it.

Go with the SPT from the dealer, as it is tuned with the car. Other generic makes will affect the helmholz resonator with the MAF. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1029234&page=9

i use offset box wrenches. if you remove the pitch stopper and its mount, you can get at it with a 3/8 ratchet and a deep socket. be care ful not to round the bolt and have a good 6 side socket with a ratchet, as the heads on the bolts are short, and you want the tool on squarely. I use a pipe on my ratchet, or slip a box wrench over the end of it for leverage if necesary.

you would have to remove the interior panel in the rear, and take up the back seat, and rocker panel plastic trim on the sides, and you should be able to get at it without too much difficulty, if it is indeed broken. you can remove the rear panel to at least inspect the cabe mechanism otherwise pop a quarter or a credit card into the fuel door to pop it open

use the CRC MAF cleaner spray, and replace the PCV valve. The oil cap must seal proeprly, as it contains the breathing system.

there are holes on the face of the cam pulleys, that if you can fashion a spanner tool by using a flat bar with holes drilled in it and studs, you can take the slack from the belts. i usuaally grip the pulley by hand and turn it the direction where it pulls the driven side of the belt tight, and then drop the tensioner. when installing, loosen both bots on the tensioner, but do not remove them, swint he tensioenr away from the belt and tighten the top bolt. once the belt is on, take the slack from the belt and loosen the bolt so the tensioner comes in contact, and you can even push thensioner to the belt when tightening down. if you go the extra step to take off the pulley, the cam seal is easy to do. there is a retainer to remove that you can chage the seal off the car, and then reinstall the retainer. loosen or tighten the bolts with the belt on the pulley. be careful with the 10mm bolts as they can brealk with too much torque. use a 1/4 dr ratchet and go nand tight, and then no more than 1/8 turn if not using a torque wrench

^^^ This is so very true with subarus in their unique design. They are also tricky to bleed, that when the radiator is full, there could be an air pocket in the engine. This will be true with combustion into the coolant ans it pushes coolant out and forms the bubble, and then you beleed it again until it does it again. I have had better than 75% results with a block sealer, the 'liquid glass kind" according to the information on this forum, i would suiggest using the subaru cooling conditioner from the deale, and replace the thermostat, and executing the coolant fill/bleed procedure described in this forum search results. replacing a head gasket would be more of a permanent fix, as the gasket has been revised, and any new one you buy would sumercede the one in your car

i would think the dots on the back represent the other side as its at an angle into the oil, and correlates with the front, which will be offset on the other side. The dipstick should fit better one way than the other, older soobs had an arrow pointing out, i would think dipstick orientation would matter for accuracy.

Find an effective way to remove it:confused:

Welcome oldschool! this car is simple to maintain, sometimes tedious, but easy to do. auto or stick? your car is compatible with any 85-94 of the same body style for suspension, trans, and body. the sedan and 3door have the same fender, hood, frontend as the wagon. your car if not turbo is an SPFI engine, plug and play from any back to 88 If the rear main is not leaking, you could let it go, but if you service it, be meticulus with the install, and so some searching about rear main seal, as a bad installation can cause it to leak or pop out. There may be a groove on the crank, but you can set the seal somewhwere past it. Do not bottom out the seal, it should be flush with the crankcase. beware the rust, it likes to form in the rear rocker sills behind the mudflaps, behind the rear of the front fenders, and the framerails under the font, and the rear quarters. if you powerwash the car, open the doors and spray into the fender from the front door, and spray out the bottom of the doors to clean the little drain holes and dirt from the rubber seal. I wish you another 100,000 miles!

If you are aware of critical service intevals like the timing belt, coolant, and tips and tricks like the oil screen in the banjo bolts, any subaru would have maximum reliability. If you kept the (turbo) car up in good maintenance, you could get a good price if you decide to sell it later, to someone who really wants one.

less rusty and seam welds 5 lug hubs before electrolysis exhaust shiles after electroloysis por15 suspensions and brake lines