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Everything posted by MilesFox
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Going back togethetr now. I had the brake line looms apart, electrolyted, por15'd, and reassembled with syl-glide in the clims. Ummy-Nummey ooey-gooey 1986ness going on here factory fresh! The car is ready to receive the gas tank. I am grinding it down to por15 and undercoat the top of it, and replace the sending unit nuts with stainless steel The suspension is assembles, but the bolts are not torqued. I need to find my brake parts laying around, while i install the backing plates, and the hubs at least to let iof off the jacks once i torque it. I undercoated the bushings and the tight spots of the suspension tube and trailing arms. I slathered anti-seize on the bolts threads, heads, nuts, and inside the bushing sleeves. I am stealing the stainless steel factory fuel clamps form under the hood of an xt6 to use in place of the screw clamps. I am going to make the car driveable once i replace the flexible rubber brake lines, and then tackle the inside of the rear quarters, wheel wells, and drive the car between before doing the front, as i need to find 23 spline doj's to throw on the xt6 axles.
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grab the maplights as they are brighter. try to get the rubber piece on the door that goes with the mudflaps. the clock and the trip computer are worth grabbing for the usmb, and the l-shaped door handles are bonus; getting rare if you can have at it wioth tis car, grab the swaybars. you can swap the trailing arms disc and all and have the swaybar mounts. if you can get me the swaybar mount shackles and the bushings in the rear, let me know what you want for it, as i am missing those in my car
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"art of subaru maintenance" episodes 8 and 9 on youtube. find the 'timing belt check and replacement' article in the search on the USRM if you are reading the haynes manual, beware that the illustrations do not depict the 360 deg crank rotation, although it is in the text, but in british translation! good luck.
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Perhaps the diff was from a 94 legacy. this would make sense. if the gear ratios are wrong, you could swap the ring gears onto the LSD with the one you have/need. I believe the 94 legact turbo sedans were 3.9 rear with vlsd, and this would be correct gear for a dual range(non turbo) if you are lkucky to find a RX dual range full time, snatch it up, it is the same 3.7 gear as yours, entirely plug and play
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Hello. Are you parting off a donor car for the engine and harness? Are you building a motor? Welcome:)
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the forester is actually based on the impreza frame. going with outback struts accomplishes the same thing as forester struts. The struts are physically longer, , but you will be using your original springs. I went the route of forester struts on a legacy. It was fine other than the rear springs were too short for the travel of the longer strut, but outback or forester springs would have fixed that. on the outback legacy, at least, and most likely forester(please confirm) that there are spacers between the frame and the body to allow for the exta lift and maintain the suspension geometry. suppose you can find thise at a junkyard. or just find or make some 1' spacers and use slightly longer bolts. good luck and have fun, i would suggest checking out http://www.dirtyimpreza.com for advice based on tried and true and trial and error experiences with mix'n'match suspensions
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Yet another coolant leak!
MilesFox replied to Loyale93v's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
i have seen this water pipe develop leaks due to rust pinholes. also, the o-ring in the radiator water pipe may be bad at the water pump. try loosening the mounting bolt and shoving the pipe closer the the WP. OR just replace the o-ring, if you do find it's leaking there -
88 GL eating drivers side timing belts
MilesFox replied to Dj7291993's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
i bet on cheap belts, or a bent flange on the oil pump pulley, or to eliminate any trouble first, the tensioner is on its way out. Tensioners can and do seize. for the sae of simlicity, change them out, and more than likely eliminate the problem. your oil leaks are more likely the cam seal. you can remove the cam pulle bolts and re torque them with the belts on. not too tight, or they may break -
you can remove the rear portion of the diriveshaft, leaving the front portion in to keep all the trans fluid from leaking out. the bolts are designed to be loosened from the nut side, as the head of the bolt will be stopped in place by the casting of the yoke. you do not need a wrench on the bolt heads until you unthread enough of it that it wiggles past the casting.
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any ea82 dual range trans is a direct bolt in. you will need a 3.90 diff with your donor trans, as yours is already a 3.7 gear, and the dual range was only 3.9(unless you find an rx trans, full time dual range with diff lock for turbo 3.7)) you will also need 23 spline axles for any non turbo to go with your dual range trans. you will need the dual range shifter, as it does not have the pushbotton mechanism. you can still use your original driveshaft, clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, and transmission mounts. the swap is covered, just search dual range swap or conversion and you will find lots of threads
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unequal axles. break traction, and the car walks to the side of the road. I experienced this in a toyota corolla, and a hyundai elantra. New snow tires almos corrected the torque walk in the elantra, but it was still present if i romped it enough. I was most impressed driving a saab 900 in the snow, it was stick straight and true like any subaru i have ever had, and it has equal length axles. subaru was a good design, based on fwd anyway, with all of the motor entirely forward of the front axles. subaru pioneered FWD at least in the american market, save for the duesenberg and the toronado/riviera, when most japanese vehicles were still rear drive at the time. Hence the U.S. Ski Team sponsorship.
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check the small coolant hoses behind the throttle and under the intake. to replace coolant, you have to add coolant to the radiator cap, not the overflow. the overflow bottle only serves to contain boiled over coolant versus letting it spill on the ground. with all the reading about 2.5 headgasket, people are assuming their ea81 and ea82 engines are sprouting external headgasket leaks, wgen in most or all cases, is never the case, since it is not the same type of failure as the 2.5, but rather an overlooked hose under or behind the intake.
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coolant temp sensor
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snow tires do wonders! at least a FWD subaru has equal length axles, and no torque steer when the wheels slip, like a lot of transverse engine cars. and just because its not a 4wd subaru doesnt mean that it wont do better than all front wheel drive cars!
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Compression test results ???
MilesFox replied to Casino Loyale's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
UGGGH only if they are falling out of the sky!!. give it to me if you throw it out. I have the last ea82 on earth, at least in my region. sounds like blown head gasket. easy to fix. dont wasete a still good motor if you can fix it yourself. what if you get a junkyard engine and it blows a head gasket? i have fixed these motors in WAY WAY WAY worse condition. -
with the engine on a stand, and the timing belts off, you can chuck a 12mm socket in a drill and operate the oil pump this way to pump through. ATF is good. so is kerosene
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1988 XT6 - Dead Electrical.
MilesFox replied to Firmlog's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
^^^ i bet this part is missing (how do you turn off the filter keys< sorry about the caps>>> -
Yet another coolant leak!
MilesFox replied to Loyale93v's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
more likely one of the little coolant hoses on or under the intake. -
i thought about making a Milwaukee Regional/Subaru alliance thread in the meet n' greet. remember to keep it clean. like i have said before, the off-topic had been closed before due to unnecessary post-whoring.
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Did you own this car for the past years, or are you paying overdue registrations caused by the previous owner? in wisconsin, it costs 75 to register a car. if you register late, its a 10 dollar fee(after 30 days of renewal date), or you can issue a NEW plate number for the normal fee on the registration form, you can verify that the car has not been operated on public highways from this date to this date, if you went a while on renewing the plates.
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your highest compression pistons are going to be 9.5 in mpfi non turbo xt and maybe a rare gl-10 or special order gl. you will want to look for xt's for 1997. or, if ordering pistons from a supplier, specify 87 xt non turbo mpfi otherwise, all of the spfi pistons will be 9.0 from 1986 gl-10 and 87.5 and up gl/dl/loyale with SPFI