MilesFox

Hope you get a good payout. seems like that is the current trend, as i know more people who have gotten crashed into and paid than i have had cars recently. should you decide to keep it, i do have a complete dashboard, airbag system, steering column fender and bumper for this car. It's yours for your offer if you want to make it an excuse to visit milwaukee.

that's how it goes sometimes. when i lifted my turbo wagon (trashwagon 4) i rolled it over on my first drive. my current project will totally be a garage queen

Silver fox as a sedan, trash3door as a coupe, trashbrat and trashback(ea81hatch)are also viable. there are somewhat specific parameters that qualify a car for a trashwagon designation. stage 1, paint and exterior, the 2 tone paint job, and 3 point lighting system(fog, driving, and rooftop for tall grass), dual whip antennae stage 2, interior mods such as carpeted or in tom's case, camo door panels headliner, etc, interior swaps such as retrofits, seat covers, lights, buttons, and swithces, roof mounted amp or van console. stage 3, suspension or engine mods, preferrably retrofits from newer models, that can use unmodified factory parts as replacements. "stage 4, or even stage 0" provided the car was rough enough, anything you can do tho the car with saws, rivets, welds, would not compromise the original value of the car to start with. Such as hot rolled sheet metal armor fastened to the side of the car with sheetmetal screws, and aluminum road signs in lace of floor/trunk panels. somewhat to do with the original concept would be a rough beat up car with a nice clean interior. 'trashwagon 1(onofficial)' was an 87 cavalier. Then i got my first soob. then i got a ford pinto, painted it like i had my pinto, and hence the official designation of 'trashwagon3' was born, and they have all been soobs since then thru 10. tom's car should tecnically be TRASHAGON8MKII, as it is the same model of car as the original trashwagon 8. There has been a relipca of trashwagon 5, and there are a few other wagons, if designated, we would have a trashwagon 14 by now. http://www.trashwagon.com for history.

The clutch should engage lower towards the floor. Chanced are the cable is too tight. too often someone replaces a clutcu, and makes the cable too tight, stretching the pressure plate. find the clutch cable under the hood. back it off if it's too tght. It should lonly be tight enough to take the play out of the fork-that's it. If you are contending with a hill holder, you make the clutch cable ajustment first, then adjust the hill holder. If the hill holder is too tight, the rear brakes will stick after pulling forward from a reverse maneuver.

I have had the idea of using a spare heater core to help cool the water before or after the turbo.

water cooled and oil cooled. water is piped off the driver side head under the motor to the turbo, and returns to the thermostat running under the intake. The oil is supplied off the back of the passenger head, and returns to a dump tube at the back of the head

the reverse lights can be spliced. dont know the pinouts off hand. the neutral safedy can be bypassed by jumping the 2 biggest wires in the middle of the harness for the AT shifter

there is a little stash drawer under the passenger seat. check it out!

That is cglossy por-15, a bit shiny. I got a can of 3m undercoating that will be sprayed over it. for the suspension parts, i will pant them rustoleum satin black

precisely!

So far today I cleanud up the underside and welded in a patch, and por-15'd. I have one more spot to patch. I will be reconditioning the hard lines assembly, spraying undercoating over the POR 15, and installing the hard lines after this is done. Same with the gas tank, as the original undercoat did not go above the gas tank. I applied the por-15 to all the body seams first, letting it soak in between the laters, and then painting the rest. I was able to paint all you see with a single baby food jar of paint, and a foam brush. The electrolysis on the suspension tube frame was to my liking, and i welsded up all the seams to prevent moisture between layers, and for strenght. I would weld end caps to it and fill with some kind of oil to absorb into the inside's rust flakes, and stop oxidization What oil could be recommended? Welded patch Seam weld on tube frame

The heater core is driven directly off the water pump. Your description of operation is normal. Perhaps the thermostat is slightly delayed. You can consider replacing it along with new coolant and hoses for longevity.

Back at it agian. I have been cookong the subframe tube over the last 2 days. Today i got into the shop and grinded off the rusty spots under the car. The undercoating is a lot to remove. I am only removing the undercoating where it is obviously rusty. my plan will be to por-15 the rusty spots, and re-spray the whole underside with new undercoating, tis time above the gastank and exhaust shields, and behind all the brake fuel lines. Once i finish this, i can reinstall the suspension and tank, and do the rest of the un-rusting from there. I have already removed the seats ad rear carpets in the anticipation of possibly welding. more eloctrolysis setups Close up of electrolytic action electrocuted rust scales flake off with a wipe of a rag or finger after soaking The following pictures is my work with a wire wheel. The white spots are either bare metal reflecting the light, or where the rust had turned white from the naval jelly. What looks like rust is actually the brown paint, or dust on the undercoating. left cargo hold in rear fender Right cargo hold I was able to peel up the body caulk where the rusty seams are. I will be using a heat gun to get the rest up. Moisture had worked its way from the pinch seam under the car, and into the body caulk, rusting the seam from the inside. Wothout the body caulking here, there would actually be open spaces to the outside by the layers of the original body stampings that make up this part of the car.

Maybe it's just a broken timing belt. read the write up: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50768 watch the video: here is an ea82T in various stage of disassembly doing head gaskets http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/gallery/rxbuild/ for your search terms: ea82t (engine) , ft 4wd d/r(transmission in this car), 3door coupe(related to the body and interior), leone rx/II (euro version of same car) good luck!

Automatic trans? sometimes when a modulator fails, it will suck ATF thru the vacuum causing a thick white smoke.

If its a 3at 3spd auto, consider looking still. If its a 4eat (4spd electronic) that is better. The 4eat is the same design up to 2004 automatic subarus, so in theory, you can swap in one from a legacy and use an ej22 if you were into it for a project. otherwise, you can use a legacy trans and swap over your existing differential to match the bellhousing. If the car has a good service history, it will not be a bad choice for 600 bucks. if you are really into it for a project, you can swap in a manual trans using the same running gear, you just need the mount, driveshaft, and clutch/flywheel assembly, and its related bolts.

are you using the original oil pressure sending unit. Its small for a dummy lite, or a larger canister unit for an analog gauge. If you use an analog sender for a dummy lite, it will be lit when you DO have oil pressure.

invent one.

the 1996 is not a bad year with the 2.2. If looking at a 2.5 get the timing belt/water pump history, and watch for bubbles in the coolant.

Not a bad price for the mileage and year. it will have a pushbutton 5spd manual 4wd trans. The 4wd mechanism is electric/vacuum that actuates a mechanical linkage(can be actuated manually if it fails) Assuming no maintenance history, it may be on its original timing belts. Easy enough to repair of it breaks, though, non-interference. Parts are interchangeable between 1985 and 1995 DL/GL/GL-10/XY/RX/loyale coupe, sedan, wagon rear disc brakes form a turbo swap in a dual range trans is a direct bolt in using the same axle, clutch, mount, and driveshaft you can swap in missing accessories such as rear speakers, map lights, power windows from any gl or loyale equipped with such The car is novel and practical, but not the best in performance(raw power and torque, although it is high revving and handles tightly), but is a good car if you appreciate its versatility. The car will be reliable so long as you understand subaru specific maintenance practices. This car is easy to work on compared to most other makes, but is much different than other makes.

Nice clean brat. Do make the investment to repair the rust, as it is minor, but in a place you do not want it. You could list the selling price for every bit of the original invoice in today's dollars. The maintenance records and original owner will hold the highest to book/auction value. DO NOT sell this car to some bastard kid who thinks he can put a turbo in it like anyone else's impreza/wrx This car deserves to be in the hands of a subaru collecor, or anyone who would keep a show worthy or classic car.

if you spare is undersized on one axle, the center diff will still rotate with one front and one rear tire of the same size. the front or rear diff spiders and carrier(if in front or back) will rotate more because of the size difference, but the center will feel no effect. this would have the same action as driving in a very wide circle on the diffs, as they are designed to do.

I would suggest bad intake gaskets, as this introduces water into the CC, and will simulate a bad HG less the compression loss. Intake gasets can be deceiving, but at 6 bucks apiece, see if this fixes the matter before it gets worse.

If the water pup is leaking, replace it right away. When it gets bad enough, it will start to seize and drag on the timing belt. perhaps this is your burning rubber smell. Replace the water pump and timing belt for good measure. IF the WP takes out hte timing belt, no big deal, a new belt and WP will fix that. But if you get an overheat due to the bad WP, then you risk HG failure. At 175,000 mi, i bet you this is the original WP and timing belt from the factory. Do the work now and forget about it till 300,000 mi

do the headgaskets, block and heads should be fine. make sure you do not have a blown out hose. look behind the throttlebody, and under the thermostat housing between the top of the block for 1.4 inch hose that may be leaking.