MilesFox

My 94 gt wagon will now and agian wig out on dry pavement from a slow stop. The abs light comes on, and then goes off. One time i parked my car in the garage, came out 20 min later, and the abs pump was wigging out creating a buzzing sound, withthe car off and parked. I had to unplug the pump and put a charger on the battery. ABS is whack, and so are automatic seat belts, and anything that is 'by wire' instead of a mechanical linkage. You might as well send the car out to do errands itself, less the driver, withthe way thay are designing them these days. my 2 cents..

Subarus are selling better now than they ever have. So there are more people with subarus. But unless you know subarus over the last 30 years, you are going to freak out the first time it needs service, and mechanics freak out the first time someone brings them a subaru. The internet provides links to here from search results. It's a parallel

The ignition swithc is the part you would use a screwdriver. Not anything to do with the key, unless it doesnt turn all the way. The small tab on the back of the starter is a low draw circuit for the solenoid. You can run a wire through the clutch or speedo grommet, and feed the wire under the dash to place a button where the fog light switch would be on the dash, or the knoclkout plate on the bezel(87 and up whre the fan switch would be on 85-86), or wherever. You do not need a high amp bulky button like you see at the auto stores. the 'horn' button will roek, or any nuicer momentary contact button with a retauning nut to mount into a hole. Run from the starter to the button, and then from the button to a 12v source. You can borrow power from the fuse panel at a fuse that is on with run, acc, or hot all the time. My preference is 12v live when key off, for purposes of maintenance. you can use fuse 5. if you tie in elsewhere, put a fuse in the circuit in case the wire grounds out

I agree. With a little luck, you should be able to take off the caliper and lube it up. At least remove it to check it out. My experience with stuck calipers is due to the last set of pads wearing sop low that the piston is hyper extendes and rust forms on the exposed piston beyond the boot. So when you push it back in fo rthe new pads, it can get stuck. If the boots are ripped and it looks really bad, just get a new/reman caliper, as it will be easier than trying to rebuild it, or based on the availabiltiy of a rebuild kit. If you can get it apart, and free up stuck sludes, you can clean them up with pb blaster and steel wool, and re-lubricate it. You should be able to find boots or new slides pins. Use 'syl-glide' brand or equivalent sylicone lube. This particular brand can be found at napa. or do the 99c packets at the auto retailers.

possibly crossed spark plug wires. 1-3-2-4 couterclockwise

rust for the lose I have this tool, if you want to go 2300 miles for it! Otherwise, i was able to purchase one online for about 30 bucks.

ITs the contacts inside the ignition switch. common problem. If you get stranded by this, you can jump a wire from the battery to the small terminal on the starter to kick her over. The problem is not the starter, and replacing it will do no good. The easiest thing to do is run a pushbutton, or rebuild/replace the ign switch

will the car go into 2nd if you manually move the lever to 2nd?

Knock sensor maybe? You can buy a obd2 scanner from harbor freight for about 60 bucks. Some auto retailers will 'loan; you the tool, but you are putting up the face value of the tool until you return it. Otherwise, if you do not return it, you just bought it.

I have had trailing arms rusted in half and collapse. GROSS rust from the inside out. Like sitting in salt bath on the ground in the woods rust. But the suspension was not sagging. I replaced it before it failed

NGK V-power BPR11ES .035 gap This is what the oem spark plug should be. Bosch platinums do not do as well. autolite and champions are junk. if you are intent on some iridium or fancy multi prong plug, select from what NGK has to offer. Too much spark can stress the coil and ignition amplifier, if you are trying to go with larger gaps and bigger coils.

Wheel bearings and wheel bearings. Fixes alignment, no adjustment. Bad wheel bearings will cause toe and camber issues. This is due to an inner and outer cone style bearing that the center spindle is pressed through. for 350 bucks, they should be doing the bearings. Find another shop. There is a special socket required to do the wheel bearings. If you want more ride height, go tp the junkyard and snag the rear shocks out of a 2wd model, as they are a little bit longer, but bolt in the same. There would be nothing to sag or collapse over time, since the rear suspension is a simple tube frame bolted to the body, and the trailing arms bolt to it. There are bushings, but i would suspect wheel bearing issues as compounding the matter.

The 4wd mechanism is a physical actuation, controlled by vacuum and electrical solenoids. Any problems that may occur would be relative to a vacuum line coming loose under the hood, easy to do when servicing the engine. Nothing really to physically break. The 4wd can be actuated manually if the solenoids fail. Any subaru with a pushbutton 4wd manual, or any full time with a diff lock use the same mechanism. The 4wd is actuated by a vacuum diaphragm, in a push/pull manner by a pair of solenoids alternating between off and on to pull the diaphragm one way or the other. When the switch is actuated, it turns off one solenoid, and turns on the other. You could invent or bypass or replace this with a pair of switches to operate the solenoids independently, or a ganged pair of swithces. If you saw an electrical schematic for this, you would understand how it works.

Ah, Indiana. Sorry, but i used up all the old soobs in NE indiana 10 years ago. I'm surprised they still turn up.

Fuse #5 clock/horn/hazard. Should be a Green wire behind the radio with a single clip.

Oil leaks are not horrible to fix or expect. Put your money on the condition of the body. The car would be worth 700 in the rust belt if it was complete and ran. 500 is the more ideal price if the dealer just wants to cut the loss and wash their hands of it.

Suppose you could put moth balls around the car, but it could leave residual smell with the car. Maybe plug in one of those ultrasonic rodent deterrents that emit a high pitch frequency. Aside from rodents, Changing the coolant will help prolong the coolant system, and prohibit corrosion, just like the zinc rod in a a water heater does. Get your fluids changed now. When the car is back in service 2.5 yrs from now, change the oil. The trans fluids should be fine. It would be ideal to have the car started up now and again, and ran through to operating temperature. Best if the car can be driven once a month. Use a silicone spray on all the door and trunk seals. You can use it on plastics and rubber that would fade over time. Don't forget to wash and wax the door jambs if you are detailing the car. Make sure there is no dirt or leaves hanging out behind the fender, windshield cowl, and in the trim pieces above the doors, inside the mud flap and fender arches. For parking on wood, park on something that the tire will sit evenly upon, vs straddling over a 2x4. Rats shouldn't need to go in the car unless it's warm or have food. Suppose you could deter any potential for rodent intrusion by providing a heated area away from the barn such as some sort of doghouse with nesting material. This advise would be conducive with preserving a car, but in your case with a new car with lo miles, do what makes the best financial sense for you.

put a block of wood against the axle and whack it with a big hammer. it should pop the cone washer out. IF the axle pushes in a little, it will draw back out when you reinstall the nut.

Chances are the nut comes off with the stud. If so, just replace them. There is a slight chance a rusted stud can take the aluminum thread with it. You can get away with just new hardware if that happens, if you are careful with torque. Thread is m10x1.25 Install the short end of the studs to the head. Thread in the stud first, install pipe, then nuts. You can shop in the HELP brand aisle and either find a pair of 'import exhaust studs', or 3 studs and 2 bolts in the 'GM/Toyota exhaust manifold' kit (get 2 if you need 6 studs)

I have a spare head laying around the shop. Not sure which side it is, but it came from a 92 fwd 5spd wagon. You are welcome to it if it has the right port, or if you want to practice machining on this one first.

Has the timing belt ever been done? Do you get spark? Remove the distribuotr cap and observe the rotor. Either (A): the set screw fell out and the rotor is not engaged with the shaft, or ( Engine cranks, and rotor is not turning, because the timing belt is busted. If it is a broken timing bely, it can be fixed easily, as long as you know the crank and cam rotation, as this engine is non-interference, which means no bent valves

The cylinder could be hydrolocked with standing coolant in the cylinder. It may turn free once you pull the head.

Typical of bad PCV valve

Grow a mullet, and get a tape deck radio with a Def Leppard tape already in it. Just a car stereotype. Much like how Subarus are lesbians

The physical appearance of the solenoids' differences would be the orientation of the nipples. I would think they would work the same. Do you have a check engine light for one? Suppose the wiring to it is bad. The purge control can be eliminated if you are not subject to emissions tests. It really was an after-design from the original design to make specs for the U.S. market.