MilesFox

I would consider this for my 3door. I already have all the brake lines removed to use as a template. once i can source some ss 3/16 tubing and metric fasteners, then i will be in business. Otherwise, my project is ready to go with that once i hae the parts. If you can source the tubing yourself, you can bid a price to me what you would do it for(and use mine as a template to do everyone else)

coolant temp sensor?

You will find it does the same thing when you use the turn signal. The pump is quite east to get at to replace. Sometimes the mounting screws twist off, and then you have to get creative. I would tell you to take the sound as heed to possibly replacing the fuel pump. But i will also tell you, that it is not entirely bad, since i have seen it in several cars that ran just fine. I would consider this, at least, a common occurrence.

I would suspect a short to ground. Especially if lights remain on. At least for the lights, they are hot at the bulb and ground at the switch. And the horn/clock/hazard circuit is hot all the time, independent of the key. Good luck!

It's kind of an oldschol term for 'hatchback' But we all know that on USMB, 'hatchback' refers to an ea81 hatch, and 3-door refers to the ea82. The ford pinto had a 'runabout' version

Just like Van Damme as Guile in Street Fighter: the movie

There is a resistor coil that controls the 1-3 spds. #4 spd bypasses the resistor for full power. The resistor il=s located in the passenger side footwell, just undwer the glovebox. Remove the kickpanel trim, and you will see a rectangle with 2 screws and a wire lust below and to the left of the fan motor.

3door coupe. gl. 1986. same body as an rx coupe or loyale rs, less the wing, body kit, and turbo. On my wisconsin title, it shows 'runabout' in the body type, hence my term. If you want to know more, it has an ea82 carb, brown interior, fwd 5spd. It already has a 4wd wagon suspension, and is getting 5 lugs.

I have a picture, but need to locate it. My 86 3door has an immaculate underhood. I used a product called 'U-Haul grafitti remover' to degrease all the gunk on the aluminum, and what sticks to the rubber hoses. I sprayed and washed about 3 times, using rags and a scotch pad to scrub. After a good wash(got the m/c, the battery tray, the trut tops, firewall all nice and clean, i sprayed everything with tire shine while everything was still wet(the concentrated stuff that looks like elmers glue you mix with water. It turned out rather well, and will impress people that are buying a car that this has been done to.

Bosal is right. Try shopping napa. http://www.napaonline will let you shop your local stores and show if in stock or not. Napa will get you stuff that is 'listed, but not available' at the chain stores. quite handy if you prefer to shop at a local store vs waiting for the mail with online shopping.

You could physically fit an ea82t from an 85+ turbo car. 85 and 86 models are very similar schematically, and it may likely be possible an ea82t(vane MAF, mechanical disty) would run on the stock ecu if you were to match all the pinouts. Otherwise, you could throw a carb ea81, or an ea82 for that matter.

make the exhaust an x shape, crossing over at the same location as the original cat on the ea82, and put your sensor right on the X

Make a x-type arrangement with a pair of cats as the collecotor, then back out to duals Otherwise, make an x-style pioe with one cat as a collecotr, and fool the 2nd o2 sensor with a resistor. If you had no cats, you can use anti-foulers in the o2 bung to move the sensor out of the exhaust stream. You should take a look at the car's ORIGINAL y pioe for some idea

my list may include 79 for some models, but are all the same template

You could expect to have to do an axle or wheel bearing as regular maintenance. Other than that, its plug wires and and fluid changes. Do the cam seals at least while you are doing the belt. The work is very easy, but just different than what you are used to(cars other than subaru)

3m super weatherstrip adhesive works to glue it back down with its original clips. Clean the surfaces well. Try syl-glide(brake caliper grease) if the spray is not heavy duty enough. The product lists several uses beyond brakes, and one suggestion is trunk lid seals.

I would guess swithced fuel lines, or crossed plug wires. Did you remove the fuel lines? the return line connects to the regulator, since it is after the injector. This can be misleading if you did not know this. Firing order is 1-3-2-4 counter-clockwise with #1 being the passenger front of the engine, and pointing to the master cylinder n the cap.

Try to get the work done for 300 bucks or so. A proficient mechanic can perform the work in 3 hours or so. save the labor cost and pull the hub yourself, and take it into a shop that has a press. But this implies you have some tools, and you may need to buy a ball joint separator.

It would be good for the hard mechanical of the engine, and the harness, and everything else you need to mock up the build. The rest would be sensors or whatnot, but you have all the physical parts you would need. If the price is right, you can't go wrong. If you keep the engine from the car, you could perhaps sell the body of the car with title and trans to someone that would have a motor already for it, if it has a clean body and interior.

80-84 wagons, 80-89 hatch, and 80-87 brat all fit the same. 85-89 gl/dl wagon/coupe/3door and 90-94 loyale fit the same 90-94 legacy 95-99 legacy

oh, man, i wish i was there. With a flip camera...

It is possible the disty could be 180. If you follow the article, you would install your 2nd belt, and then rotate the crank another 360 to be back where you begin with. It is from there, when the disty side cam is pointing up, you rotate the crank until the TDC mark comes to view, and install the disty. The passenger side cam dot will be pointing to the hard edge of the valve cover just above SUBARU when the #1 piston is at TDC and just to state the obvious, #1 cylinder is on the passenger side front. Make sure your plug wires are routed correctly!(if you can verify this for us) Looks like you did your research. Try these videos if they may be more concise in comprehension. (timing belt) (distributor timing)

There is another inner o-ring that fits on the circular part of the pump inside the block. The mickey mouse seal is the mating surface seal. There is also a shaft seal. good luck

you could build your turbo heads on an spfi block, and find the right intake boot and be done. The ecu should work the same. there would be a pinout on the ecu harness that grounds out to identify the ecu for turbo or not.

I have used a carb block with 8.5 compression running in stock form. I believe stock boost is 6 or 7 psi. I believe ea81 carb is 8.0, ea82 carb 8.5, and spfi 9.0 (please corect me if i'm wrong) I think you could just use 9.0 compression and run middle grade gas and do just fine