MilesFox

drive with no clutch. start car in gear, shift by matching rpm, throw in neutral when stopping and turn off car. Repeat

Set the timing(install the distributor) during the timing belt isntall. You can line up the ignition based on counting the rotations during the timing belt procedure. if you had notremoved the disty, turn ot to the right. connect the green plugs on the firewall to set timing with a light, then un plug them and leave them unplugged.

Well, this thread can discuss common rust spots in ea82's and how to combat them.

I have had enough of these cars to see where all the rust starts, and what breaks when it's too rusty. This car is in pretty good shape considering its age and location. Most of the rust on it is sitting rust. I would be the 3rd owner of this car, at 110,000 mi.

The port on top of the block next to the knock sensor by the timing window. This is not present on a carb block, nor is the breather plate in back. You would eliminate this tee.

In the pamphlet that comes with the product, they have a topcoat paint that you apply over the por-15 treatment. The other products are like marine clean, to dissolve any grease or loose dirt on the metal. My biggest tackle is going to be removingor getting behind the rubberized 'rusty jones' coating on the bottom of the car, for the sake at getting to the bare steel, mainly around the seams. Some of the rust-through is caused by salts and moisture to get under the coating and flake it out with the steel. I would maybe like to seam weld some of the critical areas, where the spot welds and stampings begin to de-laminate as they rust. I would like to do this on all the solid metal that i would expect to rust in the future. I am also seam welding the tube frame where the mounts are tacked on. There are full seam welds from the factory, but there are other edges that are just overlapped with no weld, that crust can get inside between the layers. I would like to fashion some end caps to keep the insides from rusting out, as it is quite flaky I had the idea of welding them up and filling the inside with enough oil to soak into the rusty flakes and stop oxidization. Same with the trailing arms, since there is rusty flakes shaking around in them, and there are open spots in the stampings on the ends. I have seen these rust out at the seams and split in half.

drill holes. The headrests will bolt in. I had an 86 brat that the previous owners chopped in form an 84. Dimensionally the seats sit in there the same.

You can leave a lot of the vac stuff intact, and it all can come off with the intake, all you do is disconnect the car end. do not bother to undo fuel lines and everything in between the manifold, as it is not necessary. I had a motor that rusted up from haveing standing water in the cyls. Soaking with PB blaster for a week, and removing the heads and smacking the pistons with a hammer and block of wood freed it up. This motor still lives today, after 10,000 miles, and sitting around for 5 years, it found its way into the Monster Wedge(from the XT forum) You could use a carb block and get away with it, have a little better bottom end torque, if you do not go modifying the boost and the timing. you will have to make a routing around the pcv port on the top of the turbo block.

200 would be a fair offer. if dude is after money, and it's in your pocket, he may just bite. Depending in how nice it is, you could bargain towards 300 on your offer. But then again you can get them from subaru enthusiasts as easily. I drove 250 miles to pick one up for 50 bucks.

Going to brake shop, like tuffy or midas, with the free inspections, will always try to sell you on extra stuff. A lot of times they are selling you on rotors and calipers, even if they are not bad(when you can have pads and the discs turned) They mainly try and do this for liability reasons, to ensure a customer does not return too soon with failed parts, or come back and complain and try to get refunds. What is your driving environment? I can understand premature wear if you live in mountains and do delivery driving while towing trailers. Warped rotors are usually the result of overtorqued wheel lugs.

Sweet! Love the sedans. Good luck with this car. If there is no rust, it will last many more miles and years with good care. Love it or leave it, good ol' ea82.

I am rebuilding the back end of my 86-3door while converting 2wd to 4wd with xt6 5 lug. I am wire wheeling the suspension tube, trailing arms, and backing plates, to por-15 them, and seam weld some of it, and try to fashion end caps on the tube frame to keep the inside from rusting out. The body is mostly clean, but the wheel arches are bubbly, and there is surface rust appearing in critical placed underneath. The rear cargo holds are solid, but the body glue is forming rust underneath. I would like to treat as much of the seams without having to remove too much interior, since the interior is 100% intact and clean. I removed the gas tank to clean all the dirt up, and to do some rust attacking underneath. This car will be my garage queen, as i am applying for collector plates, and this car is 100% original 1986 goodness with grandma immaculate interior, except for the sleeper 4wd conversion with 5 lugs.

How about NAPA? they are generally better about cross-referencing and finding vendors that are otherwise 'listed, but not available' at most chain auto stores. Are you in an ea81 or ea82? Look for 1984 gl wagon OHV 1.8 for an ea81, or 1994 Loyale wagon OHC 1.8 These are your key words at the parts counter to not get ea81/ea82 mixed up, as there are some vague listings for 1985-1987-89 Due to Ea82 GL's, ea81 hatch, and brat were available at the same time for these years.

The metric thread reflects 1.25 threads per millimeter, hence the 1.25 pitch. Do the helicoil. It will come with the right size drill bit, and will work so long as the holes have not been previously drilled out. Only drill to the original depth of the hole. going any farther and you will end up in a water jacket! The helicoil kit comes with a bottom tap(flat on the tip) Studs are ideal vs bolts. When you turn a bolt, ithits bottom, and any more torque starts pulling out the threads. Studs go in till they bottom, and the nut then takes up all the torque, while the stud sints nice and snig in its thread. You can use a thread locker when installing the studs if you do not forsee the need to remove them later. Sometimes when dropping the exhaust for other service, the stud may want to come out with the nut. Threadlocker, and clean threads will help prevent this. it may not be an idea to use a thread tape on the nut side, or at least some anti-seize, to prevent the stud from backing out if the threads get corroded.

I found this post in regards to 'root beer' color. LOVE the color, as i have an 86 3door the same. Keep this car original and clen, detail it well, detail under the hood, and keep it nice with a vintage/collector late, and we hope to see it at a barret-jackson auction some day. It's worth preserving as an example in the realm of subaru heritage. As with my 3-door, I am doing a 5 lug swap, 4wd conversion, but i am doing in the best manner possible to not deviate from stock appearance. That means the factory cassette radio stays! Sorry to bring up an old post, but that car is just too sweet for me to not comment. All you haters can lick rust

Tom (TheLoyale) do you have any pics of my 3-door to post here? i can't find it onlineor in my hard drive.

I am trying to find the picture of it....

you would need the engine crosmember from an ea82t anyway to consider an turbo engine(in stock configuration)

Maybe there is a hole in the vacuum diaphragm. Try actuating the rod itself by hand, to make sure it is moving all the way to make an engagement. This electrical circuit, solenoids, and diaphragm setup are the same for central diff lock units on xt6 and rx, as far as other vehicles to get the same parts from.

How about a rootbeer brown? Like the color that was offered for 85-86. I have a rotbeer brown 3-door coupe, tan interior, that i am going to register as a classic collector plate. I really like the all stock 1986-ness of my car. Although i am doing suspension mods, i am keeping the stock appearance. I will beusing gold snowflake wheels against the original rootbeer brown, and would like to bronze tint my windows like you see on older lexus and toyota factory tint.

If the motor runs, it is good for a replacement or spare parts for a daily driven ea82t. It would have rear disc brakes, and a dual row radiator Does it have a manual trans? What kind of wheels? the GL-10 trim is nice to swap in your car if you like it, if it's in good shape, at least the seats. 150 is not a bad price if yo have room to keep it. It would be good for the turbo crossmember should you go for an ej20.

My girl's old man picked up a 98 forester with 165,000 mi. No problem with the head gaskets, and they are original. There is a maintenance history showing WP and TB had already been done, and routine coolant maintenance. No bubbles in the radiator! I suppose i should tell him to use a can of block condtioner, considering he just changed the coolant after a radiator leak. He is aware that this engine is susceptible to HG problems

loose axle nut/incorrectly installed washer(backwards)

This friend of yours wouldn't be Mike with a tow truck, would he?