MilesFox

Do searches for EJ25D and that should point you in the right direction. Also, look on the wikipedia article for "subaru ej" engine, and see if the "ej25d" matches the year and market for the production of your car.

PA is not on the west coast. Soobs were least populqr in the rust belt, and too abundant in the PNW. If you were native to the rust belt, you would work with whqt you have, or do without. Eventially, the subarus that are left in the PNW will be too rare to just throw away. If subarus fell out of the sky in the rust belt, one could be more picky. Don't assume that everthing always costs money. That isa where resourcefulness or ambition comes in. If anyone native to the PNW had to work on cars in the rust belt, they would probably throw in the towel the first time they had to break out the PB blaster or the hack saw. Why do you get so upset anytime someone wants to resurrect an ea82? Why be on a forum that is the only resource to ea82 owners, just to tell them they are wasting their time. Maybe post in the new gen forum, if it bothers you that much. Otherwise, it is becoming REDUNDANT to read every day. REDUNDANT REDUNDANT REDUNDANT REDUNDANT REDUNDANT

does a bear use charmin in the woods?

you can make the 4spd fit, if you use an ea82 manual trans crossmember, and make a custom 4wd lever. use the 4spd clutch, flywheel, driveshaft. You will have to re-locate(match) the ign timing marks from the ea82 flywheel onto the ea81 flywheel. The 4spd will have odd gearing for the ea82 motor, with gears spaced so far apart, you will be dancing with the shifter to keep an optimum rpm, since the ea82 will want to make power at higher rpms, and there is a lot of rpm drop with upshifts in the 4spd you would be best to find a 5spd, better yet, a complete donor car

Does your heter selector work:? or do you have only heat in the dash vents? this would be a sign of lost vacuum. Check the hose that goes from the intake to the vac chamber, as it is easy to knock loose and not notice when under the hood. Check the lines at the vac solenoids. You can manually aactuate the 4wd by pilling the rod that the vac diaphragm is connected to. if it is an electrical issue, you can referse the lines on the solenoid to engage/disengage the diaphragm in the opposite direction. It may be possible the nipples on the solenoid is broken. these are the same parts for any single range, or full time with diff lock, rx/xt/dl/gl/gl-10/loyake the 4wd light on the dash is actuated by a switch on the trans

I woulod bet on water in the plug boots. Pull the wires on either end and spray some wd40 or silicone spray, or dielectric grease in the boots.

use a trans from 85 and later 4wd 5spd d/r. its all bolt in if you have all the parts frm the donor. no mods necessary provided you have all the parts,

Every auto soob (4eat) i have driven will make a slight rumbling noise when making tight slow maneuvers such as parking or u-turns. Based on my experience with many soobs, i deem this as normal since none of these cars were in a state of failure, and perform flawlessly otherwise. suppose you are speculating an issue out of something that you are not familiar with, but is otherwise normal, and therefore paying money for repairs that are not necessary by folks who are not familiar with this vehicle. if anything, new tires. i would not worry about the b=rumbling sound, unless you are getting wheel lockup, lurching, and crabbing. The little bit of rumbling you hear is the normal operation of the rear transfer clutches releasing bind on dry pavement, where the transfer would be locked in slippery situations.

I use a brass wire wheel in a drill chuck to clean the cc's and valves when the heads are on the bench.

it comes down to doing the work youself or paying someone to do it. I can deal with oil seals and timing belts on a subaru, mainly for the fact that the subaru is easier to service.

Why not have used a can of block selaer? this may have fixed it. Or at least run less hot. I'm afraid the brake fluid is a fire hazard if a hose blows out and it gets on the exhaust. Keep a fire extinguisher on board.

Is the Tribeca really an SVX wagon? seems like the 3rd evolution of the alcyone from an engineering standpoint (engine and driveline)

I would drive them. I have seen the worst. I have driven the worst. But worst is better than none, if that is all you can get. The cars themselves deserve it. No one in PA would believe that you could find one with no rust if they had never seen one.

Not everyone had 30 ea82's before coming into an ej. At least this guy has 2 cars at once, and parts wont cost anything! as stated, dude has already done the ej thing. Nothing wrong with the old gl stuff, the ones that the 'seasoned' subaru enthusiast is 'done with'' (or truly, in love with). Why not keep them around. swapping parts with cars you already have is easier than "bad idea or costs alot" If this guy had a pair of first gen brats, no one would be telling him to go find himself another project. Not everyone is so wet behind the ears to figure out what they are doing. It's not like everyone who pops up here with a GL has never had a car before, or that we(usmb) are the only ones who can comprehend a subaru. If you have a pair of cars to work with, you can't go wrong at all.

I nhave thought about replacing the seat backs and bottom with plywood cut to fit, that when they are in the fold-down mode, you would have a bulkhead not as thick as the seat bottom, and the backs of the seats when down would serve as stowage in the footwell area, and you would have room for jumper cables and such under where the seat would be. You could essentially make a plywood seat bottom that is a lid when down, and a bulkhead when up. Otherwise, the warnings are there so people dont break their cargo or get the seat stuck and blame it on the car.

You can buy 10x1.25 studs in the "HELP" brand at most auto stores. there is a pair of studs, and you can also get the GM/Toyota stud and bolt kits(toyota corolla/gep prism) This will supply you with 3 studs and 2 bolts if the first kit is not available. I would explore what it takes to do a helicoil. Do not drill all the way thru the hole or it will poke thru the casting

i had 14" pugs on my 88 dl s/r 4wd with 195/60 14 tires. these were very close to the stock(185/70 13) in overall diameter but much wider, and retained the correct speedometer readings and had the right size for what the trans was geared for. these tires were inexpensive as far as not being some crazy low profile.

remove the block spacers and run an ea82 y-pipe, which will make up the difference in header length. the EA82 y-pipe will fit the rest of the car the same. what was the original application for your header pipe?

Do it the other way around and put the dual range in the turbo gl-10. The only other determining factor would be to put the best part int he cleanest body. aside from that, the mileage on both of these motors is nil, since the mileage is pretty close, and both engines would need the same work due to age such as hoses and timing belts if you are going to do a swap, use an ej22. Put it in the d/r car. it would be too much work to put a ea82 turbo in the other car when its easier to swap trans'. Then, you can sell the turbo car by getting the trans to work.(or have 2 soobs!) It is probably a stuck governor valve, which is easy enough to fix.

The holes for the flywheel bolts go clean thru to the crank case, and if you tip the motor back, oil will come out of them. You should use some thread sealer on the flywheel bolts, as that may be the source of your leaks

It's essentially the same. the wiring on the ea82 is neater. the ea81 does not have a clutch fan. other than that, the 2 engines fit in the car the same.

fixed!!

Have you had to add coolant, or are you just running the coolant that was in it? was the radiator or hoses apart on it at any time? It could just be air in the system. 1. burp all the air out and add coolant. Use a new thermostat 2. look for bubbles in radiator after burping 3. compression check to verify low compression 4 if no, you should be good with one more burp. if yes, try a can of block sealer(using clean water to apply, after flushing out all coolant, and follow the directions on the bottle if that doesn't do it, then prepare to pull the heads.

Try the conditioner/block seal to see if that will work. Chances are, it will get you by for a while. Perhaps someone here on the massage board would do the work for you if needed. Parts would be about 250 for a complete head gasket set with all the engine seals. I do such work for 500 bucks for the labor, (to pull the motor, do all the seals, and timing belt) and by that rate, you can have it done for less than 1000 by someone who does subarus exclusively, or as a hobby, enthusiasm, what have you.

If you are overheating, then parhaps this car had a blown headgasket as the reason for it being a free car to you. Make sure to check for either steam out the tailpipe, milkshake in the oil, or bubles in the radiator. If you have coolant in the oil, and it hasnt mixed, you would get coolant to come out if you drained the oil, since the oil floatson top. You mightbe able to get by with a can of block sealer, at least in the case of bubbles in the radiator or steam out the tailpipe. If you have milkshake, its time to pull the heads. But don't rule out bad intake gaskets, as this will create a gross vacuum leak, or introduce coolant into the intake and therefore lose it out the tailpipe, and will simulate a blown HG by its symptoms, except that there will be no effect on the compression.