MilesFox

I have had good luck with block sealers in subarus with bubbles in the radiator. The most recent example was a 99 outback 2.5 with bubbles, and a can of block sealer got it by to go to texas and back, and is now offered to me as part trade for my camper, and runs well enough to drive as si until i decide to make a project of it to flip, or drive as is, or sell outright to someone that would understand the circumstance9may need a headgasket in the future) Anyway, my point is, the block sealer got this guy to texas and back after only discovering the bubbles just after purchasing the car.

There would be a machanical clutch fan, unless your car came with no ac from the factory and 2 alternator belts, then there would be no clutch fan. A clutch fan can be retrofitted on for reliability.

low coolant, due to a bad intake gasket, or possibly a blown head gasket pushing combustion gasses into the radiator. do a compression test. if the compression is good, then you would be looking at the intake gaskets. look for bubbles in the radiator wen the car is running.

Fan Switch

You are on the right track, and a valiant effort! By the time you are done with this one, there should be nothing stopping your confidence from taking on more. The 2 wire you mentioned would go tho the idle air control valve. Try doing the sea foam trick if the wires are not broken. The iac might just be stuck. (search sea foam) if you take off the hose and pour a little sea foam in the tube, the sea foam should fill it up. once you turn the key, the valve will open and the sea foam will go inside. if it does not, then you will know if the idle air control valve is not working. If you take up the alternator, you can easily get at the IAC with a phillips screwdriver and take it off to soak in seafoam or disassemble it to clean out any junk. This part is easy enough to replace by finding one at the junkyard, or a forum member having one laying around. do not go try and purchase one new, unless you want to pay some ridiculous price for a part that is no longer in production. The only thing that should fail on this part is the wires or their solders. good luck

how about the engine temp sensor, the one on the thermostat withthe green plug and the 2 wires. the reading from this will affect the ecu's calibration of the IAC

inspect the hose from the top of the block to the thermostat. it may have a pinhole leak that is spraying forward, evaporating as fast as it leaks, or is pooling up on the top of the motor and dripping off the back or around the #3 spark plug onto the y-pipe. This is likely. check the coolant hoses around the throttle body as well. you can make this repair with a long screwdriver and about 6 inches of 1/4" hose. make sure the hose you get is not fuel line hose as it will fail again down the road. Also, follow the lower radiator hose to the water pipe on the front of the engine, and look for leaks where the water pipe goes into the waterpump. there is an o-ring on thos pipe where it simply fits into the water pump housing. There is a 12mm bolt that secures this part, sometimes just loosening the bolt and shoving the pipe in more or giving it a twist can seal it up. The o-ring is cheap and it is a one bolt repair if this is leaking. this will drip down the water pump and near the oil pump/filter/pan

you probably bumped the Idle Air Control valve on the front of the throttle body, its wire, or the hose that goes between it and the intake boot. try pulling the hose and see if the car idles up. other possibilities will be the engine temp sensor, the one with the green plug and 2 wires on the thermostat housing. Try unplugging it to force the car into close loop mode and see if that acts different. also, it is possible that the intake gasket is bad. you should be able to replace them withoug having to disconnect too much from the intake itself, its easy enough to do. I had a carb motor that would no idle, andif it did, would stalll by the time i could grab 2nd gear. after rebuilding the carb 3 times, i replaced the intake gaskets and that cured my problem the intake is designed to come off in one piece, and you only have to mofe it up enough to slip in the new gaskets(and to scrape off the old ones) aside from all that, you certainly have the timing and ignition right by your descriptions. do searches for IAC or 'idle air control' I would still bet on intake gaskets myself.

my 94 legacy gt 4eat 95,000 miles averages about 20-21 mpg across 300 mi of driving @ 65 mph average(some 60 mph, some 70mph, off and on snow driving at night) My variable factors are 15 inch wheels, and a cracked muffler flange. Mine does go in and out of torque converter lock depending on how i ride the gas pedal, and what you describe seems normal to me. My wheels are about 3mph off on the speedo, so my 301 miles i calculated for fuel economy is probably about 310-320 miles, and this my '21' mpg average. With the oversize wheels, i get the torque converter dance at about 60 mph, and the car seems more efficient towards 70 mph. I would think i should get 22-24 mpg with the right size wheels and a non-broken muffler. My economy in town is about 16-18, where it should be about 20 without the wheels and muffler issue.

Have the fuel lines been disconnected? I wonder if they could be connected backwards. The fuel pressure regulator is after the injector. The regulator is the return side of the fuel lines. I am trying ot remember if the fuel supply is the top or bottom fitting, but if you can find the one that originates formt he FPR, that is the return side. Also, do you know that the fuel pump is working? if the green test connectors are plugged in, the fuel pump will cycle off and on every 2 seconds. see if the car will start with a shot of starting fluid or a little bit of gas dowm the throttle body.

if you have 1,2,and 3, the resistor pack is fine, because position 4 bypasses the resistor altogether(full power) chances are that the switch itself is bad. try pulling or pushing on the knob to see if it makes contact. or pull off the knob and move the post up or down. i had one that faile on me in this manner, wehre i took off the knob and shoved a pen in the hole, and secired it with a rubber band to give some upwards tension. I was able to take the switch apart and rebuild it to make it work, but it failed again. If you wish to remove or replace the switch, you will have to remove the instrument cluster bezel. But, before you do this, pop out the DEf and the OFF buttons on the heater control and remove the 2 screws. If not, the whole heater control cluster will come out withthe bezel, and you risk breaking these screw tabs, which are the only thing that keeps the heater cluster from falling into the dash. once you have the bezel off, you can remove the 2 screws behind the heater switch knob to replace the switch itself.

your marks should coordinate with the 0deg mark for installation. the passenger cam at 10 oclock position will be in line with the hard edge on the valve cover above the 'subaru' lettering. try turning the distributor one way or the other to see if she fires. sounds like you are close. try lifting the disty juat a little to catch the next tooth on the gear. it will feel like there is a tooth 'in between' if you feel for it. once the car is running, plug in the green test connectors, and use the timing light to tune in to 20 deg btdc

congratulations. 1-3-2-4 counterclockwise for future reference

you could replace the little rubber steering joint with a double u-joint from an ea82 steering linkage and probably get away with it, if you build your lift in coordination with this extra length. Otherwise, you could saw the shaft and lengthen it with a pipe. It is neater to make modifications with factory parts instead of modded parts, as if one were to break, you can use another factory part. always mod the car to use a factory part, instead of modding a part to fit a factory location.

just pull off all the plug wires and start over with them once you get the disty correct. just so you know, the plugs will fire on the exhaust stroke, too, so don't go by that alone. if you remove the disty, line up the flywheel with the 3 marks and the cam on the driver side at 12:00. if you get 6:00, turn the crank again from there, rotate the engine until the 0deg mark shows. this will be your #1 cylinder compression stroke. drop in the disty, then run your wires. I hope the video helps you. There is also one pertaining to the timing belts themselves

you will have to extend the steering linkage. there should be enough wiggle room for the shifter, or you may have to cut out the hole to allow room for 5th and reverse, or make an angled shifter shaft. you should be able to get enough stretch out of hoses and wires, and the brake lines can bend enough if you take them off their mounts and relocate them with the flex room. the exhaust will be fine. the idea is if you space everything evenly from the body, all of the suspension retains the same geometry relative to itself. You may hav to modify the pitch stop bar, or at least adjust it, depending on how much lift. you might not have to with only 1.5 iches

It would be a good idea to copy the spare key and use the copy for daily use, while keeping the original nice and crispy for another reproduction should you need it.

if you are looking at the motor from the front of the car, #1 cylinder is the front left, with #3 behind it, #2 on the front right, and #4 behind it. I would think the wires are correct on the disty, but incorrect on the cylinders. The only time i have seen subarus backfire, pop, and not rev out is over crossed ignition wires. I would doubt you have a vacuum leak. please watch this video:

I like your style. in my opinion, making the xt6/ea82 control arm work is the way to go. As long as you understand my suggestion, you will be good to go. It sounds like an ea82 steering rack swap will elimintate any need for custom tierods. I have built the same setup to run all ea82 running gear in an ea81 wagon, with hybrid tierods(manual rack, power tie rods inner and outer) Just so you know, you can retrofit ea82/xt6 rear trailing arms by just drilling out the mount for the pivot bolt. They fit the same dimensionally, but you will have the added bonus of rear swaybar mounts. You would want to run spacers to match the width of the front track, as the dimensions will remain the same, using the same mounting points and axles. I would suggest retrofitting ea82 rear coilovers in the brat as well

Timing belts are to be lined up to the hash marks (|||) on the flywheel. I bet the belts are lined up to the 0 deg mark, which is not correct. This is not the forst time subarus wer given away or acquired for free over timing misunderstandings. You are essentially timing 2 inline twins on a common crank. You have 2 cams, although its a SOHC

I have a 94 legacy with the better cloth bolstered seats (GT wagon). I have seen the 1995 legacy (gen 2 ) with the same seats, but the 96 legacies had the cheaper gm type seats where the cloth is glued to the foam like some dodge neon. So far as i can tell, a 1st gen seat will fit in a 2nd gen car, etc. I wish mine had about 3 more clicks on the lumbar. I am 6' 2" and sit a little closer to the wheel with the seat more upright, as i don't like to have to lean forward to reach the radio/shifter/controls, and if i sit with too much gangster lean, i can't see around the a-pillar. I like ed's idea of the mesh seat cushion, as i have one at my computer, just haven't tried it in my car. I can usuallt ride comfortably 5-6 hours in my car, if i shift my butt-cheeks now and again and take my wallet out of my back pocket. it's not as bad as some other cars, andit takes me a good 2 hours to get uncomfortable. But even stopping for gas, pee, or whatever, walking a lap or 2 around the car helps to avoid sitting discomfort. The best seats i have had were a 96 volvo 960 wagon, leather seats that cradled like a hand. Best form fitting seat i have experienced, but fatigwue would set in sooner than my soob seats. I used the wooden bead seat covers and that made it much better for me. Most of my discomfort with that car was the lack of headroom for me to stretch out fully upright without having to crick my neck thru the sunroof, and this must have let to my seat fatigue sooner than in my subaru. My favorite for the novelty seating arrangement was an 88 lincoln town car droving from new orleans to milwaukee, with the seat all the way back and my leg up on my knee as if i was in a lay-z-boy maintaining my speed with the (working) cruise control. Wasnt too bad, since i could operate the car with the coast/resume/accel functions to meter my speed

That is not a plug or seal, but rather one of the bolts that hold the engine halves together. The oil accumulated around it is likely from somewhere else

Here is a diagram if it helps:

there is a solenoid on the carb that has to be electrified to allow fuel into the bowl. Otherwise, the engine would only run on the choke circuit. you are correct withthe disty wires, yellow goes to negative. run power to the positive terminal, and make sure your timing is a t 8 deg btdc, 1-3-2-4 counterclockwise, with #1 cyl being the left front(looking at front of motor) check that the disty is not 180 off

take the cap of when the car is running. Look for bubbles. Or lok for bubbles rising out of the coolant overflow reservoir. If you do have bubbles, but no milkshake in the oil, you can fix your problem with a can of block sealer. The best stuff willbe the blue liquid either at the soob dealer, or the 'blue devil; brand for 60 bucks. the more economical approach would be the k&w nanotech block seal in the green bottle. if you cannot find these brands, use a 'liquid glass' (sodium silicate) type block sealer. If you get into a head gasket repair, the current head gaskets available supersede the older design, andwillbe a permanent fix. avoid major temp spikes, try not to peg the temp meter. a mild overheat can be cured with block seal, but a major overheat will compromise the whole engine, heads, and internal bearings. if your motor does pop, the most economical approach would be to replace the engine with a 2.2 of the same generation, as they do not have the same HG issues by design. It will be a mostly plug and play affair, but 30 less HP