MilesFox

TAKE A LOOK AND YOU WILL NOTICE THAT THE ORIGINAL CONTROL ARMS CURVE FORWARD, AND THE ONES YOU JUST BOLTED ON A RE STRAIGHT. YOU (sorry caps, too lazy to re-type) will need to relocate the mount forward. if you can find an e82 crossmember, you can drill the spot welds to remove the 'ear' from the front part of the lower control arm mount and weld it on the ea81 frame, so that the front ear on the current setup becomes the rear ear. otherwise, you will have to ream out the balljoint hole to match that of the xt6 ball joint. going the route i suggested, you will have a wider front track. And if you have a manual steering rack, you are going to have to hybrid inner and outer tie rods to makeup that length. otherwide, the xt6 contrl arm is a direct bold in replacement on ea82 models

a water passage can be made to bridge the block with a hose or pipe, if some clever welding or engineering was designed into the custom setup

you will need to drill out the flywheel holes to match the crank on the ej22 engine, use this flywheel and pressure plate, with an ea82 clutch disc. If you can engineer a bellhousing adapter, it will be 1/2" thick (12mm). The lower studs will line up, and so will the pilot shaft. You would need to devise a way to make the top line up with either tapped studs or slotted holes. There is a bellhousing adapter vailable inusa made by one of the members of this forum. It is also possible to hybrid the ej and ea trans to eliminate the need for a bellhousing, but you will need a donor trans.

1990-1994 Legacy Turbo Sport Sedans An EJ trans can be swapped in using an xt6 trans mount, or a modified ej/ea hybrid mount. If you can rebuild the trans, you can hybrid the ej trans with the dual range from the rx, and take your choice on gearsets.

maybe the failure was due to the wrong type of fluid, as these require ATF dextron. Also i second tom, maybe the belt has been too tight causing a bearing failure. you can remove the pump from the bracket by inserting your tool into the holes on the pulley, remove the 3 bolts, and out she comes. Undo the PS lines at the pump.

take your 5mt from the tired car and put it in this one. less work altogether...

Buy it. drive it. "rust'where the paint chipped off is nothing to junk a car for, whencars onthe road have HOLES rusted through them where i come from. I know someone who sold a rusty midwest gl in califiornia. That seems like an impossible feat. for 200 bucks you would be a fool to pass it up...

It will kill your belt. The PS is on its way out, dont count on it for too much longer. i have one from a 1992 legacy if you will need one.

I was saying the xt6 caliper fits the same, although the bracket would be different with the larger rotors. good to know about the piston sizes, though.

2wd and 4wd calipers, brackets, backing plates, and discs are the same. Even the xt6 calipers are the same. the difference will be the HUB itself, the part the wheel studs are in that bolts to the rotors

88 dl cherry bomb in the middle, straight pipe to the rear. I simply cut out the center pipe to install the cherry bomb, andused the remaining length of pioe to replace the factory muffler, using factory mounts and this one, 88 gl sedan with cherry bomb right after the y pipe, and a 2 inch 90 deg turnout to the side, with a 2.5 inch pipe after the bend to just ahead of the rear wheel Watch this from 8:00 min to hear the car TheLoyale's safari wagon, 92 loyale 4wd at, factory exhaust with a cherry bomb in place of muffler at original location http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l64AbFuK5-s&feature=player_detailpage

Yo, i saw you had found us on the dirty impreza board! As far as towing with a brat, I have towed my 88 DL wagon with a tow bar from madison to milwaukee. I have also towed an 87 rx from fort wayne indiana to milwaukee(thru chicago) and an 86 3door from milwaukee to sidney, OH with an 88 gl sedan (2wd at to 4wdmt conversion) on a tow dolly at 60-65 mph across interstate highway, although you will find yourself in and out of 4th gear for the hills. The brat should hold down just fine, but the gear spacing is much different with a 4spd 4wd, and you still may have to downshift now and again to hold a hold down at 45-50 mph (but enough to keep up on an interstate highway), while 4th would carry 60 mph on flat road. The gearing will be good enough to get going and drive, 5th gear can hod down 60 mph, and if you can get above 60 mph, the engine power curve will hold down 65 easier than 60 (ea82 engine, 5spd mt). I did use lo- range to get rolling in stop and go chicago rush hour, mainly because there was slack in my tow bar setup, to not jerk as much stopping and going. I have also towed an empty u-haul auto transport with my sedan for the sake of returning the equipment, which weighs 2000 lbs by itself If you are towing locally, you can be alright with the right amount of experience, knowing how to tow trailers, handle sway, anticipate braking, etc. Even as i was towing, having a handle on my rig, i did experience brake lockup, and my car in tow would push me around a little bit while making turns, having to throttle up to maintain control. Aside from towing experience, the UNSAFE aspect of towing would be that the load in tow is likely heavier than the brat doing the towing, and the brat is much lighter than a gl wagon, and a little lighter than a GL sedan. Your limiting factor will be that the vehicle weighs under 2100 lbs, and any available hitch will be rated for 1000 to 1500 lbs. The rest is discretion and experience whether or not the vehicle is viable for towing. In my opinion, a miata on a tow bar would be ok if you are well experienced in towing, and you know the area/roads/laws where you will be towing to and from. Its the kind of thing that the rig will hold together to tow, but in any accident or crash, the hitch could just rip out of the brat if you cannot find a heavier receiver unit.

Overlooking the obvious(if this may be the case) that the 3 bolts in the middle of the head are SHORTER than the rest of them, and if you have one of the longer bolts in the middle, it will bottom out in the threads before it seats against the head and torques up. Pay attention to the lengths of the bolts while installing! Set the 3 shorter bolts aside together to keep track during the install/torque sequence. I have made this mistake and caught myself when the bolt was tight, but not all the way seated. good luck you can take the motor out of the car easily enough with the heads off. the short block weighs less than 100 lbs, and you could throw it across the room like a medicine ball. place a jack under the trans to raise the motor up just out of the crossmember mounting holes. have a buddy help you because i'ts easier than leaning over your center of gravity. you can assemble the rest of the engine on a bench, and then rent a crane to install it. Since you will have the motor out, it doesn't make sense to install the short block back in the car, and then do the heads/cam towers as it can be frustrating with the followers falling out as you try to install the cam tower before the ultra grey RTV sets up, especially for the distributor side.

You could possibly retrofit an impreza cat-back exhaust. you are stuck with the stock header, unless you can invent one, of find one of 15 twe headers made. If you just fabricate an exhaust, lose the center and rear sections, and install a 2" cherry bomb where the resonator is, and straight pipe out to the rear. The stock y pipe is just right for this engine

I would say radius rod bushings

Undo the '4wd turbo' plenum and lift it up. Disconnect the air hose from the bottom, and remove it. From there you should ba able to see a coolant hose that runs across the top of the block from the thermostat housing to the turbo itself. This is likely your leak. Other potential leak is the 1/4" hose under the intake to the top of the block. You would have easy access to this hose with a long screwdriver and by moving the alternator up. When this hose leaks, it usually nruns off the back of the motor by the bellhousing, or pools up in the #3 spark pluig

You can use one off an ea82 if you remove the iron spacers on the ea81 exhaust ports (if yours has them)

Try re-bleeding the brakes in a dual-diagonal fashion, starting with the RR wheel, LF, LR, RF. IF the hill holder is still functional, try bleeding the brake with the clutch depressed when doing the rears.

I would suspect the engine temp sensor, the one with 2 wires and the green plug on the thermostat housing. good luck. A new one will be litted for upwards of 95 bucks, maybe 45 at supplier cost. Or it's a pocket item at the junkyard if you bring a 17mm wrench. Unplug the sensor and see if the car runs different (closed loop)

The fabrication will be easy enough, but finding a 12x125 thread bolt long enough will be about impossible. i used square channel steel with bolts to the body from the inside on the top, and bolts with nuts on the bottom to the suspension. It is most ideal to have a long enough thru-bolt for rigidity. I built mine using leftover trailing arm bolts and lug nuts.... I took it out after the rear collapsed!

from my observations, it looks as if the quad headlight buckets are the same between ea81 and ea82

moisture freezing in the fuel lines? running the fuel that low would introduce moistue into the fuel lines/pump, and a low volume of gas would promote moisture condensation in the tank. try HEET

You haven't been on here long enough to have the full experience. Please don't go! If you left, someone or yourself will find you back over here anyway, because this is where it all starts..... I feel your sentimentin keeping classic soobs original. They are rare inmy woods, although i can findbetter examples in the junkyards in the PNW, but alas, i am in the rust belt. Good luck with your ea82. There have been successful ones. Just dont go on the fast and furious bandwagon and get all hyped about BOOST, because boost is too easy in a newer car.

try investigating the injector resistor, the ceramic piece encased in aluminum that bolts to the passenger side strut tower.

A lot of times i hae ordered fel=pro complete gasket sets, there was a mix of mexican made cam seals to OEM headgaskets in the mis, and oem valve cover grommets, valve guide seals, but paper/steel laminated intake and exhaust gaskets, and cork oil pan. if you get parts individually, look for NOK seals, and look for the metal/graphite intake/exhaust gaskets from FHI or victor reinz. Take the time to go to NAPA as oreilley isnt good for much more than oil and car care fluids, and plastic stick-on dress up garbage. Make sure you get a new pressure plate with the clutch disc, and to not overtighten the cable, just enough to take the slack out of the fork and that is it! once the cable is adjusted, then adjust the hill holder cable. your clutch set will be the one that cross references with ANY 4wd 5mt single range, dual range , or full-time transmission 1985-1994. the other exceptions a fwd ea81/ea82, ea81 4wd 4spd, and legacy/impreza for those range of years good luck!