MilesFox

where and who did you get the car from?

I have never milled any of my heads doing head gaskets and so far have had good luck. the belts probably broke because they were old. If the tensioners didnt seize, then the belt probably just let go from having new tension on it. Just like old trailers with old tires. the tires are fine until you air them up to full pressure, and then they fail. if the oil pump spins by hand, dont worry about it. Put on new belts and see what she does. Dontbe surprised if you get another 20,000 miles out of it as it is oh, leave the covers off the timing belts. That way if you break one, you can change it off the side of the road in 20 min and keep going

I had the exact same car, listed it for $1200, sold it for $900.I had done all the wheel bearings, new alt, batt, clutch, timing belt, windshield. Body was rust free, but had deer damage. 135,000 miles is fairly low, but its also about the exact mileage the original timing belt lets go if they never have been changed. you can see his price if the car has a service history. if there is no service history, drive the price down to $600-$800 as long as there is no obvious need for work like torn axle boots or broken exhausts. If the timing belt is due or breaks, dont worry, it's cheap and easy enough to fix yourself, and does not ruin the engine(non-interference) is the car 4wd?

possible scenarios: transmission was replaced before, and has the wrong final gear ratio compared to the rear diff. rear diff has been replaced and is wrong gear vs the trans front diff is failing, lack of fluid or wrong fluid

Even in FWDmode, the rear axles and diff and driveshaftare still rotating anytime the car is moving. If you remove the rear axles, the driveshaft anddiff will remain stationary. You can remove the entire rear axles, since the bearings are contained on its own stub. There are roll pins to remove on the outer ends of the rear axles, same as the insides. you can remove the rear half of the driveshaft with the diff, and leave the front half of the driveshaft mounted with the carrier bearing and into the trans. The driveshaft will be stationary sonce its not being driven in FWD, and there is no rear axles or diff to turn it. the spfi injector shuts down when you are off the gas, and only comes back on once the car is at idle(during decel)

Glad to see you got it done without too much complication. +1 for the spring clamps. If you have to do this hose again, or others like it, try a 5/16" hose

close enough, but that is actually a U-HAUL you are parked next to:lol:

close enough, but that is actually a U-HAUL you are parked next to:lol:

If you have the right screwdriver, you should be able to reach that hose by taking up the power steering pumpp, or just getting in there carefully. It can be done without removing the intake. make sure the hose you use is not fuel hose or you will have the same problem down the road

If you take the piece out, you can clean out the little holes by moving the parts and spraying carb cleaner in it. Search for 3AT governor service and you should find the write-up.

Pictures of it at Subaru Meets:slobber:

Classic symptoms of HG problems, at least with combustion gasses getting into the cooling system, pushing out coolant past the overflow jug, and losing coolant and getting hot. This would be a slightly blown headgasket as i would call it, and you should have good luck using a can of block sealer. I have had luck using this stuff on various toyotas and subarus when the radiator is bubbling exhaust gas. I use the K&W 'nanotech' block sealr in the green bottle. IT is a sodium silicalte "liquid glass" compound with copper flake suspended. Costs $20. Use only once the engine is flushed with pure, clean water, and no anti- freeze in the cooling system to use the stuff. Be sure to follow the directions on the bottle precisely. I would recommend to bypass the heater core with a 2 ft piece of 5/8" hose with e flushing tee in the middle to administer the product. The blue stuff is about $60, but would pose less chance of plugging the heater core. This should work to keep you going and may be a permanent fix. My 3.ov6 toyota u-haul truck has held out for a year of daily driving since using block seal.

if your donor trans is indeed a non turbo 5mt, with 23 spline stubs, it will be a 3.900 gear.

I have the LED trailer lights on the back of my 68 GMC flatbed. They are much brighter, but i did have to get an electronic flasher for $10 to have working turns. I have the LED maglites, and the LED is much brighter although the color temperature is more on the blue spectrum. The batteries last much longer, as i converted a 4 cell mag to LED with half drained batteries about 75% bright on the incandescent, and the light is 90% as bright as the new LED 3 cell mag with fresh batteries. I have a 2 cell AA mag light that flashes S.O.S, and i can't wait until the batteries go out so i can use the lithium batteries, which will take quite a long time on the alkalines, since i use this light almost daily, and keep in my pocket. I would think that modern day LED would have the super high output white LED in a reflective housing with a standard 1157 style base. You could easily enough do the dome lights as far as battery draw, any lights that are on when the car is not running.

Are you sure that its not the seam between the cam tower and the head? there is an o-ring there that seals off the main oil gallery to the cams. There is another o-ring present in the head gasket itself. it would be more common for the cam tower o-ring to fail.

This governor turns directly against the front differential. The car has to be moving to turn this piece. it is simple enough to take out and put back in. the gear at the end meshes to the diff. Look for any wear on the gear. There is no alignment to line up to on the teeth, so you can just re-insert it when you are done

go for a 1990-1995 subaru legacy, 2.2 135 hp. the first example of a 6 cyl subaru has 140, so you are not missing much. legacy is dime a dozen and you can get any complete car, either running, or needing some timing belt or axle all day long for 500 to 1000, or even less sometimes.

there are always turbos, 1983 and 84 for the brats and ea81. Good luck as you would be shopping for museum pieces

Pull the bumper, headlights, radiator, and front fenders, and splash guards.. 3/8" bit should do it for the most part. use the chisel to separate the stampings, and the rest will reveal itself. you may have to cut here and there, but you should see where you can tie pieces together with odd bits of metal or some clever welding. you can go to town on the donor car and just cut out around the bulk of the part, and then fish out the spot welds. By the time you are done with that, you will know where all the spot welds are on the receiving car. dont forget to pull any harnesses away where they are hiding between the stampings

What are you driving? Welcome!

you can use the impreza front hubs for the 5 lug setup-using custom axles. the workaround for this is to chop in some ea82 lower control arms, or at least the mounting point on the crossmember, to use xt6 or bored out ea82 control arms to have a track wide enough for un-modified non-custom (stock) axles. The trick to that is relocating the mount back behind the existing since the ea82 control arm curves forward whereas the ea81 is straight. this will make the front track wider than the front. you would be able to use wheel spacers to correct this in the rear, and use xt6 rear hubs for the 5 lugs. you can also retrofit ea82 rear trailing arms if you want to go with a rear swaybar, if you narrow it a few inches.

drilling out spotwelds. The rad core support is the same stamping as the whole front that contains the headlight buckets. There are spotwelds at the hood support bumpers, down along the front and around the box framerails. I changed the whole front core support and a crumple zone on an 86 hatch this way. Legacy should be similar enough. 3/8" drill bit and a cold chisel will do the job

i believe impreza adapters will work

You would be looking at 1/2" hose for the turbo coolant lines. You would have an easier time if you removed the '4wd turbo' plenum, and removed the belt from the alternator and swing it up and out of the way.