MilesFox

These cars like 30 wt oil. I would recommend 10w-30 as 5w-30 may be too light. You could probably do just fine with the HD or ND 30 wt oil. I have run 30 wt chainsaw bar oil in a ford pinto....(leaked profusely) I have also run 15w-40 and 20w-50 in these cars, depending on the mileage and how bad they leak At least the car has big enough oil galleries to not choke if the oil is thicker

whoops, i meant 3.7 rear diff for the lsd turbo

Sweetness! I just got into a 68 GMC 3500 stake bed for $350. Ran and drove, i had to tape up a hose and pinch off a brake line to get her home. $50 later and i had new brake lines, hoses, thermostat, and belt. Re-packed the front (DRUM BRAKE) bearing s ans was good to go. I got about 7-800 in it already with the $300 trailer hitch, and new fluids, wipers, roll-on rustoleum paint. 292 I-6 with 4spd manual 2wd If i had a picture i would show it to you. Good luck with this one, looks like a loto of promise and a good deal

Coolant sensor, indeed! It is located on the back of the intake manifold under the turbo. Remove the '4wd turbo' plenum for easier access. it will be there, with a brown plug that is the same style as the injector plugs. if you have a hard time finding the part, you may cross-refference with some nissan 240sx good luck!

92 legacy would have a 3.9 gear. sounds like you got a turbo RX trans, turbo being 25 splines, and dual range with the lever makes it rx. There will also be a vacuum diaphragm to lock the center diff. you indeed got the most desireable transmission available! go find a lsd 3.9 rear diff and turbo 5spd axles and you are good to go. also, you can use the vacuum solenoids of pushbutton 4wd dl's and gl's for the diff lock. otherwise you could sell that trans and buy 2 of the correct ones!

fuel lines could be on backward. The fuel pressure regulator is after the injeotrs and on the return side in these cars. the topmost center fuel fitting should be the inlet side. you have to be particular with the timing sequences to get them right. When installing the belts, there will ne 2 full rotations to align the belts, and then another 3.4 rotation to set the timing. watch these videos as this may help you

There have been updates and revisions, certain combinations of heads will fit depending on the generation of engine. Some stuff is retrofittable such as timing belt tensioners. aside from that, the bellhousings are the same.

low coolant?

You should be able to find regular seatbelts in 1990 legacy and maybe early 1991's

The car is FWD based, and then kicks in the 4wd to the rear. sumply leaving the 4wd button off will leave it in 2wd. The car needs battery to engage/disengage if you are towing, you can tow 2 up with it in 2wd and be ok. Otherwise, you can remove the rear half of the driveshaft, and still drive around as 2wd. the pneumatic struts are no longer available. Regular struts are a direct replacement, and is just fine

there may be an interference with the thermostat housing, but the ports would match. You could even flip the heads around and have the erg oprt on the correct side relative to the manifold. the thermostat itself is the same diameter of a chevy, so i think an aftermarket outlet would work.

do the timing belts if there is any one cost you should invest in first. Then, you will be reliable for the rest of the upgrades.

parts listings can be vague on these cars. there are production overlaps. the 2wd one will work if it fits.

1. Do you mean the cat in the y pipe, or the one in the center section. 1-7/8" sounds right, but some sections behind the heat shield might be 1-3/4" 2. Defrost. If all your settings only blow out of the dash vents, check the vacuum hose from the vac canister to the passenger side of the intake and see if it has come off. 3.Look near the bottom half of the back seat and look for a tool pouch with an allen hex valcroed to the carpet. You should be able to manually crank down the seatbelt where ot should be, and then just manually unclip it to get in and out. 5. door lock light is on any time any one door is not locked. To lock the front door from outside, hold the handle up as you close the door, or it will pop unlocked. this is an anti-lockout design feature. The rear doors have child lockouts to prevent the door from opening from the inside

A lot of times the HH doesn work properly because it is not adjusted properly. You adjust the clutch cable first, and then the HH cable. Bleeding the brakes can be tricky, but i found that if you depress the clutch while pumping the brake, it does a better job at bleeding the rear brakes

Preferably a paved road, one that ultimately leads to the tire shop.

make sure to take off the head shields, because there are markings on the cat housing that designate the grade of metal in them. I have gotten anywhere from $3.00 to $100.oo on junk cats. German autos have the most valuable. i would say a soob cat is worth between $25 and $50

Consider an ea82 model for lowering. With such a patform you can use fwd xt struts and do some mazda miata rear coilover struts, and have some compatibility with later model subarus with some mods and the right combination of parts. the best you can do with the brat is to set the adjustable suspension to its lowest settings.

Sounds like you have animosity over the girl more than the car. end of story. screw 4runners and blazers, i got the 69 GMC stake side.

its common for these cars to have a 3500-4000 rpm cruising at 65-75 mph. usually you get them with itty bitty 165 tires where the 4wd manuals had 175 or 185 tires. also most of these had a 3.900 gear. some of the 85/87/87 had a 3.70 gear, mainly turbos. 13's are harder to find these days, but i would go with some 185/70 tires if you canfind them.

remove the distributor first so you can get the engine in around the brake master cylinder. You might have to cut off a mounting tab on the disty or lock it funny for clearance also. good luck

ea81 and ea82 hubs fit the same.

That canister pieceinphoto 3 mounts behind the head. You can see the metl clip where the hose rests just below the spare tire

as long as you have the 5spds trans mount crossmember, its totally bolt in. The hole for the shifter is the same, and the shifter boot ring bolts up the same as the AT shifter assembly. You will have to plug off the vac line for the at modulator that comes off the back of the motor, that's it. this will be an easy swap. TIP: drop the steering column to switch out the pedal assembly. so you need: trans shifter crossmember(with its longer bolts and bushings) clutch/flywheel and its longer crank bolts pedal box about 3 hours of your time you can watch these videos pertaining to a loyale 5mt 4wd swap from 3at 4wd. everything applies minus the driveshaft. wrangling the trans will be easiest if you pull the motor, plus this gives you a chance to overhaul the engine seals vids: watch these in consecutive order, they cover pulling the motor, swapping trans, pedal box, and engine seals, timing belt, ign timing