MilesFox

The brown and black connecotors are for hecking continuity in the harness itself per the FSM diagrams, things like wiper and headlight circuit, etc, on the body of the car itself.

those green and white connectors are supposed to be unplugged all the time. they only plug in for code retrieval procedures. If your car idles funny and wont rev out, and the fuel pump clicks on and off, that is why.

someone in wisconsin would pay that much for that car if it had NO motor

just swap the harness dash and all. since these are the same generation of cars, you just carry over and replace parts, really no mods, cutting or splicing is necessary. want a turbo engine, swap harness, want digital dash, swap dash. the car has 3 harnesses. The engine harness under the hood which contains the headlights, horns, cruise, etc. The body will have a harness depending on wagon, sedan, etc. the dash harness connects between the 2. If you dong like the color of the dash, you can swap harnesses between them. you just have to take the time to expose and pull the harnesses. dont forget about the multitude of ground wires on the harness in random places. your swap should be direct with all the holes and mounts present dont forget to swap the engine crossmember so your motor fits as well

Fill the block by the upper radiator hose. You may have to wait till the thermostat opens to add more coolant. Try adding coolant to the bleeder plug on the left of the radiator. It is a bit tricky since the thermostat is on the bottom of the cooling system. Be careful, as it is possible to overheat during the fill procedure.

you can swap a carb engine or a manifold. The rest is inventing and retrofits

Try the K&W block sealar, the nano-tech version in the green bottle. Flush the system and apply using clean water.

my pleasure! see the vids http://www.youtube.com/milesfox "The Art of Subaru Maintenance"

T can be done fairly easily, but the area around the heater control is tricky and its possible to break mounting tabs if you are unaware of them. pop out the DEF and the OFF buttons to find the screws. do this first and it will make your life easier. Break off the mounting tabs and you will have a floating heater control or will be replacing the whole dash bezel once you accomplish this, its pretty straight forward

i second leaving the rear main seal alone as they rarely fail and only do so if the motor is cooked or had bad/no oil most of the time. here is one trick i will tell you now. place a jack under the trans to raise the engine up out of its motor mount stud holes so that it can move forward. are you using an engine crane? i have done the motor-forward job by just undoing the heater and rad hoses(pull the rad or at least take off the fan), but the trans needs to be raised to allow the engine to come forward. if you go this route, and decide to pull the whole engine, you are essentially there once you disconnect the fuel, throttle cable, harness connector and ground cable. if you want to reseal the cam/crank and oil pump seals, may as well just yank the motor out all the way(if you have a crane) watch these videos (The Art of Subaru Maintenance) from unhooking the engine anciliaries, to pulling the motor, to doing the clutch seals, and timing belts http://www.youtube.com/milesfox#p/u/31/LikIQxQBjxw

the dog peed on my nintendo ruining. it when i was a kid. some time ago in 1987 or 88. Then my mom won me another one at a company picnic raffle.

there is no relay in the ignition system, and you do not need a hi amp switch for the starter. the contacts in the ignition swithc itself are bad. a simple 12 or 14 ga wire will do. this circuit draws less then one amp, and momentary pushbutton stealthily mounted on the dash will do. tie in the hot side of the swithc to the fuse panel, to a fuse that comes on with the key. you can hotwire the button to crank the motor while its off for the sake of maintenance and belts.

you could remove the rear half of the driveshaft, lock the center diff, and drive it home as FWD until you get the part

aftermarket radio? i have has bad wiring from such that the marker lites would come on with the brake. this was a problem with the rats nest that used to be the radio

Haynes book

I used a press for the first time. I had a legacy axle that would not come out. things do get stuck...

True with the ea71 or ea81 markings just by the alternator. There are 2 versions of the ea71. earlier ones are physically smaller than an ea81 case. Theis is the one with the starter on the very top of the bellhousing. any ea71 with a side mounted starter are compatible with ea81 engines(manifolds, exhausts) and transmission bellhousung

that kind of stiuff you almost have to loosen up routinely to prevent them from rusting. I just replaced whole knuckles over the caliper bracket bolt breaking off:mad:

Go over and check the corrosion on the terminals just like you would for an engine temp sensor. *note* this car already has new plugs and wires*

At least you dont have to contend with airbox, washer jug, and framerails in the way with this one.

The transmission is not very difficult to replace. if you pull the motor, there are just 2 crossmember bolts , 2 axle pinsand the cooling lines and shifter to unhook, and you can pull the trans out from under the hood with an engine crane. otherwise, taking the trans out from under the car, you have the exhaust pipe to contdend with and the car has to be up off the ground enough. easiest to jack the car from one side if you do this. you will have more wiggle room for the axles if you pull the motor first. You can avoid popping ball joints or taking off a control arm this way.

I was suggesting either the evap solenoid or the knock sensor. Pull the codes with an obdII scanner, you can rent one from autozone or purchase one for about 60-120 bucks.

I have one for about 5 years now. it has been pretty reliable. one time one of the brushes popped out on me when the cap worked loose, but i just put it back in. there were times where i had to re-tighten the screws holding it together. so far it has never fail me, and i use it quite often

Bring yourself around the garage today if you have time. I would like to see the weber and contemplate the same for my 3-door:banana:I might have a disty part around although i have thrown a lot of that stuff out.

Motor mounts will fit the same, you need a bellhousing adapter and use the flywheel to the 4spd drilled out to fit ej22 crank. other than that its a drop-in, save for the wiring and the fuel pump upgrade. use a fuel pump from any ea82 spfi or mpfi(turbo) a rear diff fits the same as the old one i recommend a 5spd swap to handle the engine. I have driven a ej22 brat with the stock 4spd, and you run out of gear too quick in 1st, and find yourself having to shift too soon and the gearing is all wrong. Plus you will be doing fwd burnouts all day long just trying to drive if you get more than half way into the throttle search about 5spd swaps regarding trans mounts and driveshafts. I recommend an ej22 trans, you will basically follow the rules of a 5spd swap, this saves you the bellhousing trouble. you will have to swap the trans axle stubs from 25 splines to 23 splines to use the brat axles