MilesFox

Don't turn up the boost or you will blow it up. Good luck

Place a glass pack in the mid pipe in place of the resonator, and repace the muffler with a piece of straight pipe. Do all of your exhaust mods in the mid pipe and back, leave the factory header and cats alone so you don't compromise performance.

Same hub for 5x100 bolt pattern. there will be differenceds between aBS tone ring and wheel speed sensor, and different brake rotor and caliper combinations, but the bare knuckle will virtually swap with anything

You should have to push it way right for 3rd and 4th and battle your passenger's knee for 5th. There is a wide range of motion for the gears. There are 2 links for the shifter and 3 points of pivot. The shifter can be sloppy like rowing a boat for upshifts and throwing a hotdog down a hall way for downshifts.

Lust because it's a legacy don't mean that impreza parts won't fit. Good luck

This should be osted in the modifications or performance forums. The shop talk forum is for discussing tools, equipment, techniques, etc. Either use dryer clamps to ckamp the heat shileds, or just tear them off with pliers. Do not pucn out the carts as your car will never run right, get poor mileage, and sting your eyes with extra rich fumes. Don't do it. Do your exhaust mods by either swapping out the header itself, or do it with the midpipe and axleback. ditch the muffler and go straight pipe, if you ask me, with a glass pack in place of the resonator. There is much to be appreciated by removing the muffler alone. You may lose some torque but it will sound novel.

Likely ythe distributior timing is wrong, or the timing belts are installed wrong. If you get someone looking at it telling you there is no compression and tyou have bent valves on one side, the cam is upside down on one of the belts. Should be easy to fix, just make sure it is put together correctly. These models are known to get hot or fail heads, but usually because they are 25 years old with corroded radiators, old hoses, old/low coolant. but by themselves are reliable if the cooling system is maintained, and run within stock parameters, boost, timing

The AWD system osn a subaru is superior to that of a honda, as it is a true AWD and not a FWD with auxiliary power to the rear when needed such as the honda. The o4 honda likely requires an engine oil meeting api sm standards, as to not foul. Drain schedule should be 6 mo or 5000 mi and should use a semi-synthetic. Having engine trouble at 85,000 mi is unusual. With older hondas, i see clogged pcv valves pushing oil out of seals, but this is lack of service to that part. Hond also requires the proper fluids in the driveline. If the rear end is having trouble, i could imagine the fluid was changed, but perhaps was the wrong stuff. Buying low mile used cars is a gamble as it can be likely a car is traded in at 60,000 mi and never serviced, missed oil changes, been run out of oil, or consumer insists on cheap bulk oil when the vehicle requires a semi or full syn oil. Generally, high mile vehicles reflect a leel of maintenance to acheive that mileage. Good luck

This. same withthe oil pump sprocket. Perhaps the crank sprockets are stacked in the wrong order, misaligning the belt

This can be done by interccepting a switch in the FWD fuse under the hood. One could also intercept a switch tot he solenoid itself to lock in the 4wd 100%. Do this, remove a front axle, and you get RWD.

Today i got the car washed, changed front and rear diff, flushed the brake lines and rotated the tires. That along with an oil change mobil 5000 10w30 and mobil 1 filter. Pictures will come, consider this a build thread.

The flywheel can only fit on one way. I will line up one you thread all the bolts in. one of the holes is offset, so that the timing marks on the flywheel are true to the engine. You will not have to do any timing adjustments if you had not removed thebelts or distributor. You will want a clutch spline alignment tool, but there are some tricks to get around that.

DEF not an ea82 rdiator or legacy/impreza.

Iwould not object to it. 1995 subaru legacy outback is a desireable car for my tastes. It could be a salvage title for insurance claim, as minor damage will total out a low book value car. For example, hit a deer requiring a headlight, hood, and fender would total out a car, although the frame is not bent alnd allt he repair is bolt on. It's worth investigating I would say avoid it if it was in any side t-bone collision, but frontal collision ok if it was superficial damage. Maybe only engine or driveline parts were swapped, it could have been rescued from a salvage lot over a bat engine or whatnot.

I finally join the ranks of Impreza owners so that now i can fit into all the impreza groups on the social medias and such. 1996 impreza outback, 165,000 mi, original Idaho car, no rust, minimal body damages, newer struts and tire history, interior in fair condition with stereo missing and some parts in poor condition (hack job wiring in door panels, speakers) It did come with a hard wired inverter and a component stereo receiver. This car is 90% straight with a slight crease on the rear door and rocker sill. I presume the kid who had it put it in a ditch and thus sold it to pay tickets. This car will serve as the woman's delivery driving car, and also be our holiday travel car until i can repair the 98 forester. IT could possibly become the next TrashWagon candidate with a paint job and forester struts. It is an AT though. The best part is i picked it up for 800 bucks.

The rear swaybar tightens up the rear so it is easier to slide the car without it rolling around. This is most noticeable in tight cornering. mine had the 2.2 16v sohc n/a engine with 135 hp. The interior was the houndstooth tweed cloth instead of the velour.. Dark blue interior, pearl mica metallic paint

I scored a 96 impreza outback wagon for 800 bucks. It shows new struts and tire rotations in history, 165,000 mi, no rust as a western car. Drove it home 50 miles. It will need brakes, but for what i got it for, and its condition, it is easily worth 1500 bucks, if it weren't for the fact the stereo is missing ad the wiring is a hack job. This was an automatic trans. even for 1200 as it is would have been a deal.

Very nice. I had a 1994 virtually the same, badged as "Legacy GT" mine had the snowflake wheels, the rear swayboar, and the combo cassette/cd stereo from the factory. Mine did not have the headlight washers if that is what i am seeign in your photo. Mine had the sunroof and luggage rack, yours appears to have the touring roof. My car also had the plastic rocker sill mouldings

Here in the rust belt, a clen example can fetch 1500, be on par in price with used first and 2nd gen legacy. the last one posted for sale in the MW that i saw was half dented, half rusted out, had inoperable windows, bad exhaust, wanting 600. my opinion, in today's market, any catr that RUN AND DRIVE without needing to go into major work to be daily driving is worth rondabout 1000 bucks

The tensioner piece can unbolt fornm the engine. typically, you would loosen the hardware, then remove the bracket, change belt, and adjust the pulley part all the way down, and then bolt it to the engine within the belt then tighten.

A proper lift would raise all the suspension members equally to that of the trut tops. This way, the suspension retains its original geometry, a true body ift. Back in the day lift kits included all these pieces. You may find used units for sale in the forums. Otherwise, these parts are not hard to fabricate. Search the archives for lift kits for examples.

Thanx GLoyale for taking the time to post these schematics. This will be a huge help.

Well, the motor was put together in 2003 in the video. It was then swapped into a gl-10 and daily driven for 2 years. Then it sat for a while, parted out back into the rx, were it was again salvsged as the rx was junked. It sat around in a garage for 2 years again, and found its way into the infamous monster wedge xt. IT was installed in that beast several years ago, where the car has mostly sat trying to figure out tuning issues. This is not the motor's fault, but the recipient car's mix and match buld's fault. So far we are trying to resurrect the engine by getting its engine management installed correctly. You can follow this thread ( http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/146890-vacuum-diagram-needed-for-ea82t-wspider-manifold/ ) to follow up on this particular engine.

It won't run right without a closed PCV system. The PCV system is something that was corrected, to get a cross flow ventilation. My experince with ea82t's is rough idles and such were caused by ill fitting oil caps or dipsticks. We'll get some detailed photos next time. I had limited time to drive and pole at the car. I was afraid to drive it too far for the fear of having to push it back. I am not sure if there is difference between USDM aud AUS market for the same year. We get all the watered down EPA friendly crap here with all of its 115 hp.

This is not a matter of torubleshooting something that is wrong with it, but putting it together in a manner that it will work and be tuned properly.