MilesFox

i had sobs that would work with viirtually any key due to worn lock cylinders. i did however, have an 87 rx and an 88 sedan that coincidentally had the same key cut, and either key would work in either car in any lock or ignition. when i go junk'n, i'll keep the keys to cars i have already gone through. i got a key ring with some 25 keys laying around. every now and again a random key will fit in a random car. if i remember right, something like 1 out of every 65 subarus will have the same key code

i like to refer to this model as a pre-outback, since it is the outback trim line the year before going with the frame spacers and the taller wheels and lower gear. this trim seems to be 95 only, this car is exactly like the one i had as trashwagon8, except this one is auto where mine was stick.

it's been a while since i took welding class, but you will want to make your first bead to join the parts together, and then overlap your beads on each side to both pieces of metal. you can build up and fill in with multiple overlapping beads. a stick welder would be best for this type of welding. placement of the ground will determine how your weld will penetrate, depending on if you ground the existing frame, or ground the new metal. with a stick setup, you can do reverse polarity as well. sorry i am not knowledgeable enough to explain further. all of my experience is with crappy flux core welders. make sure you get a nice puddle going before advancing you beads, and push the electrode into the direction of the weld, with small circular or back and forth motions to keep the puddle fluid.

come on gary, no one is that daft.

please all, help jim out on this one. i am 350 miles away and don't have time to look at it, as i have been requested to do so. you guys just ask if there is spark and walk away. at least get some process of elimination going on. New cam and crank sensor, and different coil pack. jim, there is an ignitor module on the firewall just above the pitch bar. i have a harness for a 95 2.2, i can send you that part if yours is bad. so far we have verified a NO SPARK situation. jim, sorry i have been too busy to hollar back at you. desmond and i are planning a trip to dayton for a brat, and i'll see if i can stop by this weekend on the way through. expect me to show up out of the blue, that is probably how it will go. i'll bring some spare parts if i know i'll have the chance to stop through, this weekend sometime 4/17-4/18

the plug behind the starter is to access the pin that secures the throwout fork, since the throwout bearing is snapped into the pp, and this has to come out to remove the fork fro the bearing.(hydraulic clutch) you can get around this by removing the pressure plate bolts from the gap in the bellhousing to remove the engine, but you still will have to remove the fork to assemble the clutch to the flywheel before re-insall(using the same trans) itherwise the clutch disc is the same with cable clutch

bad cv. just be careful with accelerating on left turns, becuse that is when it is going to break. it wont make you crash. if the axle breaks, you can engage the 4wd to gt the car off the road. be careful, though, a broken axle can pop apart and tear up the caliper mount. if the axle does break, its easy enough to remove the inner side and roll on 4wd until you get a replacement

is the firing order correct? 1/3/4/2 counterclockwise. #1 cyl is the front passenger side. sounds like you got the belt sequence right. once going through the rotations, brong the timing mark back to the middle after 2 crank rotations(driver cam up), and then find your 0 deg mark and drop the disty. double check the firing order. let us know how it goes

we almost had one of these for 200 bucks. but for that price, it was sold by the time we had the chance to go for it. sweet find!

I wouldn't call it a restoration. mini-truck, i guess. a factory resto would bring more collector value for the effort into the car. it better have an ej with this hero in a half-shell(turtle shell hi-topper? )

open the door. on the end of the door at the top of the rubber molding, there is a screw at the end of the trim piece from the inside. peel back the rubber nugget at the top and you will find it. once you remove the screw, you can slide the piece off. hope this helps. this is how it was on an 05 impreza swapping an 02 door.

you mentioned mud under the car. sounds like you have mud packed in the rim, which will throw off the balance of the wheel. the mud was probably evenly distributed, and some of it broke away, leaving a lopsided chunk inside the wheel, and progressively threw out the balance as it broke up.

try filling the block from the upper hose. bleeding air is tricky on these. make sure the thermostat is open, the upper hose will become warm as soon as that happens. run the heat on full hot. if the head feels cold, there is not enough coolant in the system. the radiator may apper full during the fill procedure, until the thermostat opens and sucks it through, make sure to double check the level once the thermostat is open. make sure you can get enough volume of coolant in the block, because the thermostat will not open if the coolant is too low, and will result in an overheat. you can try holding the idle at 2000 rpms to move air through. a new water pump is the best insurance for reliability, followed by a better radiator.

I have gotten a few 200 dollar bikes that sat for 10 years running by simply cleaning the carbs and using fresh gas and battery. the bike wont run right without an airbox, and them sum***************es can be difficult to put back on. make sure to flush the brake lines with clean fluid. BE CAREFUL if you try to ride, because the front caliper may lock up if there is rust on the exposed piston or inside the caliper. i stress this because my suzuki 550 sumped me over trying to go from a stop with the hanging brake. it was enough for me to put the bike away, and i didnt ride again till my buddy handed me his ex500 ninja that he did a frame swap to, and i freaked out when i go for the rear brake and nothing was happening due to the mis-adjustments after swapping the wheels. aside from all that, just have respect for the motorcycle, watch other traffic, use defensive driving and you will be safe. oh, and a helmet:) dont forget to rebuilod or clean the petcock. i have seen insect carcasses packed inthe petcock on the last bike i got running.

put some oil on the rubber seals to prevent them from slicing themselves during the install. just to give you an idea of the integrity of the oil pump, i had serviced a running engine that had the check ball on the oil pump pried out and missing, no inner oil seal, and missing a bolt. pretty simple to do. make sure you can turn the oil pump sprocket freely before torquing down the bolts. you can test your oil pressure and prime the system by mounting a 12mm socket to a drill and spinning the shaft before installing the belts, to make sure everything is good before operating the engine.

i have done the swap. you will have to reorient or eliminate the egr where it interferes with the bellhousing. you will have to flip the gear on the distributor and extend the pigtail. you might have to cut a tab off the disty and clock it in a manner that fits, and set the rotor to whichever terminal will correspond to #1 after shoving the whole works together. the ea82 exhaust pipe will fit the same. the ea82 pipe is longer at the flanges, you can remove the iron backfire valve plates from the ea81 exhaust ports if you like, but it's not necessary. use ea82 flywheel or flexplate and the ea81 bolts. the timing marks are all different between ea81 and ea82 by some 30 deg, make sure you un derstand how to find TDC or to properly transfer the timing marks between flywheels. an ea82 water pump will bolt onto the ea81 engine, allowing you to use the ea82 radiator, and the hoses will match the spfi intake. you can set up and bolt on all of the ea82 alt, ps, and ac. some bolt holes on the block are there, some are not, but enough to hold it together. you might have to be clever to mount the ac bracket. using ea82 ancillaries and ea82 water pump will match the pulleys between themselves, but the ea81 crank pulley groove will be about half a belt's width too shallow, but it can work. you can do this if you are scarce with ea81 brackets and pumps. i am recalling this form memory on a swap i did at least 8 years ago. i have done enough ea82 swaps into ea81 cars using ea82 or ea81 intakes(carb)

i believe a 1365 from napa is the small filter that i got doing an oil change onan 05 legacy. my 94 legacy calls for a 1334, which is the larger unit and should be backward compatible(hopefully) for ea82's the filter calls for a 1361 in all the ea81 and ea81 motors. I have been using motorcraft(ford) fl1-a filters on my ea82. the application calls for 5.0 ford v8. this is a big filter. it will not fit on an ea81 because the crank cse gets in the way. the fl1-a does not fit on ej motors because the tread is different. the fl1-a DOES fit on my 78 toyota 20r engine. i have used them and been ok. i have heard of the filters leaking from other people that used them. the variable may be the installation itself, how tight, etc. this goes along with the topic so i thought i would share my experience.

i have a spare one for ea82, cork gasket, leftover from the 'bottom end conversion' set the part is called the oil separator or crankcase breather plate gasket. i can mail it to you in an envelope if you still need it. send me an address, and i'll mail it out for whatever its worth to you. milesfox@yahoo.com i have other odd ea82 gaskets, let me know what you need and i can mail them together.

original belts can last 135-145,000 miles. with your mileage its likely the belts have been done before. assuming the belts were done, the water pump should have been done too. it wouldnt hurt to remove the belts and inspect them and the seals. you might get away with just replacing a few things. the idlers and tensioners should roll smoothly, and have a smooth rolling resistance. if they sound like skateboard wheels, its time to replace them. just get a good look at everything. i have a car where the previous owner had the timing belt and water pump replaced, but all the front end seals were leaking allover the belt, because they did not do the seals when the belt was installed. oh, btw, i am an advocate of running naked belts. i have had to do belts on the side of the road, and open covers made my day by making the repair with 2 tools (12mm deep socket and 3/8 ratchet, and a 22mm wrench) and 15 min of downtime

its a direct swap. roll the windows up to unbolt them from the motor arm. then roll the arm down to remove the motor assembly. install in new door, plug everything in, use the power door panel. the plug ins already exist behind the kick panels and the b-pillar trim. you might have to switch over the regulator relays which are located under the carpet below the driver seat for rear glass, wagons and sedans are different. just use the glass you have if you are going between bodies

my 86 brat had 285,000 miles when i sold it. it got crashed and totaled afterward i had a 95 'outback' wagon with 258,000 miles, sold it to some chick and someone else said they saw it running around a year later my toyota camper has 305,000 miles on its original clutch, timing chain, and water pump. still have it. do head gasket repairs count? seems to be routine versus bottom end rebuilds. i think a headgasket repair would qualify if the heads are the original ones, and the bottom end remained the same.

baybe a tire imbalance? rotate the tires rear to front and front to rear, and see if the vibration moves to the front, if so, your problem is the wheel itself. if not, look into wheel bearings. there is no alignment on the rear suspension, the only thing that can be out of adjustment is something that is bent. if you feel vibration in your seat on accel or decel, maybe you have a bad u-joint on the driveshaft.

should be a direct plug in. worst comes to worst you might have to switch intake manifolds. i swapped a 2.5 out for a 2.2 on a 97 outback, and the only thing that was different was the ac compressor, all i had to do was switch over the bracket. keep the old 2.5 and do the head gaskets, this way you have a spare motor, or something you can sell for a premium to someone who needs an engine

pulling the motor is the way to go. it will come out within an hour, and will save you loads of time working between the framerails, and much frustration when assembling the cam towers and followers. and if you are doing one head gasket, do both. remember you have steel bolts going into aluminum threads, so be careful not to over-torque. plus, having the otor out of the car gives you the chance to do the rear seals if need be. its a rather simple motor to work on, its just different than anything most folks are used to. if you want to avoid pulling the motor, just remove the nuts from the engine mounts-to-crossmember, the pitch bar at the top of the bellhousing, and jack up the trans to raise the engine a good 4 inches for better access. if you decide to yank the motor from there, just sling a crane and undo the 4 bellhousing nuts and out she comes. you will perform a better quality job and have better control of your torque wrench if you have an engine stand to use