MilesFox

should be dime a dozen out your way. out in more rearer areas, a price from 100-150 is reasonable for a dual range trans. if you can get them cheaper, you should ship them to me!

order for a 1990 loyale 4wd 5spd, you cant go wrong. the smaller disc is for fwd's

^^^ patience is key. you can try holding the idle at 1500-2000 rpm to help circulate the coolant. you will want a nice swirl inside the radiator cap once the thermostat opens. if filling the block by the upper hose doesnt work as well, you could try to fill the block through one of the heater hoses. this will get coolant behind the therostat in the water pump housing. with the way the cooling system is designed, the air pocket gets stuck somewhere in the driver side water jacket, and takes some persuasion to move it through. be careful and watch your temp gauge

hey, dont give me all the credit:) Glad to see you undertook the project yourself. in the end, the work on these cars is not terribly hard to do, versus getting around to it! check the water pipe on the WP and see if that is leaking. there is an o-ring, and the new water pump should have included that. try loosening the bolt on the water pipe and give the thing a wiggle, try pushing it in more or pulling it out slightly to see if the o-ring seats better. good luck with your car, i am a fan of keeping these cars alive, and people taking the time to get to know them and take care of them. congratulations!

suspect the coolant temp sensor to start with. it is located on the water crossover pipe under the intake

whoops, i misread too. simply switch out the trans itself(and shifters) the rest of it uses the same driveshaft, axles, and clutch/pp/flywheel

try some heat and pb blaster. you can also insert a screwdriver between the caliper wndow and the rotor vents to hold the whole works still. the easiest thing to do would be to loosen the nut with the wheel still bolted to the hub and all the weight of the car on the wheel, brake set, in gear. you just may need a good 4 ft long pipe to slip over your breaker bar.

could be a water pump leak or an intake manifold leak. the water pump will leak out of the weep hole behind the pulley or the water pipe o-ring where it goes in the side of the pump. usually these leaks run down the front of the engine and drip off the exhaust. an intake leak will puddle up on the top of the block in one of the spark plug holes and drain out the back of the head. i would suspect these 2 ideas before going into cracked heads. can we see your pics?

NGK wires and plugs are the oem replacement

napa will be better about parts availablility. i'll bet that was the factory original timing belt, which usually holds out till about 140,000 miles before they let go, with my experiences. do the cam and crank seal while you are there. a new water pump will be the single most important part for the longevity of the engine(cooling system)

you can pull the rear axles, and leave the diff and driveshaft isntalled. the diff and driveshaft will remain stationary so long as the car is in FWD, and there are no rear axles turning it.

the green plugs are for setting the disty timing. leave them unplugged for the moment. the white connectors are for clearing the codes. leave both sets unplugged and run the car. the led should be functioning then.

make sure the axle nut is torqued and staked properly, since it hods the wheel bearing assembly together. usually sounds like that are associated with failed bearings.

these motors can be tricky to bleed the air out of. try fulling the block from the upper hose to get some coolant in the block, and unscrew the little bleeder on the radiator. you may have to add coolant in the bleeder when the car is running. run the car til the radiator becomes warm, and also the lower hose. once the lower hose is warm, the thermostat has opened, and you can continue to fill in the radiator. if you are afraid the heater core may be clogged, try reversing the lines to backflush it. hope this hepls you. it is possible to overheat during the fill procedure, so be careful. there needs to be enough volume of coolant for the temp gauge to read it. if the coolant is too low, there will be a steam pocket as the block gets hot, but the gauge will read cold. overall, a dry engine will take on about 2 gallons of coolant

just pull the whole motor, it will be much easier. do both head gaskets, put motor back in. its relatively easy to do if you go about it the right way the motor will sit nice in a 5 gal bucket or a milk crate, or on a work bench squared up with 4x4 wood blocks. the trick is to unbolt the motor mounts from the crossmember and jack up the tranny so the motor clears the frame. this will give you better access around the framerails.

i put the smooth side against the head. you can get studs in the 'HELP!" brand from autozone, either a pair of studs, or 3 studs and 2 bolts in the 'gm/toyota(corolla, geo) set. sometimes the threads dont want to hold torque. its best to thread in a stud first, and then the nut. this way the torque is squeezed up by the nut instead of the threads in the head.

Helmholtz snorkus

i forgot about s-k, i used to have a 1/4-3/8 dr set. i guess i got too used to harbor freight lately. when i worked at u-haul we had k-d tools, very similar to s-k, real nice

135,000 miles, fresh head gaskets and engine seals. I may part my car in the fuuture, and if so, what would a good engine be worth? with or without harness, or running still in the shell of the car, to be taken away with the car?

change the coolant temperature sensor. plugs and wires will only result in the same driveability you have now. the CTS is going to play a huge role in the overall engine manegement.

its a direct bolt in if you have all the parts. along withthe trans itself, you will need its crossmember, the body bolts for it, the driveshaft(its a different lenght than the AT, and of course, the flywheel and its bolts. the 5spd dual range is a 3.9 gear. check your rear diff for the gearing on the sticker. if its 3.9 also, you can use it. there is no mods to the shifter hole. the shifter boot fits in the same holes as the shifter mountf or the AT pretty simple to do. it will be easier to install the trans if you remove the motor first, swap trans, and reinstall motor. take this chance to do engine seals

try giving the cam sensor a wiggle. i had this problem and that is what i had to do to get it to start. i had a 95 that had trouble starting, and i suspected the engine temp sensor. cam sensor or engine temp sensor, i bet.

my roommate just did the same repair. he re-soldered the connections and was good to go. that is the trick as it has been documented

put a jack under the transmission to raise the motor up out of the crossmemer. do the same when you reinsall the motor. use a pry bar and gently wiggle the motor away, if you already have a gap. a putty knife and a flat screwdriver work to start a gap to gey your bar in there.

check the wore to the oil sender, it runs down along the dipstick tube and plugs into the oil pump. its possible the wire came off. check the ground wire on the water pipe by the battery. the big one goes to the fender, and the small one plugs into a clip near the coil there is also a ground wire on one of the intake bolts on the manifold for the engine harness.