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MilesFox

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Everything posted by MilesFox

  1. an ea82 5spd will bolt in if you ise the flywheel, driveshaft. the ea81 crossmember will mount on the ea82 trans. you will have to fabricate a mount for the carrier bearing. an ea82 engine will fit. you can modify the disty by flipping the gear and making longer wires to run it in an ea82 engine, and the ea81 carb manifold will fit on an ea82 motor if you eliminate the egr valve. you can swap in an ea82 carb motor using its intake and disty, just connect everything. the disty may interfere withthe master cylinder, its easier to install the motor fitst, then the disty. you might have to cut off one of the mounting tabs and clock the disty over and set the rotor and move so that the #3 wire is #1. i have swapped several ea82's into ea81's, its mostly a direct swap.
  2. harbor freight is good for buying cheap socket sets. they are as good or better than cheap 20 dollar 'mechanics tool set' that you find at wal mart. cheap sockets get by just good, and are good for the price, easy to replace. spend your money on a good RATCHET, since chap ratchets are annoying to use. use 1/4 drive on small bolts such as on the fender, and 10mm bolts on the motor(t-belts, oil pump, etc) use 3/8 drive for most of the other bolts, 12 and 14mm. use 1/2 dr for suspension bolts 17 and 19mm dont forget open end/box wrench, sometimes a good ol wrench is easier than a ratchet. 8mm thru 22mm offset box wrenches are great for pulling engines, 12mm for the flex plate bolts, 14mm for the bellhousing, 22mm for turning the crank if you get gear wrenches(ratcheting) 10mm is great for clutch fan and valve covers. 14mm is great for the bellhousing you could buy this whole assortment at harbor freight for within 100 bucks. you are better off with smaller tool sets vs one big set in a case. the big sets are too east yo bump into and knock all the sockets out of their places, and its tedious to keep organized. individual sets in a case are ideal, such as your 3/8 tools in one set, 1/4 in another set, metrics or standards in their own sets. having a case makes it easy to see what tool you have out by which ones are missing from the case, makes it easier to not misplace tools. ea81/2 axle nuts are 36mm, ej cars are 32mm
  3. at first i was like "oh, no carbon fiber" But it looks good, excellent workaround the body work on the hood. the blue scoop looks good against it. great job. mad skills with the shifter console:headbang:
  4. earlier 2.2s from 90-96 models are the more reliable ones. leter models 2.5's often had head gasket issues around 150,000 miles if you want something relaiable and go from 85 hp to 135 then a normal ej22 would be the most practical and reliable option you can make the swap work with the 4spd trans for now, and then upgrade to a 5spd trans and carryover any bellhousing adapters to it the easiest way around having to make a bellhousing is to use an ej motor and its trans, but youwill have to modify driveshaft and trans mounts. you might be able to find a 5spd legacy or impreza for cheap, since having a complete donor car for a swap is the way to go vs sourcing parts individually
  5. bleed the line at the wheel cylinder by undoing the line. i have done it this way to work around a broken bleeder. its not 100% but definately better tnan no brakes. if your car is manual transmssion, hold down the clutch so fluid can move through thte hill holder to the rear.
  6. how about the ignition ignitor inside the disty? i had a car that did this, it would crank and crank, and then fire up as soon as you let off the key.
  7. just so you know, the subaru transmission does not have a separate transfer case, but instead a gear reductiion before the front diff. the rear wheels are driven from a shaft directly from the front diff. depending on how much you will build, a nissan transfer case can be installed if you are doing custom suspension/frame and axle setups. there are a few examples if you search if you want a dual range out of the box, look for the earlier models 85-88. later models got stuck with single range 5spds. spfi (86, 87, 88-94)would be most ideal for reliability, unless you are good with carbs (85-87.5) turbos can be fun, so long as you have enough sense to keep up with maintenance, oil, cooling, etc. otherwise, 85-95 gl/dl/loyale are all mechanically identical less the difference between carb/spfi/mpfi turbo. but 5spds can swap out into automatics and so on and so forth
  8. if you are having the clutch done, have your mechanic replace the seal on the breather plate behind the flywheel. 99% chance the rear main seal is fine, but usually when you have a leak at the rear of the engine, its 99% the breather plate. your mechanic might have an easier time if he just pulls the motor out of the car. perfect opportunity to do front seals and tbelt/water pump. off the shelf, the clutch set should go for 175, and the engine seals about 7-10 bucks apiece(a little more for the rear seal or valve covers). timing belt 30-60 bucks, and water pump 40-60 bucks
  9. you will hear arguements about swirl and fuel mixture condensing inside the intake. maybe you can rough up the surface inside the intake? the draft is going to alternate between each cylinder bank since aech bank fires almost simultaneously. you may want to make some sort of riser that gets wider towards the bottom with a vane in the middle
  10. if you have that idea, i would say cut out the middle of the cover below the crank pulley, so the cover can be lifted off around the pulley instead of having to remove the pulley. the oil pump sprocket will be exposed, but that is so tight a clearance nothing will get in there, and you still have the tensioner pulleys covered up. if anything is leaking inside, it will drip out of the bottom of the crank anyway. you know, this is a good idea i haven't thought of before. its a good workaround to make a timing belt job easier next time without being caught naked:lol:
  11. you might not get much wheel play on a subaru with bad bearings. when i had a bearing go out on my ea82, i replaced the wrong side at first, there was virtually no slop with the double bearing setup, even though the inner bearing was disentegrated(by this time the wheel bearing was louder then the radio). just an idea. you should go on your wheel bearing suspicions...vague steering is the first clue before any noise or slop
  12. you could take the time to paint the suspension components, with enamel(brush on rustoleum) if you want to prevent rust. up here in the rust belt, i have seen trailing arms split in half from rust, the welded seam would rot out on them. just a suggestion if you want to take your time with stuff. sand and dirt will accumulate in the torsion beam as well. try to dig out any sand or mud that has accumulated behind the mudflaps, wheel arch, and rocker silld, and especially behind the shock mount tower, since those are prone to rust out. also clean up the edges of the gas tank since sand and dirt will accumulate there as well, and that is where the gas tank will leak if it fails from rust. also, on the passenger side, remove the cover plate for the fill tube and clean/paint that as well. my suggestions are for salty winter regions, but it doesn't hurt to prevent rust any way you can since its apart.
  13. maybe a bad ball joint? usually they rattle over bumps. also, if the wheel bearing is going out, the rotor will walk around in the caliper bracket. both of these will cause handling issues. the latter could possibly throw off the abs because the tone ring and sensor are not truly aligned, and would give a different signal. if you have a super crappy tire, try rotating it out with one of the better ones and see if that changes anything.
  14. your compression looks good. if you continue to have trouble, spray some carb cleaner around the intake gaskets. it wouldn't hurt to do them anyway, as was in my case.
  15. sounds just right for the application. the car should handle 1500 lbs with no sweat. i have towed 2500 and 3000 lbs behind a fwd gl sedan across 300 miles. but that kind of load is only safe with an experienced driver. do you have a hitch alrteady? the commercially available ones (valley, curt from u-haul) are rated for 2500 lbs and 250 tongue, 1-1/4" drwawbar and 1-7/8" or 2" ball.
  16. if not the cable, maybe the pressure pate is worn out. with a worn pressure plate the clutch will drag, the gears will be sticky, and you would have to tighten the cable too much imagina one of those toys that looks like a ha;f ball that you push the middle inside out, and a fre seconds later it pops out and jums in the air. this is similar to how the clutch pressure plate disengages, when the middle is pressed in, the outer pops away from the clutch, and vice versa
  17. i just took the covers off my new-to-me 94 legacy. previous mechanic installed new timing belt and water pump, but not the seals. the belt was COATED in oil being covered up, where open covers would have leaked the oil to the ground instead of slinging it all over the belt. i can see your point when it comes to moisture or road salts for the sake of the tensioner pulleys, though. the only thing that gets me is people are afraid of the belts wearing prematurely with open covers, but, its obvious you can VISUALLY INSPECT the belts any time you are under the hood, and replace them in FIFTEEN MINUTES off the side of the road if they do let go.
  18. i can host the file for download on a web server if you want it hosted somewhere to link to
  19. you can get a vinyl dye spray paint that is specifically for vinyl interior parts. i would think the krylon might flake off. the krylon should be ok for center consol parts and other hard plastic. i have seen a while interior painted with black vinyl dye over blue. it looked uniform, but some of the plastic bits looked a little glossy. i would say dye on the vinyl and krylon on the hard plastic. make sure to clean the parts very will with soap and water, remove them from the car if you can.
  20. if you leave the seals alone, do yourself a favor and leave off the timing belt covers. you will thank yourself next time you do seals or a water pump. take the time now to remove all the pulleys and remove the inner timing belt covers behind them. the cam seals are super easy, the cam retainer comes off the car, and you can change the seal on your work bench. btw the pics in the article are from an 87 rx turbo you do not have to replace the springs on the tensioners. they are just there to hold the tensioners in place until you lock them down. you can simply hold the tensioners tight by hand when you tighten them up. make sure you have all the slack out of the drive side of the belts before tightening them(top of belt on pass side, bottom of belt on driver side)
  21. if you can get the turbo gl-10 for cheap, it would be a good candidate t fix and flip. some high school wrx fanboy would probably buy it because its a turbo subaru, fanboys always end up with grandma's gl-10 and join the forum asking what kind of turbo they can put on it. the low miles would help i sell. otherwise its worth the AT for parts, and the engine for parts, and the body to build on(find a carb model donor with dual range and swap in)
  22. use a long bar and place it from the front of the car over the control arm under the axle and butt it against the radius rod bushing. push down on the bar and push the knuckle towards the car and the ball joint stud should fall in. this is my one-man technique.
  23. you can jack up the engine for better clearance, but there is a proper way. instead of going by the oil pan, jack it up by the trans by the front diff. remove the pitch bar first. this is what you do if you were pulling the motor also
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