MilesFox

axle nut should be torqued to 145 ft lb. the flat washer goes on one way. make sure it is not backward. sounds like you have a axle nut/washer/torque issue. use red grease, not yellow grease

save yourself the cost of a new oil pump. you will be fine just doing the oil pump seals. your problem is most likely leaky cam tower o-rings. if you invest in a new pump, you will likely have the tick still if the cam tower o-rings are not replaced. ditch the timing belt outer covers and the covers behind the cam pulleys. do the cam seals while at it. with naked covers, you can replace the water pump without removing the belts or anything else.

i am assuming you are using the ea81 mechanical disty. just connect it to the coil directly. the yellow wire is for negative, the black wire is positive. if you are using an ea82 flywheel, the ignition timing marks will be different for the ea81 engine. you are going to have to use the pencil in the cylinder trick to find TDC for #1. follow the thread about tomrhere's 88 gl-10 with the ea81, as there is discussion about the flywheel timing marks

if you notice the ea81 control arm is straight, and the ea82 curves forward. you will have to relocate the ea82 control arm if you are using that. you will have to make a tab behind the control arm mount, and move it back, where the back portion of its mount is now the front. you can salvage the rear mount portion from an ea83 crossmember and weld it to the ea81 crossmember to accomplish this. its hard to explain without pics, but i am probably the only one who did it this way. if you could search way back into history, i got the idea from 'rguyver' posts on the old usmb

the 'dog bone' piece between the firewall and the top of the trans. remove it(you will need to anyway) and remove the bracket that goes around the little access cover(on top of the motor) there is supposed to be a cover on the bottom. are you trying to undo the bolts from underneath?

nice trick with the yoke plugging the seal. A spray paint lid and a rubber glove works for that purpose, also I pulled a whole lum pn an 83 wagon, fwd 5spd, NEVER AGAIN! i see you removed the trans mount, that looks a lot easier. poersonally, though, dont the motor and trans separate is easier for me. I could consider pulling the 2 together on newer ones, but has anyone INSTALLED motor/trans together? btw use caution with cinder blocks, i have heard stories of them failing. you would be better off with wooden blocks or logs, even.

use a box end off set wrench. or, you can remove the pitch bar bracket and get in there with a short 12mm socket, and but the tool against the bellhousing for leverage. once you break the torque, the bolts will thread out by hand

the center console on loyales with the tall console(automatic seatbelts) works good for my cup o coffee. with a regular console the spot between the shifter and the brake lever has always worked. i have always had the idea of using a grand am cupholder(the one that comes out to reveal the ashtray) and drilling a hole in the flat spot on the dash to hold a can of beverage. the flat spot on the dash will hold down a coffee mug just fine, so long as i dont drive like an idiot. a hot cup of coffee on the dash or in your lap is a perfect speed control device!

the struts are entirely different in an ea82. the spring is smaller in diameter, and outback springs might be too big to shove into the ea82 strut. the way around that is to swap in a whole legacy/impreza/xt6 knuckle and strut with the ea82 tophat. the rear strut is all the way different and you would have to go the accord spring or miata coilover conversion for the back. numbchux would be the kuy to answer your questions in that regard

remove the pitch bar at the top of the trans, and jack up the engine by placing the jack under the front diff portion of the trans. this will clear the framerails easier for you to try and pull the heads. plus, the motor will be in the position to come out of the car, if you go that far. use an offset wrench on the TC bolts. if you remove the pitch bar bracket you can get in there with a short 12mm socket and brace it against the bellhousing to break the torque. you can remove the top of the airbox, and the washer fluid reservoir for more clearance.

i drove 4500 miles on collapsed lifters. make sure to change the cam tower o-rings. if those are bad, no amounts of seafoam, mystery oil, or oil pump seals will cure it. the engine i had sounded like a ball peen hammer at idle, and replacing the cam tower o-rings with lifters from another motor with half the miles cured it. this was after replacing the oil pump and seal. this engine had 213,000 miles when i fixed it. it rolled over 200,000 on that 4500 mile road trip

the ac compressor can be swung out of the way without opening up the lines. unbolt the compressor itself from the mounting bracket

I would say yes. i have used a 1993 transmission in a 95 legacy, i was able to fit an xt6 knuckle in the 95 legacy. there may be differences with the rotor or caliper bracket, but just swap over the parts you need. there will be differences in the strut top bolt spacing. the knuckle end of the strut is the same. use the 1st gen struts, or at least the 1st gen strut tops on a 2nd gen strut(if you are using the strut too)

you will need some sort of press or special tool to press out the old wheel bearing. aside form that, you can remove the knuckle yourself, and pay for only the labor required to press the bearing, and reinstall the knuckle yourself. trickiest part will be the ball joint. you can undo the pinch bolt, or you can use a ball joint separator. you may want to get an alignment afterward. if you mark the location of the strut cs the knuckle(make a shadow with spray paint) you can come very close if not exact with the alignment.

once you have it apart the first time, if you leave the belt covers off, it will save you a lot of disassembly to remove the belt. you will have to remove the crank pulley to view the mark on the crankshaft sprocket.

i meant to just put tension on the cam pulley in the direction to take up slack on the drive side of the belt. you might get about 1/8" of a turn at most. i have seen numerous cars with pulley/belt grooves in the timing belt covers. the plastic warps over time. not necessarily a cause for alarm, i have seen it on several models with various mileages. do the right thing and just ditch the belt covers! if you are insistent on having belt covers, i have a complete set off a lo mile engine. make an offer if you want them, otherwise they may just go to trash if no one uses them up.

ii will be tearing into my xt6. i'll keep you in mind. not sure if i'm parting the interior, but if i do, you are welcome to all of it. send me an email so i can keep you in my contacts list, if you are interested in mine(if you don't find any locally) milesfox@yahoo.com

wheel bearings can be kind of vague. sometimes they wont even make any noise. one thing to watch out for is how your steering feels. when the bearings go on one side, the steering will react faster one direction and be dealyed the other direction. you will have different symptoms depending on whether the inner or outer bearing is failing. an inner bearing faulure is a little more obscure. good luck and let us know what you find out. i'll put my money on a wheel bearing

now if only the rest of the world will realixe that a blown headgasket is NOTthe end of the world...... congrats for taking the effort to fix it right. i see too many part-out subarus just because the headgasket went.

i have been eying up this car on craigslist. there is a dual range lever in the one pic.

should be m6x1.0 thread. take out one of your fender bolts and bring that with you to the hardware store, that will be the correct thread to find a nut for.

classic head gasket symptoms. you can get away with adding coolant daily, and run with the rad cap loose so it doesnt push all the coolant out(it lets the pressure escape) i had a 88 sedan with a blown head gasket and ran it with the cap loose. i would run the heat full blast, and when it got cold, it was time to add coolant. if the temp is spiking, let the car cool down before adding coolant or it will geyser all over you. leave the car run when you add coolant.

Wheel Bearing! sounds like you will need to get into a wheel bearing soon. make sure the cv axle nut is tightened to 145 ft/lb and that all the washers are there and installed correctly. if you removed the axle nut and washer, you will notice the washer is somewhat bowl shaped, with the bottom of the bowl against the nut, and the rim of the bowl against the cone washer. good luck, let us know what you find.

it will be the larger of the 2 clutch options. for 1987, some of the parts listings get confused with ea81's just tell your parts counter man you are looking for parts to a 1994 loyale 4x4 and that will eliminate the ea81 listings. all ea82 5spd 4wds used the same clutch disc regardelss of turbo or dual range. the smaller clutch is either for a FWD ea82, or a 4wd 4spd ea81

i have found that metric bolts in that pitch are harder to find for anything long enough. if you have trouble finding bolts in hardware stores, you best bet may be the junkyard. ea82 bolts will work as well