MilesFox

this is my method: once i install the belt, i grab the cam pulley and turn it by hand to take the slack out of the driven side of the belt(opposite of the tensioner, and i grab the tensioner and pull it up to hold the slack till its tightened down. be sure that the tensioner are bolted down, they are not spring loaded to hold the belt. the spring is just there to snap the pulley in place before TIGHTENING it up you will notice holes on the face of the cam pulleys. there is a special spanner tool you can pick up for this. its easy enough to make one if you get the idea. i have seen slack belts on running cars. you can always re-tighten the slack after the belt installation after the car has run on them for a while.

you will only need to remove the pins if you are replacing the shifter shaft seal. if you drop the driveshaft it will make it a lot easier. be prepared to catch some fluid. i recommend draining out the fluid before doing the work, and changing with new when you are done. if you remove the dogbone on the top of the trans, you can get the whole thing to drop down enough for easy access. its really not a whole lot to unbolt altogether.

when inserting the disty, try to 'feel' for a tooth between the gear it will want to go in. it's there, you can line up the rotor in the middle of the range you are one side or the other to. the rotor will point at the master cylinder list to the left of the clip or screw on the distributor cap.

is there an ea81 running spfi in this rig? make sure the timing marks are correct. the ea81 has marks on a different location on the flywheel than the ea82. if you are using the ea82 flexplate this will reflect ea82 timing. if this is the case, your timing must be some 30 deg off.

1. yes 2. all bolt on 3. they are all the same you need everything from the flywheel to the rear diff. this includes the driveshaft and trans mount, and its bolts. turbo trans will require you to get larger axles. any non turbo 5spd will be the same regardless of model(except for xt6)

go to a parts store and pull the haynes 1600 and 1800 manual off the shelf and it will be in chapter 2 along with torque specs.

you probably have a failing water pump which lead to the overheat, which led to bubbles in the coolant, which are indicative of a head gasket failure(beginnings of it) you will have a high probability of success using a block sealer, such as k&w brand to buy you time for a repair. do you know the service history of the car?

how about this? the cone filter would be the shaker part. the scoop is welded to the hood

make 3 passes starting from thge middle and working your way out. do not go straight to 47 lbs the first time 22 27 47

I have a loyale trans with 105,000 miles in WI, if you ever had to replace it. Follow GD's advice with the governor shaft. for repair books, the HAYNES book does not cover any transmission service for the work/money involved in replacing/rebuilding the trans, you could source a 4 or 5spd trans for the same effort. you will nned the manual trans, flywheel abd flywheel bolts, along with clutch and pp for the trans you use. along with the driveshaft and trans mount. you can use the same axles, and the rear diff if its a 3.9 gear if you do a 4spd trans its all bolt in. if you do a 5spd trans, you will have to massage the trans tunnel to clear the rear of the trans, or even space the mount from the body by stacking a few washers

clutch cable may be too tight. it it has been too tight all along, it probaby stretched the pressure plate. back off the clutch cable all the way, then snug it up just enough to take the slack out of the fork. any more adjustment will be for pedal feel. dont go too tught, and have your pedal way up in the air. the door lock light will remain on if any one door is unlocked. simply lock the doors, this is normal function(for cars with power lock)

i used to have 'super wagon' badges from an old ford short bus on my 79 pinto wagon. too coool

YO! welcome to usmb. I have been over to your father's garage a few times, remember me? I came to pick up the brat turck cap, and was over there thanksgiving weekend(had my girl with me). If your old man cant answer your question, you can always ask me;)

original bolts are 6mm x 1.0 thread, 10mm hex. some of the bolts on the valence may be 12m depending on year. i forgot to mention the marker lite. there is a screw in the bottom corner on the side, that goes into the fenter, and one on the top, that goes to the headlight bucket. be sure to remove them and the light before pulling the fender if you break a bolt, you can drill it out and install 'riv-nuts', which are threaded inserts you install with a rivet tool

pull the bumper. you will have better access to get to the bolts on the front. watch out for those bolts, they can break if too rusty, especially the bolts thu the valence. the bumper bolts are immediately below the battery or the charcoal can on the frame rails. to remove the bolt behid the door, open the door all the way and use a box end wrench, or a SHORT 1/4 dr socket with extension. if you pull the little door pin out you can get more clearance.

I can spare some interior parts. i can spare any air suspension components less the struts. sorry i cannot spare suspension or engine parts, since i am fixing up the car to run, but stripping out the interior(car is rusty, would make a good ice racer)

I installed a photo gallery on my website now. so hopefully more pics. the problem i have is my computer not recognizing my camera, and desmonds computer(which has my pics) not recognizing my flash drive, and the images are too big for usmb attachment. anyway...SUCESS!!!! i was able to just turn the whole intake port and unthread the bolt. the bold did turn enough to break torque from the thread, before it seized up in its bore on the intake. once i unthreaded the whole piece, i was able to knock out the offending bolt with a drift punch. Now all i need is a matching bolt. i have spares from spfi intakes, one of the shorter ones should match. I have o-rings now, the whole top end of the motor is ready to assmeble now(heads are already installed) I am an oil pan gasket away from dropping the engine back into the car.

you could have an issue with the crank angle sensor, or the coolant temp sensor. if the coolant temp sensor is bed, either the car will run great till it warms up, or the car it thinking its warm when its cold and therefore not richening the fuel to cold start. the idle air control valve may be stuck open or closed, and its function will be determined by the engine temp sensor.

check fuse #5 (horn/hazard/clock). this supplies constant volts to the ECU. Jumping the battery to the coil backfeeds volts to the ecu on the other side of this fuse. try that and see what happens

One: A twin turbo manual transmission flat 6 3rd generation alcyone/svx two: 'BRAT II' build from a 2-door impreza platform with forester suspension, dual range trans, and a pass-thru truck bed like the baja, but 2-door impreza based. the brat ii seems feasable with off the shelf parts. build it on the pre-2008 impreza chassis three: a 2-door wagon

one negative lead on the front, and one in the back will not be used. i just tape them off and tuck them out of the way. the stereo will ground to the chassis through the antenna wire. i have always used the common ground hookup every time i have installed radios in older soobs

sweet. i really like the 85-86 subarus, with the chunky steering wheel and the misplaced hazard and wiper! if you upgrade to a different grill i am looking for the honeycomb style

americans are too fat.

the subaru is a common ground. the left and right speakers use the same ground, for front, and for back. 2 of the ground wires on the aftermarket radio will not be used

I just did new brake pads and rotors on the front of a 95 legacy, just pads in rear. the bottom slides on the caliper were rusty. I used silicone caliper grease, and anti-sieze. At first the brakes were dragging. I could smell hot brake pads. I pumped up the brakes a bunch of times each time i stopped, and parked the car at napa. when i came back out, the car drove normally with good brakes. The pistons hyper extend enough that it rusts and then seizes to its bore when it's pushed back in. You could try pumping the brakes a lot, flexing the calipers, and flush out the old fluid.