MilesFox

you can just simply pull the fuse. the ABS fuse is clearly labelled. The only side effect of doing so is the ABS lite will be on on the dash. reinstall the fuse to restore the ABS and kill the warning lite. disabling the ABS will not compromise the brakes, and will be no less safe than a car without ABS. yanking the fuse vs making a kill switch is a non-permanent way to disable the abs without modification, and will not affect the value of the car if you were to sell it.

removing the dasj is easier if you drop/remove the steering column. drop the ecu from the steering column and leave it plugged into its connectors there are 3 bolts across the top, 1 on each side of the lower portion, and 2 below the radio. the dash hangs on mounts just behind it. there is a ground wire on the console bracket, dont for get that. you will need to unhook the heater cable from the heater box to the right of the gas pedal, and the vent cable on the left side of the dash above the hood release. everything will unplug from the fuse panel, left and right kick panel, pedal assembly, AC temperature thermoswitch and heater fan. therew are 2 vacuum lines, one on each side, coming from the firewall to plastic lines in the dash itself. myself, with prior experiance, can pull a dashboard within 20 min interesting idea with swapping colors, suppose you could do blue dash with blue door uppers, and grey door panels and seats against blue carpet, grey center console. I have a crazy idea to swap an XT dash into an ea82, supposedly they will bolt in

No clue on labor rates. I have always just re-used ea82 heads as they were. I pulled off a set of good ones and they measured .005 and .006 warped(concave) and the limit is .002. if you look at the torque sequence, you will see how the heads will flatten out. you could try yourself to take a drift and try and close the cracks between the valves. the worse thing that can happen with the crack between the valve is the potential to drop a valve seat, if the crack opens up enough

I tried to upload more pics, logged in as desmond, but they wouldnt go up. might have to resize them or host them elsewhere. i'll have them up later today.

having cracks between the valves is a normal occurrence. it is possible to use a drift and flatten out the crack, a good machinist should know of some way to stake it down. beware of cracks in the exhaust ports, those are the ones that will go through to a water jacket. have fun installing the cam towers. use some sticky assembly lube so the followers dont fall off as you go to install the cam tower. if you unbolt the motor mount studs and remove the pitch bar, you can jack up the engine several inches to clear the framerails, by placing a jack under the diff portion of the transmission. this will make the assembly a lot easier there is an o-ring in the cam tower that is very improtant (Where it meets the head on the corner), be sure to replace them

you will need intake and exhaust gaskets. You can do the cam seals before you reinstall the head. There is a water crossover pipe under the intake, go ahead and change the o-rings in that, since it can leak, and you would have to pull the intake to repair it you can leave the front crank seal and the oil/waterpump/timingbelt/idlers alone if you plan to come back and service those in the future. you should be able to buy the HG themselves individually, and pick up the other gaskets as individual parts. weigh the cost of individual parts vs a complete gasket set and get what's most economical

I have re-used the head bolts myself doing a 2.5. I have ALWAYS re-used the bolts with ea82's every time, since the old subarus do not require new bolts. The felpro kit i had also contained oem gaskets wit fuju marks, along with mexican cam seals and felpro stamped intake and exhaust gaskets. I paid 250 in parts for the head gasket set, and a separate oil pan gasket. the timing belt set with idlers(gates manufacture) for 300 bucks. It cost me a little over 500 bucks to do the work. if you want to be cheap, just do what is involved with the HG, and come back and do the other stuff later, if you work on your car often enough Also, undoing the motor mount and dog bone, raising the engine up a little will give you better clearance with motor in car. although i have not done it, the EJ motors look lile they would be easier to do in-car vs ea82's, less overall parts to remove, none of the peskey lifters and followers that fall off when you try to install the cams(ea82)

You will usually find the dual range trans in 85-87 gl wagons, they also had them thru 89, but a lot of them were single range in later years. If browsing the yards, single range trans has a button on the shifter. the dual range will have a lever. if you find no button, and no lever, then its a FWD

the engine you used has a different sending unit. the sender on your new motor is for a dummy lite. its small and round. and analog sender would be larger in diameter. if using an analog sender in a car with a dummy lite, the oil light will come on when you HAVE pressure, and go away during low pressure

if you had all the parts at once, the work can be done in a weekend easy if you know right what to get to. It will save you much time and frustration if you pull the motor, especially if you do engine seals. doing a head gasket should be a permanent fix. the new head gaskets are updated. whatever you buy as a current part will supersede the original. do you have experience doing head gaskets on other cars? it makes sense to do both headgaskets o the subaru. the head bolts are like TTY in the torque sequence but you can re use them, as some folks have. be careful with torque on the cam caps. remember, you are torquing steel bolts into aluminum threads with a finer pitch

the black wires are positive, the yellow wires are negative. make sure the coil is not reversed in its polarity.

maybe a clogged idle circuit? try the Sea Foam treatment search 'sea foam' for results

did the wheel bolt back on straight? do you have any shuddering or pulsating of the pedal. did you have any fitment issues taking off the caliper or installing the pads? the brake light would be on if the fluid was low or the parking brake was on. did you disconnect any of the brake lines. air in the system will cause one side of the car to grab less than the other, and then pulling. if you cram the brake hard enough, does one tire lock up?(the ABS would wig out in this case)

I can tell you that you stumbled upon one of the rarer subarus. happens all the time. Oh gee, i think i'll go get a subaru, and you happen to stumble upon 'sust some subaru' that anyone else would have a hard time finding:slobber:. take care of the car and dont ruin it, dont do anything retarded with it. if you want an off roader or a ricer, i'm sure someone will trade! give the car due respect. dont expect to go bolting on ebay turbos either, because it doesnt work like that with older models. this car should teach you a thing or 2.....good luck with your find:)

any of the lift kit examples you see on this forum will fi the rx, it is the same underpinnings as the other variants.

good idea with the article, i will consider that. i do have drill bits and metric taps, and a helicoil kit if necessary

first thing, remove the nuts on the motor mounts where they go through the subframe. remove the 'dog bone' pitch stopper bar at the top of the trans. next, jack up the trans to raise the engine up out of its mount holes. remove the rubber timing plug on the engine bellhousing, and remove the 4 12mm bolts that hold the torque converter to the flex plate. try at all costs to leave the TC with the trans, you DO not want it to come out with the engine because you will have an exxon valdez of ATF i recommend you watch this video, procedure is the same watch episodes 2 and 3

there are drain plugs on the heads, on the passenger side it will be on the front of the head, on the driver at the rear. check the bolt that holds the water piupe down where the lower hose connects. that can leak if the o-ring is bad, or the pipe is not inserted in all the way.

i suppose the car rund great until it warms up. and then it is hard to start? i would suspect the coolant temp sensor, try cleaning the terminals on it to see if it improves. the coolant temp sensor is on the back of the intake manifold near the turbo. you might have to remopve a heat shiled to see it. the CTS has the same style connector as the fuel injectors. hope this helps you

tom and tom, i got some kerosene and a plastic tub to clean the parts. The xt6 will be the most powerful subaru i have driven yet, except for the handful of times i got to drive a 2002 2.5 rs. we'll see how well the bolt comes out, i still have to get out in the garage, been busy working for the landlord, free rent!

i have a partially disassemble intake from a 92 fwd 5spd 2.2 legacy. i think they are red top. i can supply you with all 4 injectors and their fuel rails, if they will work for you. pm me with an offer if you can use them.

i am thinking if i drill in a little bit, i can remove what is left of the intake. the bolt brole off at the head, not the threads, so there will be a good inch of shank to grab onto and turn it out the rest of the way. but as GD said, this will be my own daily car, i can live with any potential problems. but ultimately, i would probably part the car and sell the motor(after i have my fun with it), so the repair is worth it in that regard. i'll admit i rushed the torque on that last bolt, already knowing better. i think the shank of the bolt is seized in the intake more so than the threads themselves i have a propane torch. how safe is it to heat the aluminum? i'm afraid i'll compromise the aluminum structure if i heat it too much.

if i had to guess, it woud be 17 or 18mm with a 1.0 thread. just a guess, though, its probably the same as an oxygen sensor bung

looks good to me. as long as the starter ring teeth are inside the bellhousing, you are ok. if you notice, the flexplate is inside the engine belllhousing as much as the edge of the torque converter is in the trans bell. i remember this from an ea82 and a 97 outback, it had me contemplating the same question as you, but everything bolted up and ran just fine

there were 2 carbs offered from the factory for ea81. the carter-weber, and the hitachi. the carter weber carbs were single barrel, and has a stud coming up from the carb mount on the intake. the weber modifications are meant for hitachi intakes, as far as the mounting adapters are concerned.