MilesFox

another option for a 6 cyl would be an XT6, 2.7, based on the ea82. the eg33 will physically fit in an xt body with room for the radiator, if you are just using the body of the car for a testbed. the eg33 will not bolt up to the xt trans however, but you dont need the trans if you can make a mount for the pitch stopper. the engine mounts shoud fit the frame the same

I have re-used the 2.5 head bolts. i get the impression that they are TTY withthe angle type torque sequences, but i got away with re-using them. if you know what it takes to break the bolts, you can be careful to re-use them. I would take a shot at re-using them, being confident in my skills. If you go to the NAPA website, you can look up parts, and they will list the manufacture and countyr of origin. My felpro hgasket set was a mix and match of mexican seals, felpro paper/rubber gaskets, and OEM subaru head gaskets. My set did come with valve guide seals, but i did not use them since i was trying to keep the labor down for someone who was paying me for the work. shopping aftermarket vs subaru oem is ok, as long as you know what you are getting, there is a thread about parts manufacturers and who supplies what http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=108259&highlight=felpro

how about the little hose between the thermostat housing and the top of the block? there was no mention of it, maybe you forgot to ighten a clamp, or the hose itself is cracked. when this is leaking, it usually goes down the back of the engine on the passenger side

there are only 6 head bolts vs 9 in older ea82's I did an ej25d with engine out of car, and it was simple enough. the torque sequence is a little more complicated than ea82's, though seeing how the engine came apart, it looks to be designed to work on it in-car, you dont have to worry about lifters and followers and o-rings falling out when you try to reassemble the heads. I had the opportunity to timing belts on 2005 legacy, ej253 sohc, same engine as your impreza, and looks simple enough to do in- car one thing i can 'suggest' is you can remove the pitch bar, the lower engine mount studs, and jack up the front diff to raise the motor up about 3 inches, so you dont have to bend over so far and have better clearance around the frame rails be aware of all the coolant hoses and temp sensors whem pulling the intake. you may be better off to remove the TB first, this gives you WAY better access to the hoses and sensors, and the little timing window you will need a 12 pt 14mm socket, 1/2' dr. Aside from a torque wrench, see if you can find and angle gauge since the torque sequence calls for a series of 180 and 90 deg turns after clicking with a torque wrench if you get a head gasket set, it will come with all the cam seals, intake gaskets, and valve cover seals. a felpro gasket set from napa is roughly 200 bucks timing belt set with idlers is about 300 bucks including all the idlers and a new tensioner(gates, high quality idlers) going the napa route you will have about 500 in parts if you are doing EVERYHING, you could save on ebay stuff, but the ebay idlers may be so cheap that the old idlers would outlast the new ones

i was able to use an o-ring from the bulk stock theyhad at oreilley. I did take the cam tower with me to size it up. get 2 of them. when you get to doing the other side, you will be glad to have the spare. I bought the last 2 at oreilley, and napa was just plain out of them, and the oldschool vw shop did not have them at all you can get the generic 'HELP!' brand o-ring assortment, but you may have to get 2 sets to have 2 matching o-rings I have always used rubber o-ring. the only thing i can think of that is a copper o-ring is the one built into the head gasket itself

Timing belts are easy enough to do. I suggest NAPA. a timing belt kit with 281 tooth Gates belt, new style tensioner, and all the idlers is just under 300 bucks for the set. cam seals are 4-7 bucks apiece. if you order them individually you will likely get a part from japanese manufacture. the belt is easier to put on first before bolting on the tensioner. the driver side upper cam may seem half a tooth off, but this is ok with the slack in the belt

maybe specs are different out your way. In USA, the timing is 25 deg for 85 and 86 mpfi turbo with external knock control unit. spfi runs at 20 deg. with the mechanical disty you set the initial advance and the knock control unit retards the timing. but the engine can never go higher than the initial timing, hence 25 deg for up to 25 deg. I have built a turbo onto a carb block, 9.0 compression ratio with stock ecu and boost, stock timing on 87 octane fuel. if you are running stock boost, you should be alright within stock parameters.

pulloing the motor is the best way to go, especially if you are doing engine seals. otherwise, with a crane, you can lift the motor up and slide forward enough to change the disc. i have done it this way in about 2 hours. I had to undo the heater hoses, but you can leave the radiator in if you remove the fan.

25 deg if you have a mechanical disty. 20 deg if its optical

wd 40 works for me to remove tinted window glue after peeling it off. works well with razorblades, act as a lube for the blade.

I went back to napa and exhcnaged the belt for the proper one. I returned the water pump, and the cam seals were wrong, returning them. Just doing the belt, thermostat, and new coolant with 'napa kool' conditioner. Took the parts bill from near 200 down to 80 bucks including 5 qts of oil and the coolant this saves my dude 100 bucks in parts, and i'll knock down my labor rate for him. now here i go to work on the car....

I believe i do in fact have the wrong belt. The NAPA website is howign this for sohc i better go look under the hood to make sure.... Attributes # of Teeth : 223 Material : HSN (Highly Saturated Nitrile) Pitch (in) : .315" Pitch (mm) : 8 mm Pitch Length (in) : 70.236" Pitch Length (mm) : 1784 mm Profile Type : Curvilinear (II) Timing Marks : Yes Top Color : Black Top Width (in) : 1.063" Top Width (mm) : 27 mm Material Safety Data Sheet Rubber Belt Application Information: 2005 Subaru Legacy Engines : 2.5 L 2457 CC H4 SOHC 16 Valve Comments: Interference Engine Per Car Qty: 1

i have a belt NAPA # 250328 here are the specs: Attributes # of Teeth : 281 Material : HSN (Highly Saturated Nitrile) Pitch (in) : .315" Pitch (mm) : 8 mm Pitch Length (in) : 88.504" Pitch Length (mm) : 2248 mm Profile Type : Modified Curvilinear (III) Timing Marks : Yes Top Color : Black Top Width (in) : 1.142" Top Width (mm) : 29 mm my 'customer' decided to forgo the water pump for now, he wants to hold off on his $$$ for a cv axle that is going bad. I suggested to let the water pump ride and re-inspect everything at 150,000 miles are these belt dimensions right for a sohc?

I am about to do a timing belt and water pump on a 05 legacy non turbo. According to the wikipedia article, this model has the ej 253 engine, sohc The car has 104,000 miles. I have a timing belt, water pump, thermostat, and oil filter. I do not have the idlers due to costs. How long do you think the water pump will be good for if i left it be? i know itbreaks the rules for routine service, but the car has low enough miles to just need a belt, for sake of cost. I do have the water pump already, and was assumed to install one. I am used to an ej25d, but have never touched an ej253. i am not sure if i got the correct belt after researching this model. i assumed a dohc, but ordered for a 2005. what clue can i use to determine i have the right belt by visual inspection? Also, i thought i cought a whiff of collant when i opened the hood. How prone are these to head gasket failure, and where should i expect to find seepage or leak on the outside of the heads? thanks in advance

i hope you come back to let us know what you find out! i second a broken timing belt, driver side belt. take off the cap and see if the rotor turns when you crank the motor, easiest way to tell.

a standard "J" fuse will work, like the ones in the legacy

Let us know how everything works out.

you can do away with the charcoal canister, unless you make it work with the trike fuel tank, it will be obsolete. you can ditch the EGR, and lose the whole vacuum manifold that is bolted to the intake. you may have to pull the intake to do it. you can leave everything else the way it is. anything beyond the pcv valve and the intake boot itself will be purely aesthetics, and if you do something different, you will want to keep the pcv system functioning, and understand how it flows through the motor if you use the little breather caps on the valve covers other

could be wheel bearings or loose axle nuts. which car is this? is it one of the ones i have seen? BTW i have a complete spfi harness and intake if you are still looking for one. I will most likely be out to Jim's sometime in march. I'd make the extra leg to columbus if you will be around. hollar at me milesfox@yahoo.com

yes you can use the forester/legacy outback struts. I have done so with foresters on a 95 legacy. The springs didnt quite fill out the travel, i was able to get the strut top together without compressing the spring. you can use a spring spacer, or try to find outback legacy or forester springs, or even aftermarket. cheapest way would be to find a spring/strut assembly from the junkyard

you may have to replace the engine temp sensor, the 2 wire sensr with the green plug on the thermostat housing. try unplugging it and see if the car runs any different. A new one will cost you 80-90 bucks at napa, but it will be an original FUJI part. hopefully someone has one in their pocket laying around. i do not have them anymore. they would be pocket items at the junkyard, if there were subarus in the junkyard out your way

butt a breaker bar against the driver side framerail, and bump the key. if you go taking the radiator out to use an impact, make sure you use the impact to install the pulley bolt when finished. be careful that the crank pulley bolt doesnt fall out and chew up the crank, if it was installed with not enough torque

if the most recent design is backward compatible, then the revised design of the gasket is current for all late model engines

you can swap on rear disc brakes and swap motors, trans from other models of the same platform. The car will do quite allright when it is running properly. if you take out the front axle shaft and leave the stub end in the hub, you will have RWD when 4wd is engaged. dont beat on it too much that way. front wheel drive would just spin the bare axle stub.

tom, the oil sender will be the smaller style for the dummy lite. sorry i do not have one, but i do have other spfi sensors if you need them. i also have a y pipe from an 89 gl with o2 sensor i also have a complete dash and engine harness for 87 gl 10, digi gauge. if you are selling this car, i have a buyer for you. if you decide to sell it, let me kow your price i will be out in the area come march, i'll bring out the parts if you dont find them elsewhere as far as the chug, you didn't leave the green connectors plugged in, did you?