MilesFox

You would have to see this car, it is a mess. it has been built by several people over the last 15 years, well documented as the 'monsterwedge' and the last guy who had it had no clue what he was doing, shotgunning parts onto it, and making a mess of it. I don't know how to describe it unless i can reverse engineer this chop job and make a schematic, so then that i can reference it. It just doesn't run right, is untuneable, and would need to be stripped down and start over from the ground up with vacuum routing. the biggest confusing part is this; do the math: 1987 xt mpfi turbo, flapper maf, mechanical disty full xt6 interior swap with some xt6 harness for the diff lock that blows fuses when turned on 88 mpfi spider intake from n/a/ the 87.5 has some sort of part with a port on the driver side of the manifold that is not present on this manifold. botht he 87.5 and 88 are designed with optical disty and hotwire maf no boost switch is present, charcoal can is gone, purge control solenoid goes to nothing, several vac ports on the box part of the spider mani and 2 on the throttle body. the engine is a carb block form an 87 wagon, the heads are one gen2 and gen3 found on an 87 rx with egr. There is no egr in this car, although it probably had one originally with a conventional manifold. The fuel pressure regulator seems to be hooked up. So far as i can tell, there are no check valves anywhere in th vacuum lines. We truied connecting the disty and the recirc valve to the ported vacs on the TB. The vacuum diagram under the hood correlates to a conventional manifold, which does us no good. Also, we had no access to a timing light or a vacuum gauge to troubleshoot, or any comprehensive schematics. I know the 85-86 and early 87 share the same electrical schematic. the 87 may have different pigtails then 85/86. All of the components are known good units, fuel pump, injecotrs, IAC, ECTS, plugs wires cap and rotor, new timing belts, timing belts correct, disty timing should be correct. What i need to know between the disty, recirc valve, and cabin vacuum, is which goes to ported vacuum, which to manifold vacuum, and were should check valves be in between. This car is a garbage build better deserving of a ej20, but for the fact that is is complete we want to make the ea82t work for the sake of accomlishment so that we can be disappointed when it cracks a head, thus justifying an ej20. The only thing that makes this car worthy of a project is considering its heritage, having been documented over the last 10 years on the subaru forums, and the fact that is was first registered to SOA as a dealer promo car when it was new.

WOW, such low mileage. very longevity. Expect 300,000 or better

This car would really take a 1988, 87.5 and 86 FSM and someone who knows what they are doing to figure out. Throw a legacy turbo, an ford intercooler, and a vlolvo recirc valve on top of it.

Non-interference timing belts and composite head gaskets. That is why

I have the 88 fsm, but this will only identify the port on the spider. This car has the correct disty with knock control unit, but only one vac line on the vac advance, wheile other models have 2. So this car is going to be comparing an early model 1987 with 1986 with 1988 retrofitted in. The 88 spider intake is meant for a 88 with hotwire maf and electronic disty, where an 87.5 spider has an extra piece for hte distributor vac advance which we do not have. What we will need (as i am confused with this car, and i am the one who put most of it together as it is) is identifying boost port and vacuum port, restoring boost switch and vacuum solenoid functions, identifying and either restoring or completely deleting the purge control solenoids, and installing a series of check valves that are presumed missing for cabin vacuum (heater control) pushbutton 4wd (diff lock) and vacuum advance. It may be likely to just strip the manifold down to nothing and start over, rebuilding each vacuum circuit from scratch. The car drives as if the timing does not advance, or the fuel cuts out. once the engine reaches boost, if falls flat and does not rev out, even with more pedal, and the EGT climbs to the sky. Seems like it s fueling while accelerating, but not at cruise. if staying out of boost, the timing advance seems to be working, if you drive with light load, but once the car levels out (low load), the fuel cuts out until you give it more pedal, or you let the car slow down enough while maintaining the same pedal for it to go again. the fuel cuts out on decel, but it picks back up on idle. the car idles ok enough, but stalls a lot coming to a stop. for anyone familiar withthe infamous monsterwedge, here we go. save all the 'don't blow up your ea82t' and 'ej it' comments as we need specific information and advice on the vacuum systems with either keeping the spider manifold, or restoring back to a conventional manifld wile keeping the flapper MAF and 85/86/early87 engine management with external KCU

spark plug wires. NGK brand only. Do a dark test and run the engien in total drknesss and look for arcing

if it has oil in ot go for it. 300 bucks is a player deal for a driver and you can recover that salvage if it fails. Don't bother with rebuilding the bottom end. Just do maintenance and keep up with fluids and engine seals. It would be more economic you get a lower mile later model short block than doing a rebiild, which leaves room for failure.

Sorr i get that confused, i guess it/s 9 for carb and 9.5 for spfi. I did this build with an engine that had been submerged in water and soft-seized; a block of wood and pb blaster saved it. I did some things that were probably not a good ide without cc'ing the heads or pistons, but i ground away the valve reliefs on the piston faces and ported the heads. here is a vid of the engine i had mentioned, slideshow set to funky music. Good luck with your project, don't blow it up, and have fun. don't mind the orange RTV, you should use ultra grey

Use 10w30 oil as in the owners book it clearly states "5w30 is not recommended for prolonged high speed operation"

Because rockerbox is the non-harley venue where they lilke to see such wonderful home-built machines. Why get lost in a sea of cookie cutter harleys? Either way, if you are down to ride across this great nation of ours, i welcome you to come to rockerbox.

So you swapped trans'. Did the donot trans have the same final gear? did you swap a matching rear diff? suppose you have a discrepancy in final gear between the donor trans and the existing rear diff. and my car drives similar to what you describe, full time rx trans with different size wheels between the front and rear axles, causing a slight rotational difference across the center diff, making the gears sticky, and downshifts almost impossible.

Yes, do it. Run the engine with stock boost and timing. You can get away with pump fuel, but premium would be recommended. You will get an 8.5 compression vs 7.7. The engine will have better low rpm torque before boost.

just retention the belt and it will be fine. the recommended life of the belt is 60,000 mi, but it can last longer. no big deal if the belt fails, as the engine is non-interference. The only pain in the neck about them is the covers, for which a lot of folk ditch them anyway, making a belt change a 20 minute breeze.

My first subaru was an 84 GL wagon. There was no internet like today when i first got it. The hanes book was my firend, and then i discovered the message board in 1999 and whas wholly surprised there was a subaru community, all for a car that no one knew about. Welcome and good luck, 1995 impreza is a good year for reliable subaru

That is too cool. Once you finish it and ride it, bring it to wisconsin for the Rockerbox Motofest.

If it won't engage into D, inspect the governor shaft. this is a circular cup on the side of the trans with 3 bolts. remove the cover and pull the hsaft out. inspect the gear for 'apple core' condition where the teeth are sheared off. The valve body is on this shaft, operates centrifugally, make sure the oil passages are not blocked.

scrape it off with a razor. the blade will develop a curl that will prevent it fro gouging, you can scrape with the blade perpendicular to the deck. polish off with scotch brite if you so desire. rinse down with wd40

next to sero readout is normal during idle. if the engine runs rough, suspect other issues. perhaps the timing is off if you had the belts out

replace the engine temp sensor

if the bearing is failing, the wheel will have negative camber, and thhe drum will be skewed vs the shoes, causing uneven wear or curtting grooves in the drum. I would investigate replacing the wheel bearings, and replace the axle nut hardware. for what the trouble is worth, take toe opportunity to convert to disc brake. in regard to the bearing, it's actually less work to swap the whole control arm, brake and all, with a known good unit

oh, your ea82t won't last ling by upping the boost. don't blow it up!. do your homework on the ea82t.

the gl turbo coupe at least will accommodate the ej22t havig the dip in the crossmember for the up-pipe. a ej22t swap would be dope. you can make the trans fit, saving you the mess with modified bellhousings, but the driveshaft will have to be modified. the legacy front suspension can be used if you modify the lower control arm or use one from an xt6. there is a little more to it, but any searching for 'ej swap' or '5 lug swap' will show you what to expect

use ultra grey or anarobic

there will be a natural wear mark where the seal engages it. any more wear would be clue to a failed wheel bearing or loose axle nut, or improperly installed washer on the axle nut. the flat washer is a spring washer, convex, with the convex side against the nut, and the concave side against the cone washer

Someone has yet to take the initiative and produce an aftermarket set. Otherwise salvage units if you can find them anymore, or if anyone is willing to come off a set.