MilesFox

wrong fluids? P/S takes regular ol ATF

it sucked oil up in the pcv system. take a fast, sweeping right turn and io bet it will do the same. consider replacing the PCV valve if it keeps doing

i would drive down to iowa for it if if you change your mind

i found this car instead http://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/cto/1607364222.html going to look at it with cash in hand, i'll take it for 1000 or less. owner had it from 25,000 miles with regular oil change, but no other service. sounds like an office type(with accent) who is just a commuter driver, i'll have to nit-pick and show the money.

sounds like the better choice for the Subaru. The other model would have been better handled with a v6 buick sized car or chrysler minivan.

looks very much like the ones that came in my fel-pro kit. The ones i got had milti layers and a fuji stamping (2 on one side, the metal gasket, and another layer on the other side) this was a 97 2.7 dohc

I would fix it for myself and drive it, and sell it later when i decide to get into something else. What i have learned about flipping cars is, no one knows how to drive stick. this car being an automatic would be easier to sell to the same people asking me to find them a car. I do have the option of posting it for sale out of state in rural areas, since i travel often and have family in rural areas where the post man sits on the wrong side of his chevy lumina with bench seats. Also a lot of rural newspaper carriers, i used to do the work myself, maybe i can do it again. or maybe not:grin:

SWEEP, SWEEP, SWEEP! I am pretty anal about sweeping the floors. my rule of thumb it to keep as much off the floor as possible. But then everything is on top of the car and the workbench! I have a wire bread rack that i use to keep all my tool boxes in. I have a tool box for my drill/bits, another for wrenches, another for 3/ socket, one for 1/2, etc, etc. I usually use a little caddy tote to keep tools in that i am using for the project at hand. i'll keep another rubbermaid tub to pick things up off the floor to clean up, and anythign i had out laying around will be in the tub for when i go to put it away. I'll keep a milk crate handy to round up all my sprays and lubes if they never get back onto the shelf. I have motorcycles and another car to work around. I have a 4 car garage, but only space for 2 with all my engine crane, stand, other equipment. Usually i'll take the time to pick up and reset my workspace for the next project. but sometimes i find myself doing that instead of the project i want to do, but have to do it first! i would hang more on the walls, but its concrete walls, i would have to get anchor screws and wood planks to hang a pegboard or shelves. I have a ton of plastic bins, i try to shuttle things back and forth between the basement, anything that does not need to be in the garage for the moment, such as spare parts. I'll put tires in the back yard along with other large metal items, and put engine blocks in 5 gal buckets or milk crates so i can move them around I hate making a mess in the garage, so if i am doing oil and coolant changes, or pulling motors, i try to do that outside so i dont have exxon valdez on my garage floor I try to keep a bin around whatever project i am working on to not get parts mixed up or lost

I found a RHD legacy on CL for cheap, blown headgasket. I am shopping for a legacy and the price is attractive on this one. It just happens to be RHD, not that i am looking for RHD specifically. How desirable is RHD if i were to sell the car after fixing it?

I guess it comes down to the insurance provider itself, if you want to get specific. my policy never asked me anything about gross weightsw or what not, i was told by my agent that anything in-tow is covered. U-haul uses a hookup guide to match trailer gross's with customer vehicles to approve or deny a towing combination, or for recommending which class/model of hitch to use for specific vehicles. a subaru legacy would be allowed to tow any single axle trailer at u-haul, but won't be approved for a tow dolly. Generally a hitch for a legacy will be aclass 2 with 1-1/4 receiver. there might be a 2 inch receiver available, but is still class 2 2500 lbs. The ball rating will be 5 or 6 thousand pounds for a 2 inch ball, 1 inch shank hope this helps... i would think the tow ratings on the car are meant to keep people coming to the dealer and claiming warranty for failures associated with towing, if dictated by the manufacturer itself. but i do not know if there is a federal guideline for towing capacity of new cars

axles? rear axles maybe? i have had axles that would click under accelertion, but not while turning

so long as you did not back any of them out, you are ok. i just did a 2.5 and thought i mixed up one of the torque sequences, but i turned out to be ok. I had to stop in the middle of it and come back later. there is a angle gauge you can but specifically for degrees turning of head bolts, i guess you would find the tool wherever you can get a torque wrench at. I did not have this yool yo use, i just lined up my torque wrench perpendicular and parallel to the motor to gauge 90 deg turns. I was using an engine stand.

i have a set from an 89,000 mile gl. which side do you need? i can mail one to you, but you might find someone locally who has one laying around. pm me of you need the one i have

if the gross weight of the trailer is less than the weight of the car, you should be allright. Driver skill and towing experience is the most crucial factor. A brake controller is best to keep the rig straight in a panic stop. orient the drawbar so that the trailer is level, but not too high or low to the center line of the whole rig. there are weight disribution systems you can use, but then you get into more $$$, probably would be too much for this type of tow. generally anything in tow is covered by the car's liability insurance, dont need separate trailer insurance(other than if its financed or for comprehensive)

drove it to the junkyard. kept the cd player, my good battery, the wheels, and got 225 for it. better than nothing. the neighbor wants the wheels

the problem is not the frame itself, but the metal on the car where it bolts to. I guess i'll junk it straight out for 200 bucks. my only hopes in getting 300 for it is to someone who needs a motor and trans for some minivan, but i would rather have the car gone than sit on it hoping for a better price. maybe i'll keep the tires and sell the set for 100 bucks. the yard will dock me if i keep the wheels, give me a little less

I have this chrysler LeBacon i got as partial trade when i sold my legacy. I have found the subframe has rusted away from the body, captive nuts ripped out. I could try to make an attempt to repair it and sell the car for sopme 350 bucks. otherwise i can drive it to the junkyard for 200 bucks. if it were not for this damage, the car would be worth around 600 bucks just wondering what ideas anyone would have for a repair, and if it would be worth my time to make the effort

you can turn the car on by jumping a wire from the battery to the + coil terminal, and starti it by jumping a wire to the starter tab. otherwise you can disassemble the steering column and putll the switch and turn it with a screwdriver. you will still have to defeat the steering lock. if you go so far as to pull the ign switch, you can drill out the spring for the lock pin with a cordless drill and a 3/8 or 1/2 inch bit, drill from the bottom leftand the spring will fall out

Timing belts do not have to come off, but the uter cover does, since 2 of the bolts thread into thde water pump housing. The crank pulley will have to come off. This is a reason why folks leave timing belt covers off, so this work can just be done without anything more involved. assuming your car is not turbo, you will want the 'long' water pump. The 'long one has a 110mm shaft, the short one is 105(for turbos) the difference is, the 110mm water pump has studs ont he water pump itself, and the pulley slips over it. the 105 mm had holes on the shaft, and the pulley bolts onto it, and the studs for the fan are contained on the pulley itself. other than that, the WP housings are the same. some may be new, some may be rebuilt. some will have a stamped steel impeller, some will have a vanr type cast impeller. the cast units should be better quality. the less quality ones are like alternator fins. you should expect to pay about 40 bucks for a water pump

if you can get ahold of a shop vac, use that to suck out water soaked into the carpets/insulation underneath. sucking out the water with a shop vac is almost like using a steam carpet cleaner., if you use any cleaning products while at it. i still recommend the athletes' foot spray if the car starts to smell musty

spunds very similar to modding XT seats to fit in gl's, you use gl-10 seat tracks to do so with xt's to keep the height adjust feature. Impreza seat sounds easier, actually(dont have to mess with height adjust)

sounds like the water pump shaft is wacked. either that, or you have the wrong water pump and the fan was forced onto it. Is the problem in the pulley also, or just the fan. loose studs or bolts? non turbo water pumps will have studs with nuts on them that ho through the pulley. turbo water pump pulley bolts to the pump, and the studs are on the pullety itself. which do you have? there is a flat spot on the fan shaft you caqn hold with a 7/8 or 22 mm wrench to hold the thing still to turn the 10mm nuts

jump a wire from the battery to the small terminal at the back of the starter. this will activate the starter directly. if it turns, then your problem is with the remote start or the neutral safety, or somewhere in between. if the starter does not go, then you may have a bad starter or a bad cable

could be the valve guide seals. usually it will burn oil during deceleration. try the thicker oil, thats what i would do.