MilesFox

if you have ongoing moisture, or it gets soaked in war,mer weather, i have found that athleets foot spray will kill and prevent mildew smell in the car. just something to consider if your moisture becomes stale after a bit.

on top of what General disorder said, you can consider an impreza, 93-98 or so. the pre 96's may be fwd variants, though, AWD was standard, 96 and after, the 96-98 will have 2.2 engines and not be so subject to headgasket failures. You could probably find a good one in the 2500-3500 dollar range, and leave you change to spare. If you are going to be the one onder the hood of your daughter's car, an 1st or 2nd gen legacy or impreza would be a step up from the old school world, and a little easier to work on.

just use the ea82 hubs with the struts, they all fit together the same, you can use the whole ea82 strut/axle assembly. i think there might be some mix and match with the tie rods, if i can remember. if you are using the ea81 hub, you will have to adapt the ea82 strut, and use the ea81 cv end on the ea82 axle, since the seal is too small to fit an ea82 axle in an ea81 knuckle instead of lengthening the ea81 control arm, maybe you can hybris the 2, using the ea82 outer section on the ea81 inner section

if you can bear the cold, drive wit the windows down, crack open the rear ones at least, put on the floor heat, get some air moving through the car

Do the timing belts right away, and flush/change the coolant. You may want to consider a new radiator........ .................. .................. .................and don't boost it beyond 7 psi

the whining noise you hear might be the throwout bearing, relative to engine RPM

easy enough to fab yourself. the hardes thing will be finding m10x1.25 bplts long enough. You could fab part of the lift, and get pre-engineered partial kits for sale. you are basically doing a body lift and keeping the suspension geometry the same. the only difficult part to figure out is the strut tower and the angle of the strut to keep camber correct. You may have to extend brake lines, and you will have to make your own steering linkage extension

you *can* swap an ea82 control arm(85-94 gl, loyale, etc). You will have to enlarge the bolt holes on the pivot point of the tubular frame, and use the larger bolt. the 3 bolts on the side will line up the same. you will have to use the ea81 axles since the car is physically narrower than an ea82. I would recommend doing this in pairs so the car sits even. they are all the same, but some turbo models have swaybar mounts this is another option for you if you have to resort to it

what is the difference than beating the snot out of an old car. as it seems, the newer a car the more likely it will break:( I routinely beat the snot out of 200,000 mile cars, no clutch smells.

12 point socket is correct

plug in the green connectors to cycle the fuel pump. otherwise you want the fuel pump to come on for 2 seconds when you turn opn the key, and on any time the engine is cranking/running you will hear the pump and the relay clicking when the green test plugs are connected(for diagnosing, not driving) otherwise i suggest you remove the outer timing belt covers and go through the rotations to verify the timing belts are correct General Disorder is correct about stripping teeth. I have had this happen to me before, and it had me stumped until i cranked the motor, but did not see the belt move.

might i add that, when replacing an ea81 with an ea82, clearance to install the engine is gained by removing the distributor, install the motor, and reinstall the distributor to make clearance around the master cylinder. I have had to cut the mout tab off the right side of the disty and clock it all crazy for the vac advance to clear the MC

Is this an all of a sudden occurrence? temperature related(cold outside?) has the car been doing this or gradually getting worse? I would point to the temp sensor, as it will affect how the car runs when cold, or as it warms up another thing to look for, is under the hood, on the driver side firewall, you will find a pair of green connectors and a pair of white connectors. these are to be UNPLUGGED. the white ones are for pulling engine codes, and the green ones are for setting the ignition timing. if they are plugged in, the timing curve will not advance.

USMB members with stuff laying around the garage. that is your source seriously, though, unless you have a local yard, that is your best option next to ebay, and folks sometimes will give stuff away to not have to junk it

there are tools for removing valve springs with heads on-car. it may be tricky with the motor in the car, but you can still yank the motor to have better access. but then again, doing all that, its just the cost of head gaskets extra to pull the heads, and the time it takes to remove the intake. if i was you i would go with the original idea and pull the heads, new gaskets, etc. in 9 months, if somehouw you dont get to ej'n, at least you have a motor that is not annoying you, and can go into another car from there.

with my backwards motor, i noticed the AC bracket was missing bolts. that is because the holes for them was on the back of the passenger side head! i'm sorry i did not get a pic of my example. i was able to correct this motor and have it running and to drive away. aside from the backwards head, the oil pump was missing a bolt, the inner 0-ring (round) and the pressure relief check ball, as if it was maliciously pried out(maybe to give a higher oil p. reading?). the AC bracket was held on by the topmost bolt and the intake, and the little 12mm under the aqlt, and not any on the front. it was distorted from this, i almost could not bolt it on with the correct hardware. the intake gaskets were made of some cut-yourself paper gasket of some sort, with silicone. the intake gaskets (split out) from overtorque. there was a mixture ot red and clear silicone on the cam towers. totally ***'d motor.

look into the coolant temp sensor

any shop that can weld, cut, and bend raw lenghts of exhaust pipe should be able to fix you up for within 100 bucks your best bet is a local ma and pa type exhaust shop, not some corporate place that wants to sell you new parts for anything you bring them

first off, if either swapping ea82 turbo, adding a turbo to your motor, or installing an EJ and adding a turbo to it, you will need a turbo engine crossmember, or modify the existing one to allow clearance for the up-pipe you would be better off finding an ea82 turbo car to build on, much simpler approach. with ea82 there is no "bolt on". You either start out with one that is turbo to begin with, or be prepared to rebuild half your car just to run a stock configuration at least.

cracked sleeve? what kind of boost were you running? I have ran a turbo rx on na/block (carb 9.0:1) in stock trim, stock boost and timing, regular gas with no problem. i would just say, ea82t with normal boost, or no ea82t at all. This is the part where everyone has already barked up your tree about the matter. Do as you will, i am not against it. Just do it where it will work vs not work at all. my advice to you is ditch this block and go find a carb block to build on

I'll go stick nails in my brake line if it will make you go on somewhere. I'll hardwire my fuel pump to the battery, weld my tierod ends, run on threadbare tires, use only the parking brake, drive with no motor mount, whatever it takes to make you happy. Hell, i'll use felpro gaskets and block sealer, for god's sake. But i won't use RTV on my cam towers, sorry. close this thread already. /thread This is unbecoming of USMB atmosphere.

i don't know hwat brand or chenical subaru is using, but i have had success with K&W block sealer. So far it has worked on a few ea82's, and its working great on my toyota 3.0 v6 that used to blow steam out the tailpipe and bubbles in the radiator. the stuff i have used is the sodium silicate(correct me if i'm wrong) "liquid glass" stuff. there is a regular version and a 'nano-technology' version as far as you head gasket goes, it will probably, or has probably already, started to let go at the bottom of the cylinder where it meets the water jackets. try and get a warranty repair if you can, but dont be afraid of the liquid glass type block sealers. at least it will buy you time towards a head gasket repair. just watch your temp and coolant levels

i have seen timing belt covers worn through by crank pulley on different motors, ea82, ej25, ej22. All the ones i have seen were due to the plastic covers warping over time, but no problems with the belts or pulleys.

check the #5 fuse

what motor are you doing? i just did a 2.5 dohc, and the cams on the right almost looked about half a tooth off, but its ok. the mark will probably be on a tooth on the belt and the dot on the cam in the groove on the belt