MilesFox

a blown head gasket will not cause bad valves. but if the timing belt breaks, and bends the valves, the heads have to come off to make the repair, and thus new head gaskets upon reassembly

parallelogram steering. more places to wear out and get loose, hence the vague steering. check the conditions of the idler arm and the pitman arm, this is what holds the steering square to the frame itself

an ej 18 with 22 heads was my original idea to do a turbo build for an ea82. seems too perfect

i would assume that an ea82 torque converter will bolt onto the EJ flex plate. spacing will be correct using the adapter plate(1/2" or 12mm thick) this is an assumption, i have yet to confirm

once you have all the belts on, and have the driver side cam facing up, rotate the crank till you see o deg mark and there you go( about a 3/4 rotation of the crank, the driver cam will be facing at 4 o'clock position, the passenger at 10

Speaking of big ol truck, I just got me a 1981 Ford F-250 4x4 4spd 300 straight six. Good solid truck, comes with a 6' snow plow. I had to drive it back 200 miles to get it home, it covered the trup with 1/4 tank of gas to spare. A little rusty on the edges, but it has newer tires and a stainless steel bumper. I have a u-haul hitch leftover from one of my subarus, it happens to be a f250 hitch, SWEET! i had to take off the plow because she was getting hot on the highway. The lugnuts worked loose and hogged out the rim. I got a junkyard rim with tire and new lugnuts. truck comes with NRA sticker:Flame:

BRATS are easy enough to work on, as long as you understand a carburetor. don't go expecting to bolt on mods. the best you can do is invent, or retrofit parts from newer soobs to accept aftermarket parts.

if it is a manual trans with 23 splines it will be 3.9 gear. the turbo is 3.7 You would have to get a 3.7 trans, or go ahead and swap inner joints and get a 3.9 rear. 3AT turbo axles are 23 spline, and have the larger DOJ that swaps with 23 splines. If you go ahead and get new axles, order them for a 3spd Automatic Turbo. Rear axles are the same on any ea82 The gearing will be different with a regular s/r. Turbo gears are more close together, and on a longer final drive.

yeah if the dash and door plate differ from the firewall, someone did a vin swap. otherwise, someone may very well have swapped in a carb engine. I have swapped a carb motor into a turbo. all i had to dp was change out the fuel pump, and connect the disty straight to the coil. the rest of the mpfi harness remained as loose plugs under the hood. Car ran normally, tach worked, but of course, the check engine light was on! and by doing it this way, i was able to swap back in a turbo motor and plug it in like it was, and go back to the high pressure fuel pump. go look at your fuel pump and see if there is evidence of it being swapped the vin number you posted looks to be correct for a turbo Subaru Vehicle Identification Decoder Look up your vin number online First 3 Digits JF1 Passenger Vehicle JF2 Multi-Purpose Passenger Vehicle (MPV) Fourth Digit Model Line A Subaru XT and Loyale (L series) K Subaru J Line Fifth Digit Body Type A Justy B 4-dr 81-84 C 4-dr 85-89 F HatchBack 81-89 G 3-dr Coupe 86-89 K Touring Wagon 89 M Wagon 81-84 N Wagon 85-89 R Brat 81 T Brat 82-85 U Brat 86-87 W Hardtop 81-84 X XT 85-89, XT6 88-89 Sixth Digit Engine Type 1 1300 2 1600 3 1600 4wd 4 1800 5 1800 w/o air suspension 7 1800 4wd with air suspension 8 2700 9 2700 4wd with air suspension Seventh Digit Model Designation 1 STD Hatchback 2 DL 3 GL 81-90, RS, Justy 4 GLF 81-82, GL-10 85-89, Xt6 88-89 5 86 Turbo, GL-10 Turbo 87-89, GL full-time 4wd 3-door 87 6 Turbo RX 7 GL Turbo 87-89 Eighth Digit Weight Class and Restraint Type A Less then 3000 lbs GVWR B 3001-4000 lbs GVWR with Passive Restraint 1 Less then 3000 lbs GVWR 2 3001-4000 lbs GVWR with Passive Restrain Ninth Digit Check Digit Tenth Digit Vehicle Model Year A 4spd MT B 5spd MT C 3AT D 4spd 4wd MT 81-84 D 5spd 4wd MT 85-89 E 4spd 4wd Dual Range MT 81-84, 85-89 Hatchback, 85-89 Brat E 5spd 4wd Dual Range MT 85-89 F 3AT 4wd G Full Time 4wd MT H 4EAT Full Time 4wd 4 4spd 4wd 87 Hatchback Last Digits 002001 & after Touring Wagon 100001 & after Hatchback 200001 & after 4 Door Sedan 300001 & after Hardtop 81,84, XT, XT6 400001 & after Wagon 500001 & after Brat 700001 & after Justy 800001 & after 3-Door Subaru VIN code Position Sample Description 1 4 World Manufacturer Identifier 2 S 3 4 4 B Line type 5 T Body style 6 6 Engine type 7 1 Model identifier 8 C Restraint type 9 X Check digit 10 3 Model year 11 7 Plant of manufacturer & transmission type 12 1 Sequential number 13 0 14 8 15 3 16 8 17 5 Line types The line type is specified in character four of the Subaru VIN for passenger cars. VIN Code Description A Alcyone/XT/XT6 B Legacy/Baja C Alcyone SVX G Impreza S Forester Body styles The body style is specified in character five of the Subaru VIN for passenger cars. VIN Code Description C Impreza Sedan D Legacy Sedan E Legacy Sedan F Impreza & Forester Wagon G Legacy Wagon (Outback models) K Legacy Wagon M Impreza Coupe P Outback Wagon T Baja X XT/SVX Coupe Engine types The engine type is specified in character six of the Subaru VIN for passenger cars. VIN Code Description 2 1800cc FWD 3 3300cc AWD 4 2200cc AWD 6 2500cc AWD 8 3000cc FWD Models The model is identified in character seven of the Subaru VIN for passenger cars. VIN Code Description 1 Base 2 Brighton 3 L 5 LS/S 6 LSi 7 GT/RS 8 Outback/Sus 9 Postal Vehicle Restraint types The restraint type is specified as character eight of the Subaru VIN for passenger cars. VIN Code Description 2 Automatic Seat Belt without Air Bag 5 Manual Seat Belt w/ Driver/Passenger Air Bags 6 Manual Seat Belt w/ Driver/Passenger Air Bags and Side Air Bags C Manual Seat Belt w/ Driver/Passenger, Curtain and Side Air Bags Plants and transmission types The plant and transmission type is specified in character eleven of the Subaru VIN for passenger cars. VIN Code Plant Transmission 6 SIA AWD MT5 5/R 7 SIA AWD 4EAT 8 SIA AWD 4EAT (Postal) C FHI FWD 4EAT G FHI AWD MT5 5/R H FHI AWD 4EAT SIA=Subaru-Isuzu of America FHI=Fuji Heavy Industries Subaru WMIs WMI Country Description Vehicle Types JF1 Japan Fuji Heavy Industries Passenger Vehicle 4S3 USA Subaru-Isuzu of America Passenger Vehicle 4S4

the haynes book will throw you off with the pictures of the cams up. Yes it shows both cams up, but the body of text describes rotating the crank 360 after instsalling the first belt line up marks, install first belt up. rotate crank, first cam faces down. now install second belt up, rotate again, then find odeg and install the disty. do a search for " EA82 timing belts" and the link to the timing belt article will be thrown all over the place:grin:

not carb will be MPFI. you will need an adapter plate to go EJ

Now i have gone ahead and torqued everything up. I felt better after completing the task. Everything went together very well. The signs of failure on this example are consistent with photos i found online(skip's 2.5 headgasket page) The failure was at the bottom of the cylinder between the 2 water jackets. Thanks for all the advice

If the heay is blowing cold, then the goolant is too low. If you have bubbles in the radiator, you may have the beginnings of a blown head gasket. I suggest running a can of block sealer. Otherwise it will get worse. Try filling coolant by removing the upper radiator hose to fill the block. this trick has worked for me Try that, and if you still have bubbles, do the block seal. I have had success with 'liquid glass' type block seal, which contains sodium silicate. You have to follow specific directions for the block selar to be effective. DO NOT use bar's leak powder or pellets. this will wreck your heater core

the ea82 crossmember is physically wider than the ea81 framerail

you should be able to go with a 95-96 2.2 engine. I have performed the swap myself on someones car, although i dont recall the exact years. the intake plugged in the same and the only difference between the recipient and donor cars was the ac compressor itself. you will want to look and see if you have a dual port or single port exhaust

ej18's will share dimensions with the first gen ej22. Intakes are more or less the same, exhaust fits the same. you could put an 2.2 in place of the 1.8 using the 1.8 intake on the 2.2 motor. if the motor has a flywheel it will most likely be a FWD 5spd you can put 2.2 heads on it to change the compression

you might find a good bottom end in a used engine if trying to rebuild this particular unit. You can likely have one given to you by someone around here if you are near any one area. On opinion here, if you know enough subaru folk you can likely get an engine avg 100-150,000 mi for some 50 or 100 bucks. May be overall cheaper than sourcing rebuild parts. If you don't know any subaru folk, then no one is going to know what you are talking about:-p. get a good block and use your own heads Not to say you shouldn't rebuild an engine. If yours got cooked you should consider another block that you can rebuild without an overbore. With a cooked block there is a chance you could spin out a sleeve during the bore and then your block is ruined. Cooked blocks are more likely to strip threads on head bolts if you torqued them again this is general knowledge coming from me. Someone with such experience will chime in.

I can see the argument in relation to a rod or a crank bearing, but a cork oil pan gasket is a moot point

(fox's NAPA friend on his screen name) After hearing about this thread from Fox I feel compelled to put in my two cents worth. I've known Fox for a bit now, and have helped him track down multiple oddball items for EA-series Subaru vehicles through my work. I'm a car enthusiast at heart, and I have been doing parts for fast approaching 6 years now. The "OEM or Bust" mentality is pointless, in my opinion. Here is the reasoning: OEM manufacturers use (and often switch) suppliers mid-run at their leisure, strictly to fill orders, and to make the accountants happy. What was made by Febi/Bilstein for my Audi in 1990, could be made by Meyle now, yet still sold under the SAME EXACT part number. The manufacturer does what it takes to fill their shelves up to what they need, regardless of where it comes from. Aftermarket works the same way. I can't even begin to comprehend how many times I have opened an Echlin box at my work and found Ford, Denso, Delphi, Fuji, etc. tags on them. Now mind you that this is supposedly an AFTERMARKET replacement unit, but it has an OEM part in the box. The head gasket set for an EJ25 DOHC motor that Fox purchased had National seals for the cams, and a Fuji tag on the actual head gaskets. Classic example of going elsewhere to fill the box. OEM isn't always OEM, and Aftermarket isn't always aftermarket. You are dealing with a limited number of makers for pretty much every part out there. (Autolite makes Motorcraft plugs, and VW now uses NGK as OEM...) If you say OEM or bust, you are wasting your time. It is what is INSIDE the box that counts.

I'll take pics of my sealsets. i am curious to go buy a subaru oem set and compare to the felpro sets i have around. so far for comparison, i can take pics of the other 2.5 head gasket before i install it. I also have an unopened ea82 head set(felpro) and will have an er27 set soon to post up for comparison if anyone out there has a SUBARU oem seal, please describe the markings on the individual parts

point the rotor at the master cylinder. #1 is just to the right of the cap screw/clip when the flywheel is at the 0 deg mark, the passenger side cam is pointing to the hard corner on the valve cover. this is TDC when you think you have the distributor in correctly, make sure you can see the dot on the passenger side. leave the timing cover off on that side till you get the whole deal running properly

that is hot exhaust there on that pipe. it goes to the EGr. RTV would stink and burn uo inside there

well, of you can drive it as it is, try to get by and do the head gaskets on the old motor. Then you have a fresh motor to swap in that you know will be good. Which one did you twist the intake bolts on? if the loyale is not rusty, keep onto it until you get a good engine lined up, so long as you have the space to keep it. it can't be so bad it's beyond diagnosis or correction. only junk it if you decide you are done with subarus. I can understand the lack of old subarus in nebraska. these cars are cheap enough to come by if you know how to source them. you have to beat them to the junkyard!

sounds like your efforts made the spark/distributor work, but the fuel had to catch up once the pump was seeing a signal. If she does it again, see if the leads going to the distribitor are not cracked or loose at the distributor housing. could be an intermittent connection

I had a car die on me. I walked home, towedit there, and sat on it for months thinking i had a broken timing belt, and was too lazy to inspect it. It cam down to being forced to move the car, and only then did i bother to check the set screw, and there she be. If i would have though if that, i could have fixed it there off the side of the road to begin with.