MilesFox

LOOOOOONG breaker bar, with a long pope. it's the only way! slow steady torque instead of quick sharp torque. in the instances an impact has failed, a breaker bar has saved the day

the one i changed clicked a few times then would start. i moved it into the garage to change axles and lifters. it clicked again a few times intil the turned when i parked the car outside. when i went to return the car o its owner, i just got clicks and nothing at all. I had to change the sterter to get the car going. I informed the owner and he said there was ano start issue he had with no clicking at all, until it finally clicked and then turned over. this is the one i replaced with the legacy starter, turned strong on the first try! i'll bet if i disassembled the old starter and cleaned it up, it would work again.

so are you not getting spark at all? could you have popped a fuse?

it was probably to the top, then the thermostat opened and sucked out what was in the radiator. any air bubble would have burped out then, go ahead and top off again and be good to go

probably a bad starter. if its manual trans, then any other manual trans should work. I have used a fwd legacy starter in an fwd ea82, exact fit, except for the terminal to the small wire, i just cut that off and used a standard female spade connector

keep this car in stock trim since it has good collector value. if you wanted to go crazy mod, you could flip this car for a profit and get into a better candidate for a build. This one is simply too original to make changes to!

i would go with the roll-on rustoleum. its easier to control when painting outside. spray paint is faster and easier(if you are good with a can) but you will have to take more time in masking, and be out of the wind. roll on is much less messy and you can get a thicker coat of paint. i did this on my legacy, i sanded down the oem finish with 120 grit before applying the roll-on

i'll have to get a pic of this. the car is behind my garage and i will be pulling the motor. The owner of the car paid some fool 700 bucks 2 years ago to rebuild this motor. he claims all the bottom end has been redone. but i have a feeling he paid this fool 700 to put the heads on backward. i bet the mechanic thought he was going to do the crank and rods until he removed the oil pan:lol:. i bet you a dollar this motor was never apart on the bottom end

usually the little damper on the pump itself will rust out. you will more than likely break it when trying to remove the line. usually starts out as a pinhole leak and a fin spray mist. running the pump dry will not make it leak. but a leak present will affect pressure to the injector

idle air control valve or engine temp sensor. the IAC is supposed to open on a cold start. it acts like a choke to increase idle, but by introducing a 'false' vacuum leak to kick the idle up. either this part is not working, or the temp sensor is bad and the car does not know it's cold. try unplugging the green 2 pin connector on the thermostat housing(this is where the sensor is located) and see if the car runs any different. the IAC valve istself is on the front of the throttle body with a hose going from it to the intake boot. try soaking it in carb cleaner, or you can remove the part and clean out all the carbon and junk. this is assuming the unit works but is clogged up.

I have an 89 xt6 in my garage, already converted to coilovers, but the air lines and sensors are still present. if you need a specific part shoot me an email milesfox@yahoo.com

if you can find where the sheild is loose, you can tie a hose clamp to hold the shields tight. I have seen exhausts with huge dryer hose clamps all the way around the catalytic converter. if they are horribly rusty, you can probably just rip them out. If you try to unbolt them, you are likely to break the bolts or rip out the captive nuts.

i had this problem once. i resorted to a breaker bar and a whole length of subaru exhaust pipe. this worked after all else failed(including heat) the video Subaru Alliance #33 "Impossible Axle Nut" details the same scenario. You may have seen this but i'll post it for posterity. the higher ups at Blaster Chemical saw this video and sent me a case of free product i suggest you try this method and see if it works

funny thing, i got a subaru dropped off to me to do head gaskets. the previous mechanic installed the heads backwards. this was spfi, the car was running and driving, with a copper pipe bridging across to connect the egr line from the egr to the other side of the motor next to the water pump pipe.

is this the one we did the swap on? How about the oxygen sensors? I put a 95 ypipe with 2 cats on my 92 legacy which had one cat. the o2 os not connected, and the cart has trouble starting when cold yours will have 2 o2 sensors. the front one is the most sensitive

the front diff may be showing its wear. make sure the fluid level is correct. check the SHORT dipstick on the TOP of the trans. if you did not know this was there, then this may be your problem!

SWEET! there is a video detailing the ign timing. I will soon have up headgasket ej25 and ea82 videos when i get to doing the work... anyway, which bolt broke, the shortest outside one, or one of the longer inner bolts. people are going to tell you one thing or another, but i will tell you I have used an intake with only 2 bolts on one side with no issues. use new gaskets, and you can put a film of ultra grey sealant on the gaskets if you like. if you are skillful enough, you can try to drill out the old bolt, provided you know what's involved. otherwise, if i were you, i would work with what you have, and if it holds out, then you are good to go. worry about extracting the broken bolt the next time you have to pull the heads. wors comes to worst you might have to change the intake gaskets if you do have problems. clean up the bolts real good with a wire wheel, and use anti seize on the threads and the entire shank of the bolt

hatchback is different. the tank is overall shorter, and the rear half wont bolt up unless you fab a mount.

take off the cap, and rotate the crank till the 0 deg mark comes up. the rotor will point at the master cylinder, if it is pointing the other way, rotate the crank again

1993 in the usa AWD became standard after 96, the earlier versions were available as 1.8 FWD standard equip.

see if you can find an oem motorcycle plug tool, one in 5/8 and the stamped steel type with thinner walls. Maybe the STIHL dealer down the road may have something like that. Like the kind that will come included with a new power equipment I encountered your problem with a regular socket trying to get at the plugs on a honda vf500f

Assuming you are just towing a flat roll, the brat should track correctly. you want the trans in 2wheel drive, in neutral, and the steering column locked. it should track nicely. in my experiences i'll get steering the wrong way in tight slow maneuvers, or when backing. if they go the wrong way momentarily, they should straighten out as you get going.

the socket may just bee too fat to fit over the plug inside the hole. the size should be 13/16" if the plugs in there now are the correct ones. try to use an OEM spark plug tool that comes in the subaru tool pouch

I would say the easiest approach is to pull the motor. from there you have plenty of room to work around the axles, and the crossmember. having the motor out already makes re-installation of the trans a pure preeze. you can take this time to do all the engine selas on the motor, just set it in a 5 gal bucket for a stand(you would have to do the oil pan and oil pump hanging from the crane this way) here are some videos relating to removing an at, and reinstallation of a manual trans(same procedure) These videos are about an EA82 engine, but the legacy will be the same as far as bellhousing and engine mounts. between ea82 and legacy you basically use the same procedures for this type of work (engine already out, removing AT) (installing the Manual, engine out of car) this one demonstrates using the crane to hold the car up high to get the jack under search youtube for "Art of Subaru Maintenance" #01 through #03 details removing the engine 5 through 10 details engine seals and timing belts 11-15 detils engine install and hookups 16- through 17 details the trans if you watch them all in a row it details removal of the motor, engine seals, removing an automatic, installing amanual, and reinstalling the engine for a at to 5spd swap the vids show about the ehgine crane, where to place your jack, bellhousing and motor mounts, universal procdure for ea82's in any form otherwise if you leave the motor in, you can use a tranny jack under the car, but yo will have to jack the car way up to get the trans and jack under there first. An automatic will mate together much easier than a manual since you dont have to worry bout clutch spline and pilot shaft alignment

There is a resistor coil that controls the lower fan settings. The resistor is located under the passenger kick panel, to the left of the fan motor. There is a plastic tab on the lower panel that fits into a slot. The slot is on the resistor itself, it drops out with 2 screws. If you remove it, you will likely find one of the coils are broken. You can solder in a resistor if you know what resistance is needed for each speed