MilesFox

i mount them under the heater control pod or on the other side, or both. The instrument bezel pops off and i will run the wires into the vent and out under the kick panel for easy hookup

if you undo the shifter linkages from inside of the car, undo the pivot bolt, you can drop the shifter with the trans instead of removing the whole assembly. there is a 12mm nut that holds the assembly to the tunnel behind the shifter. remove the pitch bar on the back of the engine so the whole works will pitch down. once you drop the mount, you wull have the wiggle room to remove the axles. the motor is not much more work to take out. If you removed the engine first, you can pull out or install the trans from up top with crane, or just pick it up out of the car. if you took the motor out you can go through all the seals

if you may be losing coolant indeed do the intake gaskets. this will help your boost,also. take off the radiator cap and watch for bubbles in the goolant when she is running at temp. this is a sign of head hasket where exhaust is pressurizing the coolant and pushing it out into the overflow tank the only other possibility to lose coolant without compression issues is the possibility of a cracked head in the exhaust port. do not use bars leaks or the radiator pellets as they will wreck the heater core and possibly the radiator. if you would determine you have a cracked head and the gaskets are still good, you could try a 'liquid glass' type block sealer. brands to recommend are K&W block selar, in a can. There is a 20 dollar bottle of the 'nano technology' block sealer in the green bottle by K&W. there are cheaper brands in clear bottles with copper flakes suspended in a gel type fluid. make sure you FOLLOW SPECIFIC DIRECTIONS on the bottle or it will not work. You have to flush your coolant of all antifreeze and run crystal clear water to use the block sealers. you do this to apply the treatment, and then you drain out all the water and let it air out overnite, before adding regular coolant. Attack your problem in this order. 1. check for bubbles in radiator. of so, suspect head gasket 2.Compression test, if you have a low number on one side vs the rest, suspect head gasket. 3. If you have none of the above, take the time to replace the intake gaskets. the whole intake comes off as an assembly, you do not have to remove fuel rails, throttle body, etc. use this opportunity to replace hard to reach hoses, especially thei one near the turbo. 4. If intake gaskets dont help, and you have good compression and no bubbles in the radiator, suspect a cracked head. You would have to drop the exhaust pipe to visually verify. 5. Use block seal if necessary. only use if you know you have a cracked head, or have verified bubbles in the radiator. Do all the prior steps first. the stuff will work on a mild blown headgasket, bubbles in radiator. This will buy time to get around to a proper repair. I would not do block seal if i had coolant in the oil, or oil in the radiator. If so you want to yank the motor out and do the head gaskets right away

my gut at napa states the intake gaskets are common problem on 3.1 motors. i dont know about 4.3, bit i would suspect the intake gasket before anything else

you can bolt in anea82 motor, go with an spfi block, ea71 pistons, and an ea82 carb intake with weber carb

you will notice another plug on the oil pump. The large sender(analog gauge) fits in the larger plug, the smaller plug is there(where a dummy lite sender would go) and you can install your fittings there. be careful as most gauge kits come with standard NPT ftittings, ehre the subaru plug is metric. you may have to mix and match fittings to connecto your gauge. be sure to use thread tape

the pbc stuff would be the little 99 c packs of brake quiet anti squeal stuff. the silicone can be found in the same 99 c packs, or if you go to napa, look for 'syl-glide' brand

I like to install a cherry bomb to the y pipe flange, and 1/34 to the rear diff and a 2" turnout to the side this is what i had on my sedan the best practical use was on my 87 fwd wagon, i cut out a section of the mid pipe and installed the cherry bomb. I then used the leftover pipe to replace the muffler itself, and welded on a rebar piece to mount it up my favorite is open y pipe, but you lose low end grunt, but sounds cool:grin:

you would be better to swap a motor from a wreck. its less labor rate to swap a good motor than to take apart and rebuild a bad one. if you sell the car, stick to the book value since its too easy for someone else to flip the car by swapping a motor.

what hole are you talking about? look under the thermostat for the little hose that connects to the top of the block. i'll bet that is leaking. coolant runs down the top of the block, and collects at the spark plug. there is a drain hole for at the spark plug if this is what you are asking for. it could be a possible intake gasket, but rare. look at the hose first, most likely culprit.

left and right axles are the same lenght. you can take one from one side of the car and install it on the other side. you will find differences between FWD and 4wd axlles in shaft or axle cup diameter, but the length is the same and the fit the knuckle and trans the same.

try to push them in as you turn so they can engage the thread inside. you could use a c clamp if you dont force it, or tap on it with a block of wood and a hammer to seat it down before turning.

Suppose its some sort of circuit breaker.

you could use a shorter belt if you removed the compressir entirely. there are several variations, which one do you have? typically you wull have a round compressor inboard, and the alternator outboard. generally on turbo models you will have a square compressor outboard and the alternator inboard. if you have the first variant, just remove the compressor from the iron bracket. otherwise, if you keave it there, it will run the same as if the ac is never turned on.

i have had a pulley fly off when the shaft seized and the torque snapped the shaft clean off, no leaking.

Are those vacuum lines or electrical wires going to it? I'm sorry to say i dint know what that is, as far as i have not gotten my hands dirty on many 70's models if i had to guess, i would assume it to be some sort of vacuum solenoid or check valve. maybe for the heater control or vacuum canister? i got your message, though i would sugest assking moosens as i know he has had a lot of first gen soobs

Hello! I'm in milwaukee, originally from Indiana, and have been to the junkyards in Columbus, oh for the old subaru parts. Welcome to USMB, good to see some long-timers out there

Carbonic Acid.

forget all the bottom end work. if you are going for cheap, let me tell ya:lol: Do the head gaskets, if your kit has the valve guide seals, may as well use them. use a valve spring tool rental, and get some valve lapping paste and polish the valve seats. take off all the timing covers and do the cam seals. do the front crank seal. leave the rear seal alone as it most likely is not leaking, they last forever, you have the option to do that later with the clutch. leave all the timing covers off, this makes future maintenance easier, and use the same belt if its not bad. you can do the work later, and just as quick sans covers(inner and outer) the water pump can be done later without taking off a bunch of stuff do the oil pan as its cheap enough and easiest to do out-of-car leave the water pump alone if its known good if you know how to do the work, labor is free, but parts cost $$ you can do all this for maybe 75 bucks otherwise if you get all the other associated parts including water pump and timing belt set, you will land somewhere between 200 and 300 bucks, still cheaper than $1000

did the fuel pump crap out? the fuel pump is located behind the seats. fold down the back seat, and throw the carpet all the way forward. there is an access cover behind the seat hinge on the passener rear seat. it's not under the bottom of the seat. did it quit while running, or after you changed out a part? or did it just not start after sitting overnite?

^^^^ what they said. all of the above. I am doing the same thing on an 86 3door(in the somewhat near future) I have all the xt hardware including the trans mount. The xt6 is geared differently in the trans than a normal ea trans, and is more appropriate for an ej22 power curve. If i has an ej trans i would opt for that with the viscous center diff and to save tim/labor/money on a bellhousing adapter. I theorize, but dont' know for sure, that if you use an ej trans, an ej driveshaft would be the right lenght(correct me if this is not true)

what if you forgot? or confused with hot coffee. it makes more sense to bring the battery in at night. cold weather shouldnt be an issue until the temp nears 0 and below. people in warm climates freak out when the temp gets to freezing while the next guy is sitting in 10 degree weather all day with no problems

typical. at least you caught it right away. this is usually the end of automatic trannies; wrong fluids or wrong drain plugs.

if you have read the xt6 info you should have read about the lower control arms and tie rod ends. i suppose the legacy tierod ends can interchange, otherwise the trick is to ream the hole on the knuckle since the shaft is larger on the ea82 tierod. and same with the lower control arm, you have to ream the ball joint hole for the larger shaft on the legacy knuckle. this is what i did on my 87 rx to fit xt6 hubs, and then swapped in a legacy hub and this fit. this was a mock-up since it was never a complete project. i did not have the right axles. for axles i would 1st generation impreza axles with a 29 spline count, if your car has the original trans. you might be able to use the ej transmission if you customize the mount or salvege an xt6 mount, and that will eliminate the bellhousing issue if you go with the ej motor. But you will lose the dual range. i have read about wrx gearset and vlsd to replace the lockable open center diff. you might be able to fit later model brakes and calipers on the rear, but you are limited by using a real xt6 rear hub unless you modify or manufacture one to fit. I believe there is a fabricator out of australia that makes 5lug swap kits i am just passing general info from the forum

you should be able to replace the disc by itself if you know the PP is not failed. you can scuff down the surfaces with 80 to 100 grit sandpaper. BEWARE as i have seen a new clutch disc fail from a bad pressure plate. the clutch was already bad when re replaced the disc, it lasted a day, the culprit was the pressure late from the first time it failed. you would have to take it all apart and inspect everything to decide what you are going to do