MilesFox

make sure the radiator is in good shape. you have an ea82 turbo engine, mpfi. automatic or stick? this determines what axles it has. most other parts are compatible with other models, such as brakes, wheel bearings, alternator, etc. how many miles? you will want to know when the timing belts were last done. engine is non interference, so if it breaks a timing belt, there is no damage to the valves

Got back within 24 hours. I ditched my u-haul rental because the towbar i brough actually worked, and dude got off work at wal-mart just after i was waiting at walmart for him to get off work, not knowing he worked there, and not knowing he was the guy i kept seeing around in there until he met me at the car! Overall the car is pretty rusty, and on a scale of 1-10 (1 being PNW 'rust' and 10 being so rusty suspensions are failing) i would rate this car about a 7 overall or an 8 underneath. Positive note, its a complete car with new alternator and strong battery, but no belt. She smells of burnt oil rather heavily, typical leaks. Clutch problem seems to be the cable itself as i was able to back the car out of the driveway and stall it out.

Sorry i don't have pics, but there are documented examples and posts from people who have. search for posts by calebz and WJMgl10 pertaining to this, and alsp copper head gaskets. I personally had the chance to work onchanging out a long block on an 87 XT tubo with a twe up pipe and vf39 turbo from a legacy. this also had the ford thunderbird intercooler setup. this also had the spider intake, which should allow you to go with a wrx intercooler setup. i am just passing along what i have read on the forums

I have run motors immediately after installation when doing head gaskets, valvetrain, etc i used the permatex ultra grey when changing out lifters, and i ran the car immediately after. in my efforts to find the o-ring i needed, my bead of sealer had set up for at least 20 minutes before i could install the part. the sealer was still pliable, it did not harden, but was a little more tacky. anyway, it won't have to sit long before you can operate your engine.

take off the distributor cap and observe the rotor is spinning when the engine cranks. if the rotor is not turning, see if the set screw fell out. easy fix if so. otherwise if the distributor is not turning, suspect a broken timing belt. do this first to rule that out before going into electrical troubleshooting. the test clips are for retrieving trouble codes and setting initial timing check fuse #5 horn/hazard/clock. this is hot all the time and is live with the ecu

just line up all the marks before removing the belt

it would be a good idea to get anew radiator anyway. at 1995, the radiator may be starting to corrode. usually the aftermarket radiators are brass. you should be able to find spares in junkyards all day long

be careful with this. i have driven/towed on old and dryrotted tires. you can get by with them. but my experience with old nylon tires is if you air them up good and all the way they blow apart or rip out. air them up enough that they roll and dont wallow around, but keep the psi's within 28 or 30 lbs, dont air them up too tight. take a good look at the sidewalls on each tire. it wnt hurt to have a good known tire as a spare. if you tow on a dolly, and you pop a tire, put the bad one on the front and move a front to the back and keep rolling! if you have 2 spares, put them on the back of the vehicle in tow as the front wont matter on a dolly use a comealong with a chain if the winch is too crappy

I am going out for this XT6 http://flint.craigslist.org/cto/1529874943.html At first the deal was i trade my 92 fwd legcy even up, but dude needs just 300 , i offered 350 just to be fair, he needs the car gone ASAP i havent seen a picture, but you cant beat the price. this lets me sell out of my 88DL to my downstairs roommate, and the legacy to sell to my napa parts guy. this would be my daily driver, put in a clutch and go!

ANY old subaru will have the same bolt pattern, but ONLY old subarus will. 4x 140mm is the bolt pattern. only ea82/ea81 cars and previous has this bolt pattern. Peugeot 505 or 504 or 604 is the only other car in the world that uses the same pattern.

the nut has a 17mm hex and the thread pitch is 10mm x 1.25 if you go to the hdwe store you will find 10x1.25 but the hex will most likely be 14 or 15mm. jut go with what you find that has the correct pitch, regardless of the hex size. feel free to use a washer behind the new nut to make up the difference in diameter

what i did was use a piece of roof rack span and mount my lights to it, and bolted them into 3/16" holes with 1/4" lag screws about 3 inches long to bite into the dense foam behind the skin. i used an ea81 unit as i was able to cut it short evenly and reattach the ends to make it fit between the headlights; the width of the grille.

Looks great. i wish i knew about this trick when i de-rusted my entire rear suspension on the 87 RX. i spent a good week with a wire wheel and naval jelly, and was picking rust boogers out of my nose.

^^^ second that, i have seen this fairly often, fill tube rusts out behind the shroud

a lot of times the nuts will take the studs out with them. if that is the case, get new studs. the are m10x1.25 threads. go to the parts store and look for the "HELP" brand and you should be able to find a set of 2 studs with nuts labelled 'import stud kit' if they dont have that, you can use the 'gm and toyota exhaust manifold' kit which wll come with 3 studs and 2 bolts. just be careful about how much torque you apply when going back together, because you dont want to ruin the threads in the aluminum head i suggest doing one side at a time. if both studs come out, you can slip in the new asket without unbolting the other side

study "ohm's law" as you should know the basics of electrical theory to understand what the DMM is telling you. otherwise its a glorified test light if you don't use it beyond simple troubleshooting

ea81 mpfi (Turbo) for 83 and 84 only mpfi with mechanical disty in 85-87.5 xt, and then for all ea82 turbo and all 4 cyl xt thereafter spfi for 86 in gl10, some carb or spfi for 87 ea82, then 88 and up all spfi if not turbo. spfi never came in the xt

I have used the permatex copper spray on the victor reinz gaskets with the graphite faces on the head gaskets. better manufacture of head gaskets will have a silicone bead around the water jackets

^^ KYB gr2 is the direct oem replacement.

I had to think real hard on how to write like that. i swear the current generation is learning how to read and spell from the internet before they learn how to in school, and with the internet being as random as it is, no one knows what to compare to, or what is really proper context. Did you see my broken subaru over hear? Its so loud you can here it coming a mile away. i think it's muffler fell off. There not going to like it over their in they're driveway. Your going to be sorry if you see it, it will make you're eyes bleed!

sorry to be rude but your answers were in the other posts. so... i would say go ahead and use them. see how they do and report back. that is how the wonderful knowledge is accumulated here. i guess you cant go wrong except for a few extra $$$ good luck:) sorry to run you off like that, just follow the rule of stupid questions get stupid answers. BUT there is no such thing as a stupid question, just how you ask is all. afterall, this isn't NASIOC:grin: have fun

ni i can not haz uzed cpper hed gaskitz but i red another post asking the same ?????? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=107241&highlight=copper u do knoe dat u R axing the same fokes the same questions on teh same bOHrd? I wish i can has hailp u but mai tipe ing an spellingz be not good enuff. here, hear, there, their, they're, your, you're HAI lol wut lol ZomgZ rofloftercopter trashwagon boi

weep hole leaks. signs of bad bearing. if your motor is getting hot, most likely the water pump is not orking efficiently. go ahead and repace it!

it is for the LO indicator on the dash

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