MilesFox

if you may have cooling issues then go ahead with the radiator. i'm sure you have a newer water pump if the timing belts are done. the radiator is the single most important part for longevity. unless you don't know the history of your car, or are long overdue for changes, you can forgo all the fluid changes. if you are in mountains i could suggest flushing the brake system, basically bleed them out till it runs clear. make sure you have a spare tire and a means to change it. you wont need much tools, just 10, 12, 14, enough to change an alternator belt. you wont need more than that unless you anticipate doing timing belts and axles over the road dont forget to clean out and organize your car because having a messy car over the road can get in the way of things

it takes longer to wait for parts than it does to do swaps.

make sure the sound described is actually lifter tick. its common, but not devastating. the gl is mechanically the same and is a better choice if its not in worse condition than the loyale(miles and rust)

place the jack under the tranny diff, undo the motor mount studs from the crossmember, remove the pitch bar. you can raise the motor up 2-3 inches. you can leave the exhaust pipe cnnected

if it is air try holding down the clutch during bleeding to get all the fluid to move through the rear. this applies if the hill holder is still functioning. acts like a one way valve when beleeding the rear

if you built the trile from a subaru rear suspension, the fwd trans will fit between the axles as if it were the rear diff

i can tell you that if you need a replacement, any full time mt with diff lock(xt6 and rx) or any single range pushbutton 4wd mt(loyale, gl, xt) will be the same vacuum solenoid. as far as the solenoids, one is off and one is on for either position, alternately. if they fail you can switch the vac lines to engage or disengage 4wd, but have to swap the lines back and forth each time.

you wouldnt expect to find much for hardcore of road in central indiana, maybe some quarry pit at best. i'll make my own opinion here and say that the loyale is tot horrible, it accomplishes the task of something you can just go into a field to and from work! the only pain in the rump roast factor with a loyale vs an ea81 is the timing belts. they are not the end of the world at all. its part of the charm of these vehicles but it is truly fun to drive a car around some 4wheeler trails that wou wont be able to fit a big truck and i'll say this because any ea81 or ea82 subaru is a rare treat in central indiana, you just dont find them there. go with the loyale for now. maybe a gl will pop up in the future, certainly a dual range transmission can turn up somewhere and be had for 150 bucks, completely bolt in. the best aspect of thee cars are they are very compatible and swappable with other variants and models

no it is not necessary. it is not much more work if you wanted to yank the radiator(if you are doing a coolant change anyway) you can butt the breaker bar against the driver side(usa) to bump the starter to unorque the crank pulley. you can fit an impact tool o tighten if you pull the radiator, or hold the car in 3rd gear with the parking brake and use a breaker bar to tighten. mind your torque specs you can use a small allen hex tool for a pin on the tensioner. i once had a hole break off, had to tie it off with wire and cut the wire after installation. an experienced person can do the job within an hour.

i would not run on dry pavement in an in-town driving situation in 4wd. i have driven in 4wd on pavement on county highway situations that have enough slide or wheel hop to let go of. not good to go around in all day, though. i have used 4wd on wet highway driving where hydroplaning is an effect. you can get away with drier pavement with the closer matching set of wheels you have

possible the timing belt was off a tooth for the compression reading throttle position switch can be twitchy. coolant temp sensor will make the car run boggy. take off the outer covers on the timing belts, and find the III marks on the flywheel, three verticle lines. you will need to find the green test plugs to set your initial timing with a light, works the same in theory as removing the vacuum line from a mechanical distributor look on the usrm articles about timing belts and engine codes for ea82 spfi

the idler air valve is the large solenoid piece that has 4 screws on the front of the throttle body, sideways parallel and a hose that runs vertical and alon the side of the intake boot and connects to that. there is also a small vac line that runs from the intake to the vac canister on the strut tower. if this is disconnected, tthe heater controls will only work from the dash and the 4wd will not work if you want dual range you will have to swap, or find some 85-88 gl. driveshaft, clutch, and axles fit the same. 4wd is a pto shaft to the rear. a dual range can be isolated to run fwd in lo usually the front engine seals leak and the timing belts can break. timing belts are easy if you leave the covers off, takes 2 hrs down to 20 min, do the engine seals beware the radiator as it is the single most important part on this car have fun off road as you can enyoy many ATV trails in the ol soob

i am fond of the spray paint. or try roll on rustoleum. put carpet on the door panels. make a trashwagon out of it.

welcome!. i am originally from indiana myself. love those EA82's!

a FWD 5spd! but the orientation would be like that of a mid engine, opposite of a VW. unless you can flip the diff to rotate the other way

i believe its for orienting the piston to the block when you are installing the bottom end.

you can thread bolts into the PP holes and brace a bar across them to lock the flywheel

check to see if the distributor is working, putting the signal out since it is the crank angle sensor. when you install the belts, you do line up the first belt with the dot up. BUT you have to ROATATE CRANK 360 deg before installing the 2nd belt dot up. the first cam will be pointing down after you do this. from there, rotate the crank again and then go for the timing marks. if you do the belts correctly, the 2nd belt's cam dot will be pointing to the corner on the valve cover. try this article. this pertains to 4 cyl but the rotation sequences are the same http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50768

assuming your timing belts are correct, remove the passenger side outer belt coverso you can see the dot. the dot will be pointing to the hard corner on the valve cover. if your rotor is 180 off, just flip the rotor. the rotor will be pointing at the master cylinder. rotation is counter clockwise. firing order is 1-3-2-4. timing is 8 deg

its possib;le the disty is 180 off. you want to make sure the belt timing is correct, then go through the procedure to make sure the disty timing is correct, since it is driven by the inner timing belt(the one installed first)

open belts all day long.

bleeding the iar out is tricky. fill the block from the upper hose before you stick it on the radiator, then fill the radiatpr. that is the trick

you can throw on any ea82 long block, go with one from spfi, and gain a point compression, your existing carb manifold will fit and the bellhousing will fit. the only trick is to remove the disty when you drop in the engine, then install the disty

i have seen several soobs that were gotten free or cheap, or were assumed to have bad heads or valves because the belts are installed incorrectly. in theory, the engine is single cam 4 cylinder but in its horizontal design, you have 2 cams, but its single cam. because of this, the cams are phased 180 away from eachother. that means once you install the first belt, you have to rotate the crank a full 360 bfore the other belt is installed. mechanics not familiar with subaru often make this mistake, not knowing of or thinking about said crank rotation. you can just orient the passenger cam the other way, full 180, that will fix it. run through the belt rotation procedure to check the alignment of your belts http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50768

the proper crank position to set the timing belt is when all cylinders are in the center of their bore. the keyway on the crankshaft pulley should point down you may have to drop a pencil in the spark plug holes, make a mark on it, ind fond the center of the bore that way