MilesFox

line it up in a manner it wont hit your exhaust. especially if you are putting the driveshaft in a 2wd body, or have 2wd exhaust pipe

i have done one of these swaps before, hollar at me if you want me to poke at it. i'll do it for my own entertainment and a cup of coffee. 414-793-7728

double check to make sure the timing belt is lined up properly. if you need help ican take a poke at it. usually a bad crank or cam sensor(cm sensor in my case with a 95) will cause starting issues once the engine is warm. if you need a spare part i have sensors from my 91 legacy engine. the napa on state

my 91 legacy does the same thing. blown out struts, but i think my handling issue is a rear wheel bearing. have a look at that since that is more likely to cause handling issues than blown struts

make sure the idle air control is working. and this will be run by the engine temp sensor. my sensor is bad, i have to unplug it for the car to drive properly in closed loop, but is a pain to start in 10 degree weather. it will most likely be the engine temp sensor, the one on the thermostat with the green plug try to find one in a junk yard(pocket item) otherwise you are looking at 85 bucks from napa

with no center diff, and 4wd engaged, you will have a difference in rotation between the front and rear axles, and will bind at the trans since there is no diff. however, if you had an odd size wheel on one side, the axle and diff will assume the rotation of the smaller tire for the ratio you can mount the wheels diagonally, and have an even rotation across the front and rear axles, as the difference in rotation will be spread across the larger tires equally this will work as the front and rear diffs are open, and the ceter is not really a differential, but a pto

look for a missig bolt. there is a robber timing plug on the bellhouing, you will see the bolts. turn the crank with a 22mm or 7/8 socket. there will be 4 bolts

any ea82 coupe, but only the ea82 coupe

subaru bolts are not torque-to-yeild like you find in iron blocks. you would strip the aluminum threads before the bolts stretch re-use them, as it always has been with subarus. just follow the torque sequence as it is staged

i have a 3at 4wd with 085,000 miles on it. pulled it out to go 5spd. i have plans on going to long island after christmas. its possible for me to deliver the trans

i would agree, you will get the edge of the rotor scraping along the caliper bracket. let it go long enough, you will get a rolling drag and the brake pads will wear diagonally. i left mine go to the point of undriveability, and when i removed the bearings, the inner one had a busted race and chunks floating around

last time i saw a head gasket (new in box) there is an o-ring stuffed in the corner of the4 head opposite of the dowel, its the same passage thet feeds thru the cam tower here is a pic. sorry about the quality, but you can see it on the lower left corners of the gasket, per the orientation of the pic(would be lower right on-car)

if your ign timing is off, then you must have slipped a belt. the other cam would be out of phase explaining the open valve on the compression stroke go through the motions in the timing belt article. it will save me the breath to explain it now, because i wrote the article. the idea is that the article is simple to follow, it has saved many a headache for people tackling the timing belts

brats were imported to the states thru 87, and hatches through 89. the brat availability is listed thru 89 because of theis, no difference other than the glass

Peugeot 14's!

i have a digi dash and a full dash harness from an 87 gl10 wagon. unless i decide to use it in my 3-door, i suppose i could let it go otherwise, i would be swapping it into the carb 3door with ej22 motor, same as you, and i'd post what it takes to make it work as i build. i'm not committed to it as of yet...

ea81 has a smaller diameter bearing

there is an o-ring on the bottom corner of the cam tower itself, whereit meets the top of the head. there is also an o ring in the head gasket itself, but the cam tower is more likely. i would suspect that. use permatex ultra grey silicone if you have that apart

ideally you will want to install the cherry bomb in place of the resonator, and run straight pipe after that

So i picked up an 86 3door, ultra clean for midwest car, front drive hitachi with carb issues. $300 and 300 miles towing to bring it home i also have a 91 legacy FWD i got with no motor for 140 bucks and installed a motor i had with new seals and clutch, for a total of 350 invested so if the carb issue is too much or i get tired of it, i was considering swapping in the legacy drivetrain i have had the idea of using a ej fwd trans in an ea car since it is basically the same trans with the proper bellhousig the idea is to put the ej motor and trans on the 3dor with the engine harness. i have an 89gl 4wd rear end i will install hoping one day that i get an ej 5spd(both of these cars i was assuming or told was 4wd, and realizing they are fwd after picking them up) and since i have a perfectly good legacy body with title and plate, it would be too cool/absurd to put the ea82 carb motor and trans in the legacy since it wont have an engine harness, and keep it that way until a complete 5spd donor comes along Sooooo.. how different or the same is an ej22 5spd fwd to an ea82? mounts look the same but how about the shifters? one thing i did notice, but wont matter for this build is the ej has a larger input shaft

if you were doing an ej swap, you would be best to have a whole donor car for parts, otherwise you will accumulate expensive parts that you wont be able to do anything with unless you have a full shop or $$$ to throw at fabrication/expertise you can have fun with this car, but be aware there is NO AFTERMARKET support for these cars, and the only way to get anywhere clos is to retrofit stock parts from later soobs to accept aftermarket parts/mods if you want to get that far into it, an impreza or legacy is a better platform since anything newer than that just bolts up just keep the gl-10 as your daily driver, do it good with your wheel bearings, and i suggest a good radiator if he one you have is corroded, since overheating will eat your headgasket in a heartbeat, and changing the radiator is the single best thing you can do for the longevity of the gl-10 expect to have to do a timing belt sometime as well. just having this car and keeping it going with regular maintence will teach you a lot about the art of having subarus, and make you better prepared to get into anything further once you are familiar with thee cars and how they are its really a love of it, subarus are subarus, and other cars are other cars, but subarus dont compare to anything else(but they are easy to learn how to be a mechanic with!)

it will help to breathe in the 3500 rpm range. not too loud unless you get on it, but not obnoxious at all for regualar driving you can bump up the timing a few degrees. i cant say its more horsepower, but doing so will move your torque curve up 500 to 1000 rpm, sacrificing the low rom torque, but easier breathing at higher rpm. perfect for highway speeds!

i'll run through real quick to give you an idea place your jackstand somewhere on the frame and not the lower control arm as you will need to drop this down remove the tab that secures the parking brake cables, and use a pliers to slip the cable nub from the parking brake mechanism remove the caliper by removing the 14mm bolt on the bottom and swing it up, tie ut up with a hanger to keep from stressing the brake line. remove the 2 17mm bolts that hold on the caliper bracket remove the axle nut and washers and the hub/rotor will slip off (experienced folks can accomplish this with the rotor and hub still present, if only changing the axle) rotate the axle so the dimple side on the inner end is facing you, and drive a 3/16 drift punch to knock out the roll pin(be aware of the alignment when going back together as the hole only lines up one way) use a ball joint separator (pickle fork) to pop the ball joint after removing the nut on the bottom. if you do not have a pickle fork you can remove the pinch bolt to tha ball joint and pop it out of the knuckle. be aware that if the bolt is too rusty, it can break off, and the ball joint may be seized due to rust. you can try to splay the pinch open with a chisel or fat screwdriver but be careful not to break anything! if you have the ball joint loose, slip a long pipe over the control arm and under the axle and butt the end up under the strut rod mount, push down to lower the control arm enough the ball joint pops out. if this proves too difficult or you do not have the proper tools, look up edrach's method in the ultimate subaru repair manual) once you do all this you can pull the axle off the transmission stub. use a block of wood and a 3 lb hammer to drive the axle out of the hub. you can spin on the axle nut for more surface area if need be. you will need a pipe or the round end of a ball peen hammer to hit against to pop the axle through the inner bearing now you are looking at a bare knukle. go ahead and pip the tie rod out and you can rotoate the knuckle to get to the back side as well remove the inner and outer seals, you can either pry hem off with a seal tool, or knock them out along with the bearings. insert your drift punch into the knuckle and drive out the inner bearing. flip the knuckle around and do the same. there is a collar between the bearings, dont lose or forget to install it! now you have the barings out, fit the new bearing into the knuckle. use a block of wood, or as i prefer, my axle nut socket and a hammer to drive the bearing in. make sure to drive against the OUTER race and not the inner to not compromise the bearing itself. drive the bearing in until it fits against the lip machined into the knuckle. flip the knuckle around and inset the collar that goes between the bearings. pack in bearing grease(the red stuff) around the negative space around the collar, and drive in the other bearing now you can inset the seals. if you do not have a seal driver, use your drift punch and tap lightly around the circumfrence of the seal to work it in. be careful not to put a dent in the seal face the larger seal goes in back and the smaller seal goes in front. the bearings themselves are the same for inner and outer, left and right slide the axle in from behind and ut it through the bearings as much as you can by hand, then line up t eh hole on the trans stub and insert the roll pin, again from the dimpled hole. insert yout punch throug the hole to make sure its lined up before driving the pin, otherwise you risk getting the pin stuck now the axle is on the trans, you can use your 3 lb hammer and a block of wood to tap around the knuckle face to drive it onto the axle enough that the axle threads come through the hub. then you can use the axle nut to pull the axle through all the way. remove nut and install the washers. make sure you install the washers correctly. the cone washer goes on first, then the flat washer. pay attention to the flat washer as it is slightly bowl shaped, with the round side facing away from the axle, this is designed to hold torque. if the washer is on backwards the nut will back off and compromise the wheel bearings or hub splines its a good idea to get new washers as some wheel bearing failures are die to bad or improperly installed washers now you can put everything back together. if you are using the same brake pads the caliper will fit like it already did. if you are installing new brake pads, or you accidentally actuated the parking lever, you will need to turn the piston face with a piston tool or large pliers to seat the puston in its bore before installation hope this helps, it will make more sense wen you have everything apart. good luck!

when i first put the carb back together, i had fuel coming from the vent tube because the float was tweaked. i'll remove the solenoid and open the car agian, and try to blow out the return and vent lines and see what that does. hopefully my problem is most likely going to be in the fuel inlet chamber, where i havent looked yet.

a lot of times you can just loosen the bolt and shove the pip ein mtoe and hold it on while tightening the bolt you can get an o-ring to replace it, or put a bead of silicone around the existing 0-ring if you are in a pinch