MilesFox

with the condition left by the previous owner, with the odd size tires, will stress the output shaft to the rear instead of the front diff. the front diff would only be compromised by low gear fluid sorry to bark at you. welcome aboard!

the wiper control will either be on the drop panel under the steering column(87 gl) or on the ecu mount nut on the right(89 gl) i cant imagine a loyale being different. hope this helps. the module is blue

well you cant shift in to 4wd while doing wheel spins or you will break it there is no center diff, it is a pto shaft, assuming you have a pushbutton 4wd you should look up about how to use your 4wd. you cant do it on pavement or engage while making u-turns it may seem like a 'weak' 'AWD' system but you would be surprized how many of these cars are ruined by weak owners

what numbchux said. been there with all of that, including the brake lines (and bent caliper) i got over 10,000 mi on a ripped inner boot in my sedan, this included an off road meet and 2 winter driving seasons. i replaced the axle before it ever broke

So i picked ump an 86 3door gl from near the u-haul on w. jefferson, was hoping to drive it back to milwaukee, but had to tow it instead. 1.8 ea82 sohc hitachi carb, 109,000 mi fwd 5spd i got the car with a bad fuel pump. i replaced the and got to run, idle for about 10 min and she stalled. next morning i got her to start by clocking the disty. timing was right, i checked all the belts and they are spot on. trying to pull some revs and she falls flat as if the primary jet is not functioning. if i milk the throttle i can get her revved up enough to open the secondaries i was able to hold down the rpms when i got a bunch of smoke and an odoe that smelled like super glue. noticed the cats were glowing cherry red so i shut her down i pulled the cats and poked them out, as there were already chunks of melted ceramic falling out anyway. put the exhaust back on and same deal. have to clockt he disty to start, falls flat when you open the throttle tore off the top of the carb and found a rust chunk in the bowl. cleaned that out and replaced the gross cork gasket with gasket paper i cut myself checked the timing again and tuned it with a timing light. same issue, *************** to start, wont rev out. i wa able to drivet he car and get half way hrough 2nd gear before she 'runs out of gas' i for a new inline filet, the see through lawnmower type. i get a tricklw when i cycle the fuel pump, but nothing in between. if i pull the feel line i get a trickle at first, and then a fat stream after the trickle, but when i connect the hose again, very little flow when the pump is on, i get a high pressure stream coming from the return port on the carb there is a feed, return, and vent line at the carb itself. i do get strong fuel flow (4-7 psi pump) i am wondering if the gas tank has venting issues? i removed the cap to no avail all of the vacuum lines at the carb and their related solenoids are intact and routed properly my next attempt is to blow out the return and vent lines with compressed air. if all fails i have another gas tank in a donor car i would like to have this car run and drive so i can put a plate on it and park on the street otherwise i am considering parting off my 300 dollar legacy to swap in the ej22 and its 5spd fwd that will fit the gl body the same. and if the carb is good, i'll run the ea82 motor in the legacy with a carb to keep it around as a functioning car, untill i find a 5spd donor any carb knowledge out there? __________________

if you want to go ej and all that is involvesd, understanding an ea82 timing belt is simple in comparison unless you know the maintenance history on your ea82, i would second general disorder's idea of the belt losing some teeth. that happened to me and fooled me once. car qiot as if it had a broken belt. belt was intact. had someone turn the starter while i watched, belt did not move!if get a haynes book or look up the timing belt articel here on usmb, and go through the motions. that will at least tell you the belt jumped dont let the shop tell you you have bent valves or bad heads since that is commonly misdiagnosed by mechanics that are not familiar with subarus if you are going to spend 500-1000 bucks at your car, throw only a small percentage at me and i will drive out there and get your car running by poking a stick at it. better ax somebody! really, if you would be serious....milesfox@yahoo.com

the fuel pump is located in front of the passenger on a mounting plate held on by rear tire, 3 screws. try with a new battery and make sure the alt is not fried. if the volts are too low, then its going to throw off all the electronic functions

sounds like a babe rally candidate. we go through cherokee on the rally. i could theoretically park a car. i have 7 of them now

i have been there twice. the first time, the guy invited me in and showed me his shop, chattes soobs for better than an hour. the next time i went, he didnt give me the time of day, and wanted way too much, and stressed the point how he can make thousands off one outback selling parts to dealers, abd the old ea's are dinosuars. from what i have seen, he his making his money on new soobs, not doing anything with the old ones, and they just sit there, because who would have the heart to crush all them soobs! the new soobs turn around quick. there are parts on the shelf for ea81/82's if what you need is already on the shelf. he brings them in one at a time for parts, so this means any in the yard are as complete as they came in, with titles. if he let you in the yard and pull your own parts, consider it a honor and a true privilege as he has been sed for liability on more than one occasion. you may very ell have the 'in' with this guy to go pull parts. he only deals with subaru dealers and doesnt bother or take the time to deal over the internet. if you are in there pulling your own parts, you will own the ebay market for ea81/82 soobs congratulations!

those videos were shot almost 5 years ago, back in april of o5. it was only 3 years ago since ihad the tapes captured to dvd, 2 years ago since i had a computer with software, a year ago when i last uploaded, and finally now for that batch of videos. there will be a good 175 toatal videos from that catch of tape. they can be redundant, but there was no such thing as youtube when i shot the stuff originally.

this has the 3.0 v6 between both trucks. i am told a 5spd manual will swap in, and may as well put in a supra straight six! my 78 camper has a 20r, 2.2 manual 4spd, sort of the ea81 version of the toyota u-haul:rolleyes: half ton axle, single tire the u-haul is dual axle, 1 ton it looks like the fame is different as far as the front crossmember is taller on the 4wd, and welded to the frame. i would assume the front half of the frames would have to be chopped in, and somehow adapt the 1 ton hubs onto the front axle. the 4 runner wheels are almost twice as big as the 14 inch wheels

I have a 1990 1 ton truck, u-haul spec, 3.0 v6, automatic, dually rear axle (10 ft u-haul) i also have for parts a 1990 4runner 3.0v6 4wd automatic. i am wondering if any of the transmission or 4wd is swappable onto the 1 ton, or at least what is worth keeping from the 4 runner before i scrap it. the 4 runner has the same engine, but the engine does not spin and there is no coolant. hopefully i could get this 4 runner to run. aside from that, i have swapped the front fenders, hood, bumper and grille to the u-haul i am going to swap the instrument cluster to have a tach, and the odometer is within 1000 mile difference door panels with pockets look like they will fit also. maybe the rear tire carrier will fit on the u-haul for extra security and to make a cargo mount.

are you converting to the whole spfi, which will require swapping the engine harness? otherwise the spfi motor bolts in the same. you can put the carb intake on the spfi motor and go from 8.5 compression to 9.5 compression. you may have to block off some egr passages, though

we drove 5500 miles cross country and back in an 87 rx with the diff locked in FWD, because we had to remove a rear axle, because one of the wheel bearings were bad and we rode with an xt6 5 lug on the one side. had no problems, but we were running FWD

backlash in the driverside belt. adjust the tensioner. your tach is juming around, isn't it?

i bought a loyale that had the belts installed wrong. i went to look at it, and offered to fix it for him for my price, or let me fix it and sellit to me for his price. an hour later, i drove it out of his barn. so if you see any subarus for sale with 'bent valves' for cheap, snatch them up, because you will have a good car with new belts for an hour of your time. good luck with your belts, hope the article helps, feel free to ask me questions if you need help milesfox@yahoo.com

the coupe windshield is different from wagons or sedans. it rakes back at a sharper angle, and is narrower at the top vs the bottom. same goes for the front windows and mirror mounts, since the cope rake is different. you will need a replacement from a coupe only. i just junked a coupe. i wouldhave made an attempt to salvage the windshield if i know someone would have been hollaring for one. anyway i have the door glass and the liftgate glass good luck

i would think it would fall under open container laws. as far as it being legal in a limo, that may have to do with the driver having a chauffeur's(sp?) license

Yo! The Doctor is in. staying out of trouble:lol:?

bees tend to nest in subarus. maybe they are attracted to the shape? its like those beetles in australia BECAUSE THEY ARE HUMPING BROWN BEER BOTTLES INSTEAD OF FEMALE BEETLES.

take a look at the dimmer swithc. there are 2 cases that i can account for where the dimmer switch burned out

if you have an ea82 car, there is a left and right fuse on the panel