MilesFox

get ahold of alleyboy in columbus. he is looking for a complete setup, mainly the ecu and engine harness to convert from carb(85 wagon)

put a bolt and a nut thru the banjo end of the brake line using the copper washers. that or find a fpld overr and pinch off the steel brake line itself, but you would have to replace it.

do not junk this car! if no one secures it, i can tow it away with my towbar. milesfox@yahoo.com i am in milwaukee

any other ea81:banana: axle will work. left and right are both the same

i agree about the bad u-joint. you can swap in the rear half of the driveshaft from any manual or automatic ea82, since the rear halfs are all the same lengths between drivelines and it contains both u-joints. otherwise if you need to pull the gas tank you can do it by dropping the diff down from the hanger, but it does not have to come entirely out, or undo any of the axles. i yanked the tank out of my sedan and towed ot to the junkyard witht eh diff and axles just hanging there by the pivot bolt.

all rear diffs(with male stubs) are 23 splines

swap out the transmission from the top starter to the side starter bellhousing. this will let you use ea81 and ea82 engines, and also an ej to ea bellhousing adapter.

the fuel pump relay will be hot on one side and it grounds thru the ecu. the ecu has to be live to ground out the relay to kick on the fuel pump. does the horn and clock work? they are on the 'hot all the time' circuit. check fuse number 5 "horn/clock/hazard fuse, since this also supplys 12v constant to the ecu. a common problem for this fuse going bad is during stereo installs when you would accidentally ground out the constant 12v green wire if you backfed 12v thru the green wire on the radio this should make the eu come live, if it is in fact dead good luck

egr stuck open? inspect the egr vac circuit and solenoid. you may have to take it off and clean all the crap out of it.

86 brat, high topper 270,000 mi last average on highway driving was 28.6 mpg, this was a mix of highway driving and county roads, across 3-400 miles, half of which the back was loaded with a ej22 and a transmission. average speed was within 65 mph, i try to be consious of my cruising speed which plays out to be about 63 mph @ 3,000 rpms on 185/70 wheels. when i boufht the brat the seller told me the valve lash has been adjusted. so you guys in the hi-mileage ea81's should consider the valve lash to get that last bit of mpg out of your old soobs

yeah i have see these before, its for the spare. i think the threaded 'wingnut' is a little different for the rear()longer) but is the same thread. but who wants to unload their whole car just to change a flat tire?

the only reason i have a brat in wisconsin is because it came from virginia. all the ones from here rusted in half before anyon eknew about them. and this one is probably too rusty by VA standards, but is within 'clean body" standards for wisconsin. and then you PNW folks who think your cars will buckle in half over some flash rust.....

so this is the history of the brat. i would have never known. once we picked it up from the babe rally i swapped out the 175 h-style wheels on the brat withthe 185 h-style wheels on the trashwagon, so now both cars have the right tires insted of 10mph speedo differences between the 2. i picked up a hi-topper and another front axle from tomrhere over the weekend, and hauled back an ej22 and an xt6 tranny. turns out a legacy i was looking to purchase was sold out from under me....to the parts guy at the soob dealer....who called me looking for a motor. the brat has been great. i found a gross vac leak and replaced the rear fuel filter and now she is getting a good 28 mpg all day long. i have already located a front fender and steel chrome bumpers from an 82 dl wagon that sits at a farm in northern wisconsin. i already have the center console form the same car, so now i have an ashtray and a cubby where the driver side speaker was, but still no radio. according to tom, ea82 seats bolt right in as he showed me in his red nevada brat, and i have my choice of rx seats or xt seats already modded for ea82. so now i know where thst goofy dent came from. still need to bleed the front brake, she is a little darty on abrupt stops. rear shocks are floppy but i would like to mod in ea82 coilovers with the rust reapir in the wheel wells. i'm depating if this car is candidate for TRASHBRAT or unofficially TRASHWAGONX (10) i am half tempted to swap in my rx tranny and rear end along withthe 5 lugz, and the possiblility of ea82t. if so, this woulod be the height of ea evolution and would properly be trashwagon10 from an evolution standpoint. although i would like to do something different with a paint job this time...

if that trans can make it over to jim wood or alleyboy(john0 then i can bring it as far as wisconsin, and maybe MN

put on the side of the belt opposite of the tensioner and let the slack side go towards the tensioner, work in that direction. otherwise if you have slack that could make the marks not appear right. the notch on the timing belt covers line up with the cam cover seals although you can install the passenger belt with the cam dot facing down atfter installing the first belt, you are better off rotating the crank 360 degrees and installing the belt cam dot up so the cam is at rest with the valvetrain

i have installed several legacy hitches at u-haul. the holes on the side of the hitch will bolt thru the tow hooks with metal spacers for to give it sturdiness. the holes on the top of the hitch will bolt thru holes on the bodt into the captive nut thingy in the photo. the holes you will use will be the rubber plugs you pop out from the framerail. in order to get the captive nut thingy where you want it, lift up the carpet in the back and pop out the rubber plugs on that side to feed it thru. if you have too much difficulty, you can go to the nearest u-haul and they should be able to print you off the instructions. whatever part number you have will be the same on eon u-haul inventory. otherwise they might have to mock a install quote to get the part number, then the instructions hope this helps

the only variations with exhausts is the mid pipe between 2wd and 4wd. an ea82 y-pipe will work also, but it will hang lower then the ea81 with the spacer plates on the exhaust ports. a full ea82 exhaust should all fit the same. otherwise there should be no difference between any ea81 y pipe, except for those that have an o2 sensor.

The state of Wisconsin refuses to acknowledge the brat as a passenger vehicle, so i had to chuck the money for truck plates. the brat does have jump seats, as it came from the factory to avoid TRUCK tarriffs. i guess it's no big deal, but i would have rather used an existing plate for my car i sold rather than buy a new plate. and for states that prohibit passengers in the back of a truck, would it still be legal to ride in the jump seats? wisconsin classifies the brat as a truck because it has an open bed. the subaru dealer insists it should be an AUTO UT registration. there are suv's with car plates in wisconsin. the dealer also made mention of the ford explorer sport trac, with it's open bed, is still a passenger vehicle. and that they also have been registering new BAJA's as auto ut as well. so how about you all brat owners? car or truck plates?

this car was originally FWD 3at. the 5spd is a conversion. if it had rx trans and 5 lugs it would be the ultimate ea82 package!

your best bet is to go find a junkyard motor. you could have one for as little as 100 bucks if you take apart your motor, tou have time and tools involved to split the case and pull wrist pins. you will need the bearings and head gaskets and engine seals. if you find a junkyard motor(carb motors with 8.5 compression, 85-86 nad some 87's) you will only need to take the heads off, basically a head hgasket job as it would be, swapping all the turbo heads and intakes. find the ones with broken timing belts. this means that is why they are junked instead of bad head gaskets. running ea82s get junked over broken axles and bad clitches, check FWD's and manual cars you could probably gety away with an spfi block (9.5 compression) but you will have to make sure the knock sensor functions and the timing is not advanced, and better gas.

here is the battery relocated using an ea82 motor. otherwise use ea82 battery cablesto the starter and connect the fuse link lead to the alternator. the original wiring on the car still sends current thru the fuse block. the terminal where the stock fuse link lead was can be used to connect a 2nd battery(to power the car but not the starter, unless you bridge the battery pos terminals like a diesel truck)

just off hand based on doing trailer wiring on many makes i would think that green is tail black is ground green/yel turn green/red brake blue/red reverse but i am just guessing

i was going to suggest this. make sure the plug ins are connected at the carburetor and the related fuses are good. the fuel pump control unit senses coil spark to kick on the fuel pump while running. take off the line and see if fuel comes out while cranking. otherwise you can connect the fuel pump relay to something that comes on with the key, such as the +coil rerminal

a/8' socket extension fits in the polit hole. wrap the extension in tape to meet the diameter of the clutch disc