MilesFox

on the fuel rail, the line topmost in th emiddle is the supply line, the other is the return line. the smallest of the 3 hoses is the charcoal canister vent line from the tank.

fuel pump? you can plug a fuelpressure gauge to the hose into the filter and plug in the green test clips to cycle the fuel pump. test it there, then after the regulator(while running the fuel pressure regulator is on the return side of the fuel injectors

turbos with 3at automatics are 23 splines with the larger diameter DOJ. doj's are swappable.

i have decided to stick with the xt6 knuckle. i finally have all 4 wheels on and off the jackstands. my only problem now is the spindle seat where it meets the rear bearing seal, its sortof crammed inthere now. i noticed i have 2 different axles, both from an legacy, butone is thisnner with a smaller dia. DOJ. i could not get the skinnt axle in because it did not move inward enough to install the bakk joint stud(reamed out control arms) i am wondering if this axle i ended up with was for a fwd legacy or some sort of awd impreza? i will have to get pics soon. as for the parking brake, the knuckle and caliper are all xt6 now.

cam tower o-ring: notice the dab of silicone on the o-ring itself to hold it in place during installation

they can break if you are too brute with them. what are you using for tools. i find the best method outside of an impact is to use a 1/2" dr ratchet or breaker bar and enough extension to bring your tool outside of the wheel well, use a pipe for leverage. you dont want to turn the wrench faster than the bolt or it can twist off. use steady even torque and dont reef on the tool too fast. do noy use jerking or bouncing type forces against it. slow sand steady is the trick, and be sure to keep yout tool square on the bolt. soak in some pb blaster or other non-wd40 spray. turn the bolt out what you can untill it gets too tight, then work it back in, work it in and out, as you do this it will help to clean off the threads as it goes back and forth. spray the exposed threads as you do this. i learned that trick form stubborn semi trailer wheel studs! just take your time, it will give withthe right coaxing. don't force it!

dont forget there is an oil pump shaft seal. there is also an undersize replacement seal as trhe seal can wear a groove on the shaft. you can also set the seal so it is not riding on the groove. withthe timing belts off, you can spin up the oil pump pulley with a 12mm socker on a drill or impact, clockwise. here is an article if that helps: http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/oilpump.htm

i have put an ea82 carb motor in an ea81. i also put in the ea82 5spd to go with. otherwise you have to enlarge the flywheel holes or mix and matuc pressure plates. as far as the other way around goes, i have put ea81 in a turbo ea82 car body. either way you will have to hack the waring harness into the car. you could very well go with an ej22 with all the work involved, and then slap on your typical aftermarket wrx junk

take off the exhaust at the y pipe flange. mate a flange to a 2 " cherry bomb right after the y pipe and run straight pi;e to the rear. bump the timing up a few degrees. the ea82 isnt the most powerful motor in the world, but they do like rpm's and are quite fun! do like i say withthe exhaust and you will have a fat midrange curve, open up the top end a little more but not lose much bottom end at the same time. its not your typical 'wrx' and you can't really 'tune' it in the modern sense, but you can put it together any way you like from parts off just about any other subaru. its like a big set of legos, and you get to drive it

you may search about it, since i remember over time reading mentions of it. sorry i dont have a direct answer, and this is not your typical "just search it" response.

i have noticed that the front valence bolts will be 12 or 10 mm depending on year. but the holes locations are the same. i recommend pulling hte bumper off furst if you are changing fenders, since the front most bolts are bhind the bumper skin

there is a product called ZRC Galvilite zinc paint that is 95% zinc content. if you paint over your repair with that, the zinc in the paint will corrode isntead of the steel turning into rust, it will alt least prolong the whole corrosion process

between both cars, you have all the parts necessary. just drill the holes out for the rear diff hanger and make a mount for the carrier bearing. use the clutch cable for the 4x4 trans as well, since the threaded part is different than the FWD

sounds like you are using the wrong mark. \use the ||| mark, not the 0 deg when lining up the crank itself

just to throw this out there, check the horn/hazard/clock fuse as it supplies constant voltage to the ecu

according to your first picture, the pressure regulator is the part where the top hose is connecting on the throttle body. there should be a vac line on th ebottom of it. if i remember correctly, the regulator is on the return side of the fuel circuit

all front bumpers will interchange. the plug for the turn lights may be different depending on which side of 1987 they are. just to add another note, wagon rear bumpers mount differently than sedan/3door

what transmission do you have? is is spfi or carb? i have swapped one into an 88 dl once. there are a few tricks depending on what you are starting with

that is pretty much THE hot-all-the-time circuit, and supplies power to the ecu. without it, you turn the car on and everything is live except for the ecu itself, without that fuse. before i figured this out on my car i was backfeeding voltage to the green wire via the toggle switch for a fog light circuit i had installed before

probably poked a hole in it.

i have done this myself. check the horn/hazard/clock fuse as well since it is 12v+ all the time

is the difference in length on the axle shaft or the splines? i currently have legacy knuckle with axle in my rx now, see my 5 lug post in this forum for pics. the extreme angles in the pics are due to forester struts, not axle lenght. but i am running 25 splines on a turbo trans

what did you do for tie rods? did you have to use different ones or adjust tnem for toe?

f'n amazing! this answers a lot of questions i have been contemplating with using legacy knuckles in the RX

your lights are probably off aim and pointing up and not on the road.