MilesFox

the way the wheel fell off, it would pull the axle out of the DOJ cup. aside from the boot possibly being ripped, the axle could be put back together and run again

i bet if you run a jumper cable from the pos batt terminal to the starter terminal she will go. if so, this confirms a bad cable

gotcha. you said legacy and not impreza. good point. here are some new pics: the xt6 knuckle/caliper/rotor on the legacy with FWD 91 legacy strut angle of the legacy tierod on the xt6 knuckle axle nut where it doesn't thread on all the way(bottoms out against rotor) wheel alignment with xt knuckle on legacy's tie rod, steeringis centered

i actually dont mind the idea of having to lift it for proper ride height. because if so, i would have more travel then the traditional ea82 lift. good advice on the axles, though. if i had to purchase axles, i'm sure FWD legacy would be cheaper than xt 6's. i am thinking you meant fwd legacy because the seal seat is different but now i think of it did you mean 23 spline for a non turbo xt? this is the RX so i need 25 spline axlses if this is what you meant.

you have voltage until you turn the ket because whatever bad connection you have can carry idle voltage but not the cranking voltage. i bet you a dollar it is the positive cable itself, somewhere inside the insulation or immediately where either end meets the starter terminal or the battery terminal. trust me on this one. also check the negative ground cable where it connects to the water pipe on the motor, and the negative cable at the starter where it gorunds to the bellhousing bolt.

you are correct: 98 forester strut 95 legacy knuckle and its axle/rotor/caliper i will have to take pictures of the legacy tie rod, since it is parked on the street with the xt knuckle installed. as far as the strut tops go they are a direct match. no modifications to the strut tops themselves. what you are looking at is a sirect pill off of a legacy strut assembly. i did ream the holes out slightly with a 3/8 drill but i think the strut tower is slightly distorted on the rx anyway. if there is a difference on the holes it would only be a difference of about 1/16th of an inch i already had the xt knuckle in the rx with a 2wd legacy strut. but since i was working on it i just kind of "borrowed" the whole strut from my legacy to see how it fits. once agian this notion came about for the lack of a proper xt6 axle, because the legacy axle doesnt quite fit right in the xt6 hub.

i guess no one is going to reply. i guess the one time i actually ask a question, i will have to be the one who answers it... anyway.... for the other side i am going to mock up the xt6 knuckle with the forester strut to see how that fits. the xt6 knuckle obviously will be a better match for the tie rods anyway. although i do like the idea of swapping the legacy steering rack or possibly retrofitting the entire front crossmember, that is too much work to get into.....unless i had a welder:) anyway i will keep the pictures coming, and try different combinations just to explore possibilities beyond the xt6 knuckle.

i was referring to ea82 models

check the battery cable where it connects to the starter. make sure the cround cable is secure on the starter as well. your symptoms are classic of a loose/bad connection. otherwise if everything checks out, the positive cable itself may have a break inside its insulation.

you will want to carryover the ea81 upper radiator hose to go with to reach the radiator

here are some pics to start with you can see the extreme angle of the suspension, mainly because of the forester strut. the lower control arm is fighting the swaybar to stuff this whole assembly in there. here is the tranny end of the axle here is the angle on the tierod itself and the whole assembly. According to these pictures, about how much crossmember lift would be aprropriate to offset this extreme angle if i keep the forester struts? opinions and advice please from those of you who have built lifts and installed 5 lugs please...

you can swap in the ea82 motor itself. you will have to lengthen the coil wires and you can install the battery on the other side to match(if you cut out the jack mount). there will be clearnace around the hill holder, you will have to unbolt it and bend it out the way or remvie it entirely. if you swap an the ea82 its easiest to remove the disty first, install the motor, and then the disty to clear the MC. you may have to cut off one of the tabs to the disty and mount it somewhat off center and then clock the rotor to its proper location. but it can be done, i have done a couple of them myself. you can have an ea82 motor and tranny the front struts and axles will not work unless you find a way to swap ove rthe ea82 lower control arms, since the axles are longer, and the lower control arm sits farther back on the ea82 so you will need some fab skills and a good understanding of alignment, but yet agian, it can be done. but aside from all that complicates suspension conversion, the motor swap is still practical.

So i have been in the middle of installing xt-6 parts on my rx for the suspension. I had one side put together when all of a sudden i just up and parted the knuckle off my 95 legacy to see how it fits. the suspension is MAXED out just to get it to fit, having a 98 forester strut in there as well, i think i should need a 2-3 inch lif to go with, can you say suspension travel? one thing i noticed is the axle angle is very extreme, as well as that of the the rod end. i will have to find my key to unlock the steering to see how straight the assembly is, and to see if the tie rod clears the knuckle, bit i think it will end up being toed out. lets just say my legacy is parked on the street with one xt-6 knuckle and 3 14 inch steelies at this moment, and drives this way. the wheel on the legacy is toed inward. so this prompts me a question. how different are legacy knuckles form imprezas? since the legacy is definately different than the xt-6. i ask because i want t onow what the options are for tie rod lenght and where it fits in relation to the knuckle. i will have to take some measurements so long as i know which way to measure it for comparison(are there such dmensions for tie rod mounts in relation to the hub?) another thing i noticed is the legacy axle doesnt quite fit right on the xt knuckle, since the seat on the spindle interferes withthe seal on the xt knuckle, and the threads arent quite long enough to take up the entire nut. (and this is why i tried fitting the legacy knucke in the rx, because i dont have xt6 axles) i have some pics but i need to upload them and what is the possibility of swapping steering racks between the legacy and the rx and withthe ide aif a lift in mind. how about the whole front crossmember? (yes i know i will have to account for the lower control arm mount as well) i am almost willing to tear my legacy apart just to compare parts.

just to add to this post, the axle nuts and related cone and flat washers are interchangeable between any ea81 and ea82, front and rear. 1980-1994 dl, gl, loyale, xt, rx, gl-10 (yup that would be everything with a 36mm axle nut)

85 and 86 are glued on. 87 and later snap onto holes on the body.

screw the platinums they really wont be any better and will be more prone to foul. you want NGK v power plugs, with the part number "the loyale" has posted. be careful with your coil selection as it could potentially stress the ignition amplifier unit. the bosch platinums of any design are known to foul prematurely if you search around about it. otherwise you can go with the custom make your own 8mm wire kuts and gap your plugs to .045 to run a hotter spark. but if you have problems where your car quits all of a sudden and wont start again after it sits a while youwill want to put in your stock coil. if you do install the aftermarket coil, at least keep the stocker as a spare because there are stories of aftermarket coils causing problems and the stocker hanging out in the trunk saves the day.

looks like he was running with no y pipe with the rolls of dust under the car as if a helicopter were landing.

there is a hydraulioc tensioner fo the belt. the belt itself has 3 marks on it that line upo with corresponding marks on the pulleys. its possible the belt could be a tooth off. there are several marks on the crank itself for te belt alignment. i'm not sure which one off hand to line up to but it will beone of the marks that are more by itself than the other marks. the tensioner is held on with 2 bolts, when you remove the tensioner you squeezeit down in a vise and inser a pin and reinstall it. once the belt is lined up you pull the pun and the tensioner expands agaisnt the belt. you should post in the 'new generaton of subarus' forum since the legacy is considered newer gen according to this forum. sorry i cant help any more but if you search you should find some articles with diagrams on the internet. the guys in the new gen forum could point you in the right direction.

1985 GM small block chevy 350. 54mm

lower idle is normal. average normal idel should be around 700 rpm or so. as far as bad plugs go, i have had motors that would run on 2 cylinders when cold, then 3 then 4 as it warms up. it wouldnt hurt to check out the plugs if you have a rough idle.

the chassis of the brat is based off a wagon. so anythign from the wagon will swap over, including body panels from the front fenders forward.

the turbine on the inside of the water pump has probably gound off to a nub and therefore is not circulating. i have had water pump pulleys fall out(major leakage) or snap clean off. replace it now. if you dont take care of it now the belts will start squalling and you will either overheat due to bad curculation, lose a belt or the pulley, ir the shaft just falls out and there goes all your coolant, plus above problems.

if you accidentally damaged one of the shafts, a replace ment from any 3spd will do, wether it be ea81 or ea82, 2wd or 4wd

i have almost put myself thru the windshield transitioning to an automatic. that or shifting into R or P while moving! and then after being used to column shifts, i grab air or the turn lever when transitioning back to stick.

try this for a repair