MilesFox

Any 4x4 non turbo 5mt with 23 spline axle is 3.9 gear. This is a direct swap between your 2 cars. You will want the dual range shifter cover plate to match the interior. Turbo 5mt 4wd are 3.7 gear for push button, full time, and rx dual range with 25 spline axle are 3.7. Exception is xt6 full time 3.9 3at is 3.9 non turbo 87 and up and turbo 3.7. 85 and 86 3at may be 3.7 Fwd drama is talker gear than either 4wd but not sure on the rstio

The case halves come apart for rods, for which you would remove the piston wrist pins from the access plugs in the case. There is more chance the valves are ok than not with sohc. Generally the DOHC engine would collide valves with eachother. It is not much labor to re hang the belt provided you have replacement parts. Good luck

Difficulty in steering would allude that a belt is loose as this belt also runs the alternator. A recent belt service would be conducive to this. Check the belts for tension as they may need a snug since stretching in. Check this cirst

You might have to combo some nylon bushings with metric hardware to invent your own. These will be certainly dealer or salvage absolable only. It never hurts to ditch the covers anyway

You might have to combo some nylon bushings with metric hardware to invent your own. These will be certainly dealer or salvage absolable only. It never hurts to ditch the covers anyway

The bolts are shouldered, being about 3/4 inch long, the top part 8mm wide and the thread shank m6x1.00. The head has a flange and is 10mm hex. Teh lower bolts are about an inch long all thread 6x1.00 thread and 10mm head.m

put it on the pan side of the gasket and leave the block side dry. I have used copper permatex on exhaust gaskets. I would recommend or prefer ultra grey on any oil seals. Good luck

The one thing you should know is there are 2 timing belts and the crankshaft requires a. 360 deg rotation between installing the 2nd belt and tdc is not used for belt alignment, but however the cams are timed when all 4 cylinders are in the center of their stroke. You will want to find tdc first, tho, before finding the crankshaft mark do that your distributor is. It 180 out. You may have the best luck pulling the engine as it affords you the most access to the cam towed and engine seals. Be careful not to twist off the intake bolts as they pass thru a water jacket. It is not necessary to replace the head bolts as they are not tty unless they are excessively corroded where they pass thru the water jacket. Pay attention to the length as the middle bolts are shorter. Pay attention to the orientation of the washer as they are similar to spring washer how they are cut

I would guess the torque converter lock is not working. In drive, at highway speed the tc lock should engage and feel like an overdrive shift, say at 2500 rpm at 65 mph. When let off the gas at speed, you should feel it compression brake. When accelerating, the tc lock would disengage allowing the rpm to increase slightly, and full pedal will cause a 3 rd gear downshift.

For the sake of archive since search still brings this topic

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They will give you a shirt and jacket. I have signed up! Maybe they have our emails from the badge of ownership programs.

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There is no harm in switching to a synthetic. Old man tales need not apply. If the engine leaks, fix the seals! I am using mobil 0w40 in all my soobs in place of 10w40 as it is appropriate for winter -20 and below as well as full hot summer such as a 10w or 15w40. It actually reduced consumption in my 98 ej25d 135,000 mi over a 5w30. And 5w30 is not recommended

Ths is interesting. I had a customer in my oil ship that had this code the day after her oil change. Did you do an oil change? I suspect the code was dripped in the mmentary pressure loss during the initial startup after changing the filter. Prime your filter, folks!

My 98 forester is almost ready to turn 250,000 in the next 5000 mi and its original transmission The 2.2 engine i swapped into it has just over 250,000 mi. My 96 impreza is relatively young at 189,000 mi, but i think the front diff bearings are shot and the duty c is acting up (previous condition) not to worry, i have a 187,000 mi 97 legacy to use as a donor drivetrain. Of all my subarus past, more of them have been in 200,000 mi territory and a few past 275,000. My lowest mile subaru is my 86 gl with 110,000 original m leage and an 80,000 mi ej22 swap.

Check oil and add as needed between 5000 mi. Of oil consumes, consider a 0w40 oil. Good luck.

Both a 75w90 and an 80w90 are still 90 wt oil at load and temp. the 75w will flow better when cold (northern climate) and may be better for your fuel economy. This is my logic when using a 75w90 over an 80w90 in my application where it calls for 80w90 all temps or straight 90 for hot climate.

Sorry, i retract my statement: was thinking ea82. Actually my very first subaru, 84 gl wagon, had issues with trying to get into lo range and the nut was coming loose on the ball end of the linkage. Good luck

when pushbutton trans, no lever

use a 195/60 tire for 14 inch wheels to stay at an approprate diameter for the speedo.

I am using mobil 1 75w90 in both front and rear diff. 2 bottles will do, .o8 in the rear and 1.3 in the front. (4eat) If a manual trans, use only a straight 80w90. If using a synthetic 75w90 in a manual trans, it MUST be synchromesh for bronze parts AND gl-5 rated for the front diff. Subaru extra-s recommended or any synchromesh fluid with a gl-5 rating. Most of these synchromesh oils will be gl-4 rated which is not appropriate for the diff in the manual trans

no stop leak! fix the oil pump shaft seal. Maybe the steering pump reservoir is leaking.

the small hose under the manifold from the thermostat to the top of the block. 1/4" size hose. do not use fuel line. this will drip onto the top of the block and run off the back of the engine. alos inspect the lower hose where the metal pipe attaches to the water pump. replace the o-ring. Fix hoses as stop leak does nothing unless the radiator itself has a pinhole leak.