MilesFox

i put 98 forester new kyb gr2 struts all the way arond on my 95 legacy. the front sits up pretty good but the rear doesnt seem so much. the car appears to be at normal ride height except for the awesome fender to wheel clearance in the front. BUT i think this has to do with the stock rear springs beign worn or too short, since i really didnt need the spring compressor to install the springs. plus the original rar struts were blown out and rattled. between the car at rest and up on a jack, there is a good 6 inches of travel in the rear. if i replaced the springs the car would look more like the pics posted above, and i'm sure the fronts will come up a little along with. my wheels are 195/60 15

if you are going to modify a newer subaru, and for the sake of reliability, the best ones would be 95-97 era if you find one that is not very worn. the newer ones from there were more prone to head gasket problems, but not too much different driveline wise. aside from the mention about custom lift kits, you can swap on forester springs and struts to a regular legacy or impreza to gain some ground clearance. go browse http://www.dirtyimpreza.com for ideas of what can be done

the headlights themselves ground thru the switch. i would suggest the switch itself is bad, and causing your problem

might i add to junkies post front axles are different than rear axles. all ea82 rear axles are 23 splines, regardless of model turbo 5spds are 25 splines. full time automatics are 25 splines BUT turbo 3spds are 23 splines left or right side does not matter as stated by junkie if your parts counter man seems incompetent, any turbo 5spd will do if the rx is not listed specifically. just make sure the axle in the box is the right one since sometimes they can be listed correctly, but packaged wrong otherwise to default, look up a 89 gl-10, because either the auto or 5spd for that model will be the correct axle

yes, the 4eat with lsd is an rx factory package, for those with no left foot!

the headlights do turn off withthe car the single green wire is hot all the time, connect to that for your memory. the speakers are common ground, so if you have weird fade balance issues, use one negative wire on the front channel and one for the rear, leave the remaining negative wires unconnected.

the fan is designed to run in the acc position, as well as the wipers, too. just turn the car all the way off if you dont want it to run if the fan comes on right away after the car has cooled off (overnite) then the thermo switch may be stuck the thermo switch is located on the bottom corner of the radiator with a blue and yellow wire. ite basically a temp sensor that completes the ground to the fan once it warms up. one wire is hot all the time, the other is ground. the switch completes ground if the fan running annoys you, then you can substitute the thermo switch with a toggle connecting the blue and yellow wires. just dont forget to turn it on when you drive! i always prefer the clutch fan for reliability, you can add one from another car if you like.

yes, this is exactly what i meant. the design my buddy had was more like that on a leaf spring, but this is the idea that i was implying

much more fixable than mine. the rocker is folded in and the rear door striker is smashed on mine. at least that one can be pulled out for the most part.(compared to mine)

i would do a '3rd gear split' or "simulated 6 spd. start off in lo 1,2,3, then stay in 3 and hi, then 4 hi and 5hi. you will get a lot of power band out of 3rd gear by splitting it that way.

based on this notion, it would be an 'awd' with an open diff. but if the diff is open then 100% of the power can go to the front or rear, and with an open front diff, 100% to just one wheel. so tecnically not "all wheel drive" and withthe diff locked its a true 4wd (because it will bind on pavement)

make sure its from a 5 spd becaus e the 2 pc shaft from an AT will be shorter, because an AT is longer. BUT, if you ever have to replace u-joints, just replace the rear half of the shaft as they are the same lenght for either. the carier bearing is mounted to the front piece.

my sedan took a hit almost like that on the passenger side, perhaps with more force. lucky for me i was driving, and had no passengers. i could only wonder what injury could have been. hooray for car insurance. and i have a crushed center console too!

yeah you would drop the moustache bar down. but you ned to drop the front down as well so you dont end up with a 90 deg driveshaft angle. this is what i meant about making a 'drop shackle', the kit pictures here shows just that. whay is this so hard to be comprehended?

here is what i know n'a cars are 3.9 turbo cars are 3.7 the xt6 full time had vlsd 3.9 on some of them the rx had lsd from the factory 85 and 86 and maybe some 87 ea82 3at non turbos had 3.7 diffs.

you could be 180 off. take off teh driver side timing belt cover and rothate the crank until the dot on the cam pulley is at 12:00, then rotate the crank till 0 deg pops up, make sure the disty is pointing a #1 (just to the right of the screw on the cap.

i woulnt try the vac actuation fo rth elo rance since clutching is required and there is a lag in actuation withthe vac system. but if you used the vac system for the 4wd, and the lever for hi-lo, then theroretically, with a divorced actuation such as what you want, you can run lo range in FWD as for the rear diff hanger, drill the holes all the way through the trunk and use some long bolts, since the bottom side is only 3 layers of stamped sheetmatal about 1/4 in thick total. the holes will come through exactly along the edge of the trunk inner wheel well plastic line if you keep the fwd rear struts you will have more lift according to a recent post aside from the transmission itself, all the othe related parts(driveshaft/clutch/etc are all the same for any 4wd 5mt

i detest this notion. the spfi has a O shaped shaft for the rotor and the turbo has a D shaped shaft and a taller cap and rotor. O rotor and shorter cap fits on D shaft but not the other way around. you will need the matching cap for the rotors being used otherwise there is no difference between 2wd or 4wd. UNLESS, this only applies to 1987 models or 85-86 spfi (round plug pigtail) #1 cylinder is on the passenger rear of the motor. and notice the orientationof subarujunkies illustration. no one is looking at their motor from inside the car with the hood up or down! (junkie you should flip that picture upside down) rotation is 1-3-2-4, counter clockwise. #1 on the cap is the terminal on the rear to the right of the clip/screw. if you take out the distributor(which you dont need to) refer to the timing belt article in usrm

dont forget that the gears are sharing the same fluid as the front differential. pure atf will kill the front diff, but a temporary drive on it could free things up. i would be more comfortable with gear oil with a touch of atf instead just use regular old gl-5 type oil

all of them the ea82 trannies will fit but the rear mount is a little bit different. you can adapt the rear mount with minor fabbing .other than that they are the same in design, the pump shafts, governors and torque converters are interchangeable between ea81 and ea82, fwd and 4wd 3spd at's if you are replacing the trans due to shifting problems, check the governor as it may be your problem. do some searching for "governor shaft" somewhere there is an article on how to service it.

well if they are hyper extended already, then of course they will pull out all the way with any suspension articulation. if you drop the whole diff (lower it down at the moustache bar so the angle is not so sharp) the axles wont be rifing on the edge of the doj, and youmake the drop shackle for the front half of the diff so you dont have such a sharp angle at the driveshaft. with the AA lift, the rear suspension is riding higher in proportion to original suspension geometry. easy way to gain inches, but the oroginal geometry is compromised(maxed out) droppin ghe whole diff away from the tube frame will correct this. i dont see why AA cant make a drop shackle withthe lift kits.(unless they nover thought to do so) my buddy home-made rear strut extensions and dropped the whole diff, including a drop shackle (like the rear shackles on a leaf spring). in fact, he used a clevis pin instead of a bolt for a "quick disconnect" diff (good for you welded diffs out there)

the link is supposed to go here: http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/clutch.htm although i still need to make a write up for it. can i use your pics on this page? i never seem to have a camera any time i have cars apart.

make a drop shackle for the front diff mount. this will krrp ypur u-joint angle true

no cutting at all. but if its going into a 2wd body, the carrier bearing mount is not present, and you will have to fabricate. take a 12 incl ong bar of flat 2 inch wide steel . drill 2 half inch holes 10 inches apart on center. take 2 4 inch pieces of flat inch wide steel and make a hole on the ends. you will notice one tab on the carrier bearing is higher than the other. if you bolt the small pieces of steel to the carrier, then slip the 12 inch steel between, the 4 inch pieces will overlap and underlap the main bar respecitvely. butt up the ends and weld it up. now that its welded up put the driveshaft in and jack it up against the body, center it up, and drill thru the holes in the steel use 1/2 wide bolts and 1 1/2 inch washers at tthe top and a flat washer with a locking washer on the bottom. the bolt holes will end up exactly in the corner of the seat suprt and the trans tunnel.

yeah go ahead and put the rest down the booster hose. the oil change was only necessary for putting sea foam in the oil. run the last of it down the booster tube, and call it a day