MilesFox

bleeding air out of subarus is somewhat tricky, especially having to wait till the right moment the thermostat opens and being there whenit does that. hold the revs up and squeeze the hoses, watch this video:

well since you would already have the can, pop off the hose to the brake booster and stick it in the can pf sea foam. start the car till it sucks about 1/3d of the can into the motor. the car will want to stall so you will have to hold the throttle open. once you sucked in enough sea foam let the car stall out or turn it off and let it sit for about 10 minutes. put another 3rd of the can in the gas tank put the last of it in the oil after 10 or 15 minutes get in the car and drive it around. holy smokescreen batman. that is how to use sea foam

the harnesses should acommodate the ccu somehwere, i am assuming based on my ea82 knowledge. there should be a vac diaphragm oon the pedal assembly to physically actuate the throttle. be sure to grab that too.

add the seafoam and/or mmo just before an oil change, or change the oil afterward anyway. put about 1/4 or so of the can in the oil and change the oil after a few days driving or something like 100 miles. changing the oil is recommended because all the junk that gets loosened up is now floating around. dont worry too much about the oil level. according to the dipstick, you could be a quart either way of the full mark without too much troubles.

well it has been a while since i saw this mythical car. i do remember it being a gl1-10 sedan with digi dash and automatic 4wd, light blue. maybe it was a carb. but i do know there was an mpfi non turbo 85 gl-10 because spfi wasnt available and a carb was not gl-10 worthy. anyway here is that vin page once again http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/rx/vin.htm

me and my buddy had to use a length of subaru exhast pipe and hang from it, as a last resort. see this video!

so i ended up with 2 12oz cans of the stuff. i tried some out on a rusty strut top and on some rust spots(that have been brushed and treated with a hydrochloric compound) on the RX. looks like fun stuff, i wish i had this stuff before i enamel painted my rear suspension. product claims it can be used on aluminum as well. "its elehtrochemical action provides protection that withstands 2000 hours of salt spray testing" contains 95% pure zinc metal http://www.zrcworldwide.com/pdfs/GALVILITE_9_07.pdf

i know for sure the hoses on an ej are larger than an ea82 t hoses. another thing i for sure know is the xt6 radiator hoses are larger tha ea82's as well. what you would find out is if the hose nipples are the same size between the two. of so, then there is a direct fit. but xt6's may be hard to come by.

you would only gain from that if you were to entirely remove the rear axles as far as rolling resistance is concerned and the diff and driveshaft if weight is a concern other wise the #1 thing you can do is inflate the tires to within 10% of max pressure (35 psi max/10% =3.5 [35-3.5= 31.5] essentially 32 psi. go by the rating on the tire instead of the ratings on the door striker

on my sedan i shoved in some coil spring spacers and yes, did the washer trick on the engine crossmember. there is enough threads there to go at least half inch. i didnt have crazy ccamber issue, althoug it was only coil spacers. on the radius rod at the bushing it is possible to get more positive caster on the struts

it does have air suspensions, with all that i bet its a gl-10 turbo traction like mine, but a sedan with a dual range. could have been special order. rare stuff like the mpfi non turbo 84 gl-10 mentioned in another thread.

hell yeah you blokes over there sure know your mix and match. one could have assumed they smelled BS with this topic but i guess not! that is some great info. can you tell us more on the stud conversion kit? and of course, pics!

the head gasket should be ok with what you have described so far. unless you forgot to mention driving along till she stalled and pegging the temp gauge, i highly doubt you blew the head gaskets go ahead with replacing the timing belts and water pump, may as well do the front seals while you are there. altogether it should not cost any more than 100 bucks for parts. maybe 150 depending on how you shop. do this and you will be fine. if you are worried about the head gaskets after all that, then look into a new radiator, as the radiator itself is the waekest link of the cooling systems and is generally the cause of most overheats

i remember from many years ago, my 2nd ever subaru, first ever ea82 was a 85 turbo traction wagon. this one had the automatic (which are single range) and had the red on black intereior with the fancy checkered seats. as far as a trim level goes this hould be the rarest. mechanically your car is the same as any thru-94 subaru loyale, gl, rx turbo. electrically, the motor is the same as 85-86(specific to engine harness, disty, MAF) here is the VIN chart: http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/rx/vin.htm

there actually was an n/a mpfi ea81 in the 84 gl-10. mpfi was offered as a premium but spfi hadnt been developed yet. this is why you can also find na/ mpfi ea82's in 85 gl-10's to go with turbo, either route, you would have cut out or otherwise modify a depressionin the crossmember for the cross pipe. the simplest thing to do to go turbo would be to swap an ea82t with wiring harness, or even a complete ea81 with ea82 engine harness. use 85-86 harness/ecu fo that) otherwise with the amount of work you can go ej if not for all the work, and you want something to drive, just go find any ea82 spfi motor and throw your carb onit and call it a day. you will actually gain compression, and the ea81 intake fits almost the same. just look up ea82 conversions, it has been done a few times. i have done a few myself.

i would rule out the head gasket UNLESS there is water in the oil, oil in the radistor or check for bubbles in the radiator withthe cap off whel the car is running from what you have stated already ths would be the only cause for alarm to the head gaskets. if you have bubbles, there is compression gases getting into the cooling system, and it will push coolant out the overflow. how much coolant per day did you have to add? i would suspect the water pump had been leaking. my luck hasnt been so great re-using old water pumps. you may as well get one, if you shop around you can probably have it for 30-40 bucks. check the little hose that goes from the thermostat housing to the top of the block. see if there is any coolant on the top of the block. it is also possible you have a bad intake gasket for mysterious coolant loss

what are you doing to make the wrx coiover fit on the ea82 knuckle. since ea82 the strut fits into a sleve on the knuckle, whereas the wrx knuckle is a macpherson strut with bolts thru the knuckle? or do you have xt6 suspension? either way keep us posted on the progress

where at in indiana are you? i used to life in fort wayne/auburn area. i have an 88 gl 4wd sedan you are welcome to it for parts. there are some lift kits available for purchase if you spend the money. its not terrible to fabricate a lift if you know the basics. thehardest thing about it is sourching m12x1.25 bolts because the 1.25 thread is uncommonoutside of subarus but either way, the entire suspension unbolts from the car as whole units, whic allows a body lift, which allows for wheels. the suspension geometry is fixed on these cars, so if you try to do any suspension lifting, just make sure you have a good knowledge of suspension geometry.

you would have had to turn the piston to recess it in its bore to fit new pads. the braking system is cross(dual) diagonal, and the bleeding has to be done LF RR RF LR. so whatever front wheel you replaced the caliper on, belaad the rear wheel on the other side of the car along with it.

i have a carb block with turbo setup in the 87 rx. runs just fine stock. i simply bypassed the 3rd vent on top of the block, for lack of having a proper TEE. the pistons themselves should swap no problem, but you have to split the block

my transmsiion did the same thing. eventually you will lose 2nd gear, then get stuck in 1st or reverse. mine capped out totally at 258,000 miles. i swapped in a used unit from a 93

physically it would be all bolt-on. you would have to make a mount for the driveshaft carrier. aside from phyically bolting together, the "AWD" 4eat transmsion has a TCU (transmission control unit) that would have to be swapped over. unless you isolate its harness from the rest of the car, it would probably be easier to swap the wiring harness as a whole. but for that amount of work what its worth you may as well swap in some ej22 stuff if you want to swap in automatics your best bet is to find a 3 spd auto (3at) and swap it in along with its driveshaft and rear diff, and front axles.

does the horn work? check fuse #5 clock/horn. this is hot all the time and supplies volts to the ecu itself. check the ign fuse too do you have an aftermarket radio? if so, see if the single green wire has grounded out blowing mentioned fuse. the black fuse link provides master power to the fuse panel. battery cables are known to fail in the middle of the length inside their insulation, but that is probably not your problem.

after removing the pitch bar and unbolting the engine mounts from the frame, place a jack under the diff of the transmissopn and raise the whole work sup about 3 inches so the motor can slide forward without hanging up on the frame. the bottom engine studs are about 3 inches long, so the motor has to slide forward that much before you can finally lift it out. tie your chans or strap to thealternator bracket and the pitch bar bracket, just slide a bolt thru there. this will give you control of the fore-aft tilt of the motor since you will have to do some maneuvering this way to line up the bellhouding and input shaft when going back together.

if you would be towing or have the car heavily loaded down, you could pick up a transmission cooler from u-haul from 40-80 bucks depending on which one you get. installation would be about 60 bucks or so. easy enough to install yourself if you really wanted to.