MilesFox

i have used speaker wire before and it worked, but i would recommend sticking to original gauge or do like general disorder suggested, as to not have problems with resistances and overdrawing the ignition module

with the hatchback the parts listings can be vague since the cross referencing confuses it with ea82 stuff. try asking for parts for an 84 wagon or the same year BRAT

everything on the front of the car, fenders, hood, bumper, headlightrs will fit from any 85-89 gl sedan, wagon, 3-door coupe, and 90-94 loyale sedan, wagon, coupe DL models have different headlights and bezeld but thet will fit in place of what came original. aside from thet, fenders, hood, bumpers fit the same. welcome to the subaru LEGO set, build it how you like with any part you want

bent rear trailing arm? that will throw the steering wheel crooked

nissan/datsun was a common parts manufacturer with subaru

we should know by now that subarus are a little bit tricky ot bleed the air out of with topping off the cooling system. as part of my video series, this one demonstrates what to expect in adding coolant to a subaru, and shows where mistakes can be made in thinking the system is full when it's not. in this video the owner of trhe car(zanny dook) drove it after forgetting to put on the radiator cap and lost coolant. after topping it off and reinstalling the cap he had overheating issues, and some hillbilly told him to remove the thermostat, and he broke a housiong bolt after trying to put it back together. i go to fix his car after it sat for a day and demonstrate proper filling technique. i shot this in may of 2005 sometimes it takes a good 20 minutes to do it properly. 3 trains went by in this one.... moderators move to the appropriate forum if you like, or even post it in USRM

the smell and the reaction is similar to that of high strength toilet cleaner, like the kind you mix with foil in a pop bottle to make works bombs

i have a knob from a toyota hilux 4x4. i was going to say a lugnut will fit but jerry beat me to it

krylon is fairly good paint, but it will be cut down by gasoline if you are paintingnear the fuel cap. the orange and white are krylon and the balck is the generic wal-mart rustoleum wannabe "color place rust control stuff" so far with spray painting many of cars i have found the plasti-kote duplicolor to be the most durable. you may want to consider a rust stopper such as por-15. i myself have never used the stuff, but i got ahold of a product calld 'rust-n-me' or something like that i scored from the shop at u-haul. it looks like washer fluid. i am prepping the rx with it now, just brush on and it chemically dissolves the rust and seals it. the purpose of this product is to apply to rusty truck bumpers, and then wipe it off, it sticks to the rust but does not affect any paint, thus wiping off clean.

if you remove the whole headlight assembly there are metal clips on each side that will allow the lens to be separated from the rest of the housing.

the rear strit will fit from another soob however you find it. the "nut" for the wheel bbearing is a big ring nut, like that of a fuel pump mointed in-nank that needs a tool to grip it. if you look on the back of the trailing arm you will see the notches for theis tool you should be able to find on e at napa labeled "import bearing tool" or something similar expressin ght eword "import" if you look at it you will see how the notches are

that car has an ea82 in it. it came out of my 88 sedan, and originally came from an 86 wagon with over 200,000 miles. i popped the head gaskets once and drove it around lik ethat(exhuast in coolant) and when i put a different motoro in my sedan i did the head gaskets on it and put in in the trashwagon. the trashwagon itself originally came from subiemech's and we drove it back some 400 miles to milwaukee, painted it overnight, and went on the hot rod power tour through indianapolis and back. the neext day when we got back, it broke the cluch cable and it was parked. after it sat for the winter the cable was fixed, but the motor broke something internally after startup. we put in an ea82 that came from the original trashwagon 5, the motor it ran on its infamous road trip then it went on the babe rally 2006 and blew up trashwagon's motor and was towed back from virgina and then go thte sedan's motor here is the sedan as it is now. will probably do the babe rally with it(runs and drives flexo pipe exhaust. passenger side head with open aav port on head, and the jb weld has fallen out mysteriously uses coolant pressure plate is weak, making shifting chunky the rear trailing arm is cambered in at the top the center console is broken from the passenger seat(t-bone) the rea diff has fallen out at one time, and i had to take it off to keep hoing. i got the doj cups apart but the outher cvs do not come apart. the driveshaft was already broken and tied up with a coat hanger. i drove it for 200 miles with the rear axles hanging and the diff in the trunk this would be its 3rd motor from original it is a fwd at to 4wd 5sod so it has a pushbutton start and no reverse lights i shorted something in the radio harness that i have to backfeed voltage from a defunct aftermarket fog light swithc to make the ign come on the key fits my 87 rx the same, same cut/code from the facotory, but the doors on the sedan are not original, and i lost that key it has ghetto spring boosters in the rear the interior is mixed and batched between 2 86 wagons and 87 gl10 fold down rear seats with an xt driver seat. the steering wheel is fom an 86 sedan. the suspension is 87 rx struts, 88 wagon crossmember, and 86 wagon rear suspension with a random trailing arm

*(here is the link if you can put it in the appropriate section, or even make a new section for part number related material)* Subaru Parts Guide 1985-2002 2-door/mpv(brat and hatch), Loyale(ea82's) and XT. the scans do not include the new gen chapters, so tecnically these particular scans cover 1985-1994 http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/partsguide/

i have scans from an 85-90 parts guide. i scanned the ea81 and ea82/xt sections. i did not scan the new gen chapters. here is the link: http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/partsguide/ i'll post it in USRM

110 mm water pump, it is the longer shaft with studs and the pullet slides over the studs. typical of spi with m a t s u s h i t a AC otherwise if the pulley fits on with 4 bolts its the 105 mm typical of turbos with htachi compressors do the cam seals and oil pump too if they leak

well just drive it with the axles dangling. yes, you can do that FF to 4:20

i would be all over it.

if this whole ordeal is over welding the diff, then why not just remove the rear diff cover and weld the gears with it on the car?

what you descrive with the oil gauge is normal. withthe sustained high rpm under load i would bet the oil pump seal sucked in on itself. generally high revs willl make a lifter tick go away if it was due to dirty oil or the car had sat for a long time replace the oil pump seal, search "mickey mouse" gasket, since the gasket is shaped like that, and one of the 'ears will suck in. use a dab of silicone on the ears to hold it in place when you re seal the pump itself should be fine. all the pumps i have removed have the cavitated gasket. fix the oil pump seal and change the oil and the tick should go away. save all the labor for the cam towers if the tick persists after doing the oil pump seal here is a tip: remove the pitch bar and take the nuts off the motor mounts and jack up the motor by the transmission and it will raise up a good 3 inches and this will allow better access to the valve covers and cam towers

plenty of heat and PB blaster. sweat the moisture out and let the pb soak in. heat, spray, heat, spray, hammer, roatate, heat, sppray, hamme5r rotate. use a 3 lb hammer because a ball bppne or a capenters hammer just wont do. if you can get theputer end of the axles out of the spindle end, its eaier to pund away withthe hammer withthe whole diff out of the car. clean the splines up real good and use anti seize when you go back together

remember that the 3 bolts in the center of the head are shorter then the rest of the outer bolts

charging system related. typical of an alt/volt reg. going out. if the volts seem fine when the battery is unhooked, maybe the battery is bad and is overdrawing the alt when it is hooked up. try replacing the battery and see if that fixed it before the alternator finally does take a dook

i had an 86 carb wagon that was just up and given to me. single owner with over 300,000 miles. the cankshaft had about 1/8 inch of back and forth play. the car was rusted out enough the fuel lines ripped apart while baja'n. i kept the car going with a gas can under the hood. eventually the car was parted ut and the heads withtheir lifters continued to live on on another bottom end. 200 bucks is a fair price. since you dont have to deal with rust, you can always drop in another motor that you have laying around if this one craps out. but i say you are good to go. the car probably needs to see some 4-5,000 rpm revs for a 15-30 second duration, you would be surprized if that makes the ticking go away. i would tell you it probably ticks because it has been sitting around, and not because of the mileage

i will give you 250 bucks for it, and pick it up on the first leg of the BABE rally. the car deserves it. if you would be serious to entertain the notion, send me a PM i was going to take my sedan, but i can trade it to you for its weight in parts(dual range, rx struts)

the switch is single throw double pole. there is no off position on the button when the button is pressed, it turns on the solenoid that actuates a vacuum diaphragm on the transmission in one direction. when you unpress the button, it turns on the other solenoid drawing vacuum on the other side of the diaphragm and disengaging it. so suppose the button on the shifter is bad? if so, you can engage 4wd simply by reversing the vacuum lines at the solenoids, essentially making the switch work backwards.(off is on and on is off for 4wd) but you will have to switch them again to disengage the 4wd(with the same bad switch)