MilesFox

there is a relay above the steering column directly above the ecu. the BROWN one it will trip with a signal from the ecu caused by a pulse from the distributor. if you plug in the green test (static timing) clips the pump/relay will cycle onand off every 2 seconds. if the test clips prove to work, then you need to look at the distributor, mainly to see if it is turning or not(broken timing belt) turnong the key to the on position will kick on the pump for a second until it sees a signal from the disty to keep going it is possible the fuel pump is getting voltage but is not grounding. the ground side ties in withthe rest of the body ground. you can jump a new wire directly to the body if it is necessary

a long time ago i once put ea82 inner tie rods on an ea81 manual rack formy ea82 suspension conversion there is a flat washer thet is folded over the lock nut. if i'm not mistaken the inner threads are left hand. it has been a while hence my vague recollection. i remember having more difficulty slipping the boots back on if anything

this is not necessary. the factory radio is common ground for the speakers of the wires on the car, you will have 3 for the front speakers and 3 for the rear. each has a left+, right+ and common ground if you are connecting an aftermarket radio use one ground wire for the front channel and one for the rear. side doesnd matter. simply leave the unused wires disconnected on the back of the radio, dont even need to tape them off(just tuck them out of the way or twist them together AND THIS FOLKS IS HOW YOU CONNECT A COMMON GROUND

follow the rubber hose up to the back of the motor and unplug them, cap off teh ports the hoses connect to with a piece of rubber inner tube and a hose clamp you can eliminate the whole mess if you can find a plug for the exhaust port. the rest of it just bolts to a bracket on the back of the head. you can make a block-off plate or just weld some random bolt to the end of the chopped tubing but yes, it can be eliminated and later models exhasts will fit the same. ask for a 94 loyale unless they are making one from scratch. if that's the case have a 2 inch cherry bomb in place of the resonator and do away with the muffler, turn the timing up to 10 or 12 deg

the 105mm would be the AC version with the the hub closer to the pump bpdy on the shaft, and the pulley bolts to it. typical of turbos with the hitachi (square) compressor the 110 mm would be the studded hub that is on the end of the shaft, and is typical of spfi's with the matsu************a (round) compressor the panasonic compressors are typical of dealer installed AC

well with an ej22 with 255,000 miles, we changed the oil to synthetic and held the rpms at 6000 rppm periodically during warm up, and that cured lifter tick

so if you have power gong to one axle, wther it be front or rear you will have nothing to lose over FWD, but overall this makes the power more spread out for handlling and sport driving vs FWD. for example cornering in a FWC could spin a wheel and understeer, whee the full time could let that power out th the rear to kick the back en dout. and with the diff locked you get what you are used to already. so really, the only thing you have to lose is FWD only, which is not a bad thing it is possible from what i have been reading to put a viscouls center diff from a legacy nto the rx trans to make it a true AWD with lo range.

as already stated preperation is most important i have spray painted many many cars so i will share with you my tecnique and expertise the cheap wal mart primer is just as good ans any top brand primer. the walmart stuff you can buff down with a scotch brite pad or even a paper towel between coats. rustoleum or duplicolor paints work best for final coats. the cheaper wal mart pant will fade and axodize without a clear coat. the rustoleum will last long without a clear coat. the duplicolor or anthing with a flake splarke will look best with a clear coat. tape off everything and remove what you can beofre the final spray. find a place out of the wind, work on one direction uniformally, and dont stop in the middle of a coat! if you have new cans, use the first top hald of each can for horizontal surfaces like the hood and roof, and use the bottom half of the cans for vertical surfaces like doors and fenders. if taping off between colors allow the first coat to dry so the tape doesnt take it off. dont leave tape on too long or it will leave residue on the paint. peel tape sharply away opposite of the edge to not peel up the paint with it. your concentrated wheel dressing mix sprayed on after a wash when the car is still wet acts like a wax for spray paint. apply wit a spray and wet cloth. lift off the button between passes since this is painting, not scribbling like you do with an eraser. overlap your passes so they blend uniformally. if you get the light angle just right you can watch the paint melt into itself. if a coat looks rough it will melt into itself as it spreads out. if a coat looks to thin, keep going anyway as long as the paint is smooth, and the paint will cover better on your 2nd or 3rd coat. i recomment 2 coats of primer and 2-3 coats of paint. for each color, or type of paint, it takes about 1 can for the hood, 2-3 cans for the sides, and 2 cans for the top/rear, roughly 6 cans each coat 6 cans of primer and 6 8 cans of paint should get you about 2 coats each

average going price would be around 125. 175 is more of a price including the flywheel and clutch and driveshaft and all that. with he one you found today, make sure you at least have the shifter. if the shifter is not with it, or partially missing, try to offer up 150 instead. really 150 would be a better price if you can get it for that

all the vac lins can be removed, if you have the intake off the whole metal vac line system is removeable as one piece, and you would connect the cabin vacuum from the firewall to the nipple on the intake itself. although i dont recommend this unless something is broken or you are building legos. i stripped my sedan's spfi and it could stand to run better. anf anything you eliminate it could be the egr or purge control, but only if those systems dont work anywy. althoug it looks like a rat's nest, the spfi vac system is rather simple

this will not work withthe parking brake set oh, and a loose castle nut will act the same as a bad wheel bearing. but if its loose for too long then it can destroy the baring or the splines in the hub.

if this is trasshwagon 5mkII one of the ball joints have been replaced. i cant remember is we did both or not ball joint noises occur when hitting bumps, potholes and washboards, and if floppy enough, can cause the wheel to shimmy off and on at varyting highway speeds, and feather the outer treads on the tire. how are the axle boots. the inner boot may have some sand or gravel in it. actually on the original trashwagon i had a pea gravel in the doj, and drove 600 miles from iowa tha way. ask mcbrat if he remembers that... anyway if the doj gets bad enough that will cause a rumble in the seat, and be somewhat progressively louder as it gets worse. it can be bad enough to cause a vipration int he wheek, but not so much handling problems. if the outer cv is bad enough the race can hang up inside and jertk the steering out of your hands, and sometimes you have to turn sharp the other way or while reversing to reset the race, if its that bad expect it to break when you accelerate while turning. otherwise if the whgeel bearings are bad, the car can wander to one side or the other. you will hear a noise turrning in the direction of pull and it will go away turning the other direction a bad bearing if bad enough, will let the brake rotor ride sideways and wer the brake pads at an angle, and even be so bad the rotor rides against the caliper bracket. on my sedan it was so bad that i had metal to metal brakes, and if i turned while reversing the rotor would hang up against the caliper4 bracket and lock up if you have the hubs from the gl1- sedan thosw will sap over wither withtheir axles, or by themselves with tw5mkII's or a new axle. but once you have the axle out its no more than a seal puller and a drift punch to replace the bearings. you can get replacement bearings for about 30 bucks, some of th eaftermarket are sealed bearings, but pack the hubs with grease anyway and emove the seal on the inner sides of the sealed bearings.

if that is the case, then go get the vac solenoids and lines off any pushbutton 4wd to use the diff lock if the transmission is presented without it's donor car. otherwise, grap that part from the donor.

with all the work involved it may just be easier to pull the trailing arm with the axle from a junker. cnances are if the DOJ was cut off, then the 4wd nut and drum are seized(rusted) to the splines. just get a junkyard part, and change the bearing in that if you feel its necessary. but i would only worry about that after you replace the part and see how it drives

everything will match up the same. 3.9 hear and 23 spline axle. get the trans and the shifter. te crossmember, flywheel, clutch and driveshaft fiththe same. if you are lucky to find a full time rx tranny, the old 4wd shifter button will work the diff lock, but you would need a 3.7 diff and 25 spline axles to swap an rx tranny. save the solenoids and the vac assembly for the pushbutton for later use, to fix another car, or to sell to someone who cant find the part

i usually bump up to as much as 25 or 27 deg. 25 deg is just fine on pump gas. spfi and carbs are set for 20 deg. this helps her rev out inthe higher rpms and runs more smoothly with my open exhaust. in my conjuncture of various exhaust setups i find you can tune the timing to the exhaust pulse. you can almost hear the exhaut pulse move up and down the pipe and then tune it to where the pulse is right at the end of the pipe. i run a 2 inch cherry bomb immediately after the y pipe and then 1 3/4 or 2 inch pipe to the rear axle, then end there or turn out to the side how is gatlinburg? i went through there twice on 2006 and 2007 BABE rally. "Nug" from the board here went on this trip too. i was the one in the crazy toyota camper withthe u-haul trailer behind it, following the beat up VW van withthe words in tape 'show me your I' after the park rangers made them take off the t,the t, and the s

(95 legacy)this last wednesday when we had 15 inches in madison i got my legacy stuck behind the truck stop in madison. the car stalled and when i tried to start it the battery was dead. i looked under the hood and the alt belt was wet, and there was snow packed up past the crank pulley from underneath. enough so that it cased the timing belt to jump(hydro tensioner) i guess this would be an arguing point for open vs covered timing belts. this would have been my only other failure since having a loose rag under the hood in my rx. although a skid plate woud have prevented this! anyway the car was stalled and not stuck, but inaccessible to anything short of an f-350 with 4wd. it would have been either impossible or too expensive to have the car moved to somewhere out of the snow, so i had to come back the next day and fix it where it sat. this is where the open belts paid off. all i had to do was remove the tensioner and its 2 bolts, and that's it! i used the vice and some baling wire at the diesel sh0p next door to compress the tensioner, and then drove my car 200 miles immediatelt afterward. she walked right out of the hole where she sat the ironic thing the same car did the same thing exactly a year ago in the same place. but it had its covers then, and now they are naked since that paticular repair

locking the diff on a full time tranny makes it behave as a part time unit engaged in 4wd, same handling, same dont use on dry pavement. if the full time center diff is non viscous then it is possible to have as much as 100% to the front or rear, or anywhere in between. the 87 rx with lsd and diff not locked can still spin one tire on the front. with my car, diring hard cornering WOT, the inside front tire wants to peel out before the back end wants to come around the full time trans, if it came from a turbo, will have 3.7 gear ratio and 25 spline axles. if your gl-10 was a manual then its a direct swap. automatics are also 3.7 gear but the 3at has 23 spline axles, the 4eat has 25 if the gl1- was a single range push-button 5spd, then the vac solenoids and all that hook up the same to the full time tranny for the diff lock. on my particular car(since now has been parted out) i had the rx driveline in a gl10 wagon. the center console had the diff lock switch, but the plug was different. i simply kept the 4wd shifter knob off to the side and its button to lock the diff

in my 4wd conversion sedan with fold down gl-10 seats i can fit an engine crane, a spare ea82, 2 tool boxes, a weekend's luggage and my happy rump roast across 700 miles at 27 mpg. and this leaves room on the roof rack and trunk luggage rack for whatever i pick up along the way. in a loyale wagon we fit an xt motor and transmission, a legacy motor and transmission, rear suspension, front suspension, xt rear suspension, tools, luggage, other random parts, and a full set of tires(on the roof)

85-94 all fit the same, for all ea82. the only differences between models would be the height from 2wd and 4wd, 85-86 were adjustable, but they will all fit the same for any wagon, sedan, 3door, and 4 cylinder xt, and in place of anything with air struts. any other differences would be spring rates although any springs will fit any struts the only thing that wont fit the same is xt6 and ea81's

febders, bumper, and hood are the same. the only thing different is the headlight bucket and bezels. in fact, i believe the headlight buckets themselves swap with ea81 and just for confusions sake, you meant to say 3-door. hatch refers to ea81

WD-40. it may be no good for rusty bolts, but window tint is definately one of its 1000's of uses. it will soften the sticky and make it so its not as sticky as well, you could scrape it off with your fingernail rather easily

you shorted out the single green wire at the back of the radia. i did this once and had to backfeed power thru that wire to get the ecu to come on. then i found the fuse some months later, after turning on my car witht he fog light switch.

just to throw this out there, and so that you know, the 3 bolts in the middle of the head are shorter than the rest. SO, if you have the short bolts on the outer edged and the longer bolts in the middle, there is your bottoming out issue, and probably what is wrong with your torque each time if you had not known or noticed this before.

wisconsin got hit pretty hard as well. i drove around all day indestructible as ever, pulling people put of intersections and driveways, just to have my timing belt slip on the way to work. (95 legacy) this happened going in deep snow, the snow is packed in half way up the crank pulley so i threw a deep cycle battery in my wrechked 88 sedan and resurrected it from the side of the house where it has not ran for the past 2 1/2 months.