MilesFox

just to make sure, since it hasnt been mentioned, is once the timing belts are aligned to the 3 marks and a full rotation cycle(a 2nd crank rotation AFTER lining up the 2nd belt) rotate teh crank until 0deg mark comes around and then line the disty. according to your other posts it appears correct with your description of the cam dots near 45 deg. the dot ont he passenger cam will line up with the hard edge on the valve cover, and the rotor points at the master cylinder. make sure the ecu fuse is good and the ign fuse is good. the creen connectors will cycle the fuel pump on and off when connected. once you set the disty itself at the 0deg mark, you plug in the green connectors to set the static timing with the timing light. the black wire on toe coil goes to the positive terminal, and the yellow wires go to the negative terminal. have a look at that

i have delivered pizza 4 subarus. as far as choosing one a fwd 5spd will get the best mpg but other than that nothing more than typical subaru maintenance. the car itself does rather well, especially in snow.

i agree what GLOYALE says, since i just read the rest of this topic AFTER posting my reply at the NPR board: Re: Update - 2003 Subaru timing belt replacement concerns 1 2 3 4 5 rating_830888.className = 'rated' + Math.round(0.0); //alert(Math.round(0.0)); in reply to the last thread, when the car is stopped in ger, with the brake on, there is still torque going thru the axle. and with the equal lenght of the axles the torque is going to go thru to the least path of resistance, being any SLOP in the doj or cv of the defective axle. for you who doubts this maybe it wouldnt prevail on a dideways mount engine with UNEQUAL lenght axles. and yes i am from USMB.

if you had the distributor out or the cams apart refr the the procedure in this link. the article refers to 4 cyl but th eprocedure would be the same for the xt6 in regards to timing and cam marks positions http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50768 aside from that, make sure the MAF, TPS and o2 are functioning correctly. the haynes book forgets to tell you to rotate the crank between installing the belts for each cam

stich to the 97 or prior legacy as the later models were prone to heag gasket problems. but then again the later models with problematic mothrs will swap in a n older 2.2 plug and play. suppose you can find a newer one with a bad motor for a good price and find a junker 2.2 that still has life in it.

i dont get how gm needs an australian version of itself to inspire them to come out with something new but already exists. that is like subaru of america designing something with a bench seat for fat people and cupholders then subaru of japan finds that innovative

just a shot in the dark but try cleaning the MAF. sometimnes they can be out of whack and not throw a code. or try swapping in another one. and make sure all the connecotors are clean, as this causes problems with things like the engine temp sensor

looking at this picture there appears to be more sharply of an angle with thelower control arms on the red ones. i put forester struts in my leganus, it seemed to bring the fron tup but the back doesnt seem any higher. but then again the rear suspension was shot and the springs are worn. i have LOTS of travel in the rear so i'm sure i can get another 3 inches of wheel clearance by using taller springs and spacers

zap, your link to the board goes to a pastor's conference. you put USMB instead of ultimatesubaru. dont go confusing these guys!

really, for that price i would come out there and fix it for you. aside from the traveling i would do the whole job for less tha what he wants for the FPR

ok. your mechanic is telling you you need a distributor because there is no spark. he is telling you you need a fuel regulator because there is no fuel. the timing belt is broken, thus not turning the disty, thus no spark thus no fuel tell him, no, i need a timing belt. take the car elsewhere and pay for the tow. obviously this mechanic either doesnt know about subarus or is trying to rip you off. and chances are if he does the timing belt he will forget to rotate the caenk(because there are 2 cams on 2 cylinder banks) and then tell you you have bent valves after charging you more than the car is worth. its a subaru, not some chevy or ford, dry to stay away from domestic only mechanics if you can if you want to take a crack at trhe timing belt yourself its really not that difficult with prober instructions http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/timingbelt.htm this article is also posted in this message board's repair section. to verify the timing belt is broken, take off the distributor cap and see if the rotor is turning when you crank the starter

yes, you could swap in the 2.2. should plug and play but at least you can swao the intake over if necessary. 2.2 should not be hard to find out of some wreck or junker, generally they go for 200,000 miles before they need anything serious(water pump) if you have heard of cindy's subaru heaven in cambridge i'm sure you could get a fairly low mile motor from them, although the guy is a but stubborn to haggle with. but if you find a 2.5 legacy with a bad motor and a good price then overall it would be worth the trouble

if oyu dont want to forget the fuel pump swithc, you can replace the swithc with a relay off the + coil terminal (or ign fuse in fuse block) this way the pump will turn on and off with the key.

http://www.myrallyforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=6219 someone plaease go after this

you got the wrong part becuase you have an 85. ea82's began production in 85 as well. by that note it's likely to be vage on parts such as brakes and axles, as parts stores have their heads in their anus about cross referencing. just be sure you know what you are getting before you go in, or just ask for parts for an 84

the car is designed this way. i learned about this trick with most imports working at a used carlots. even the 2000 mitsubishi mirage does this. in contrary, if you try do do this trick without the door locked, the door wont latch shut, unless it is locked. all the doors unlock with the front driver so if you forgot to lif the handle while closing, that is why all the door s unlock. if this were the passenger door, it would only affect that door and one more thing before you notice and ask about it, you will notice a 'door lock' light on the dash. this is simply to remind you that the doors are not locked(whiel in the car, child safety like feature. lock the doors and it goes away. also the rear door s have a switch near the striker for rear child safety lockouts, to prevent the door from opening on the inside.

Ok, 1986 4 x 4 Sedan, automatic. Took it out on icy, slightly snow covered roads, with some dry pavement intermingled. Didn't want to trash the transmission on first outing. 1. Under these conditions, good candidate for 4WD? >>as long as it's not dry pavement. you can get away with driving in heavy rain, on a straight road, at modrerate speeds. rain is not recommended for slow speeds with turning(in-town driving) but ok on the highway on heavy downpours or your typical back roads. 2. Safe to switch into 4WD at any speed? >> use the 4wd at any speed you like, up to any speed, and engage/disengage at any speed. so long as engage/disengage is going straight, do not eng/diseng while turning(in town type turns) 3. Safe to drive in 4wd at high speed, 50-60 plus (in conditions allow) >>as fast or slow as you can make it go 4. Usually good idea to be switching in and out frequently? >>probably better than never using it. switch in or out based on the rosd surface more than anything . The Subaru seems to run at 2000 and accelerates to 3000. 1. Is this normal? >>the 85-86 n/a 3at transmission has a final drive ratio of 3.7. later models have a 3.9. FWD automatics will cruise at better than 3500 rpm Oil Pressure guage This is floating around 45. Is this good or bad? >>typical, the oem gauge isnt the most accurate. go with a mechanical aftermarket gauge if this is important to you(which it should be!) Volts meter shows 12v while in motion, but drops to 8 or so with some dimming. Alternator going bad or normal? >> you may want to investigate this. sometimes the gauge isnt accurate. the warning lights will start to clow ambiently when the voltage becomes a problem Finally, temp guage runs in the middle...my Nissan rarely gets to middle unless during summer. 1. Is this normal? >> consider replacing the radiator. this can be considered normal, so long as the temp doesnt fluctuate towards the 3/4 mark. but better running soobs will hang within 1/4 the way up

i attempted it onece, but i found the hose nipples are larger than the ea hoses, and you would have to cut into the core support to recess the radiator down enough to close the hood

with my experiences some of the cheaper swithces will melt inside and lose a terminal. i would run a relay for that. otherwise use a nice heavy duty metal switch. you can take off power from the spare slot on the fuse link block

otherwise if the fuel pump is getting voltage, amke sure itis grounding. you can ground it directly to the body if that's what it takes

one: engage or disengage 4wd while moving and the steering straight ahead. if youhave a bind goose the gas or pull off into the shoulder or some other loose surface two: the clutch cable is probably too tight. adjust that first, then the hill holder cable

also tonot exclude this notion, has the timing belt broken? take off the disty cap and watch for the rotor to turn. the ecu needs to see a signal from the didty to turn on the fuel pump. this would be the next thing to look at if the relay is determined to be good both the ign and fuel pump relays should be very near the ECU, which is located in the trunk inder the rear decklid. the brown one is fuel, the green one is ign, try swapping them around and see if the ign does not turn on. if so, then your problem is the relay. if not, investigate the timing belt

if you do cap it off temorarily, a spray paint cap fits perfectly inside the bell that surrounds the ouput. then heav plastic (industrial garbage bag or thicker) and a large hose clamp i have done this for lack of having a driveshaft, and daily drove it for a while. hell i even drove it cross country. expect a little to drip out, but nothing more than the typical cam seal leak, etc

the no starting issue is probaby the cam angle sensor. my car does it, and will start if i wiggle it. i have read other posts abouthtis problem. the dealer tells me it was common problem, a newone is about 45 bucks. speaking of ghost codes, and pertaining to a 2000 mitsu mirage, it had the check engine light and i replaced the plugs and wires. the light is not on anymore, but it pulls a code for #3 misfire. so, can the codes be cleared with out an obd scanner?

is that french? dont hate on the guy, but give him the facts. but then again i get tired of all these "tuner message boards" that are all hype about "what kind of(random acronym) should i get" and yet the technical discussion sections are empty. and of ourse, lame driving u-tube videos you know, there is more to be appreciated by those of us who learned how to drive in real cars and before the likes of gran turismo and fast and furious although i see there is an increase of noobie hate going on around here.....