MilesFox

why not? i went 2300 miles to go pick up a car that was worth only parts, and dont get me started on that story. take along a good radiator and maybe an upper and lower rad hose. the rest should be fine, i wouldnt be afraid to do it. if anything make sure you have at leas 2 spares, as old corded tires can fall apart if they sat for a while. be advised, depending on the environment that it sat in, something like the fuel pump could quit working, or a timing belt can let go. dont go accelerating too hard to try and avoid that. if you want to take the time to replace the timing belts then go ahead car should start if it ran before. i went 300 miles onece to pick up a car, and the guy started it right before me after it had sat without running for almost 2 years. and it was carbbed.

for that price you could rent a 4x8u-haul, the low profile one. it will be just fine. lots easier to tow than whole cars, like i have done with subarus

all of the parts will fit the rear end is the same the gas tank is the same xt's are all ea82 motor and driveline wise. the body floorpan is most similar to sedans or coupes(like the rear cargo holds and rollpan" use the clutch and flywheel from the donor car along with its tranny the xt will not have a mount for the center carrier bearing on the diriveshft. as would be with any fwd ea82 the same rules would apply for the standard 4wd swap. the only exception with the xt is you will need a pedal box off amnother xt, but only if its an automatic. you may have to swap the clutch cable itself because the w2wd vs 4wd has different lenght thread. the hill holder will hook up the same

in my sedan i have had: engine crane full toolbox ea81 motor and related parts in a loyale wagon we had in the back: full tool box weekend's luggage ea82 mpfi full time xt transmission xt front suspension legacy rear suspsnsion ej22 other random related parts xt front seats and on the roof: full set of tires and drove the whole rig across 350 miles

looks like 15's are the new 13's as far as your standard factory issue steelies on the newer junk these days

experienced people can do it within 2 hours. if you are new entirely then give yourself the whole afternoon. if you really get into it with seals, (and if you had to do head gaskets) give yourself the weekend. remove the clutch fan and then the radiator. you will thank yourself when you go to remove the timing belt covers. the radistor doesn not need to come out, but like they said take it out anyway for the room if you have to lose the coolant for the WP anyway. now there will be a whole debacle of wether or not to leave the timing belt covers off. if you dont go as far as the cam seals and oil pump seal right at this moment i would leave them off, both outer and inner. this way you can get to everything easier. and if you did leave them off, the next TB job will take no more than 20 minutes with 2 tools, (well 3 if you count the ratchet and deep 12mm as 2) and save you from removing the crank pulley and the dipstick. and the water pump and oil pump can be serviced again with ease. i gouess you can argue the notion, but after all i wrote the book

i have been thrown in jail for things WAY less worse.

this thread died already. let it go.

enough with the arguing and stop the hate! so it is that i have been quoted. but i'm also a crazy mother************er, better ax somebody!! the owners manual says and i quote: "towing with your subaru is not recommended" http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/towing.htm

could you have the ignition wires on wrong? counter clockwise 1-3-4-2 with #! being thre rearmost terminal to the right of the cap screw, it should be looking straight at the master cylinder. also when the disty is a #1 the passenger side cam sprocket dot will be ponting at the hard edge on the corner of the vlave cover.

i have the same setup as mentioed above on my sedan, with a swapped in dual range 5s-d, amnd i tow whole cars more often than anything. i towed my rx from Fort Wayne, IN thru Chicago to Milwaukee, wi with the same hitch. its a little bit a pain in the rump roast to drive but this is one of those things you dont want to go doing unless you can handle your car end excercise your experience in towing. i have done donuts towing trailers as well.

cosmetic? sandpaper and spray paint

aside from no dual range or 13 inch tires my 95 legacy is a total champ in the snow this year, with new winter pike tires, its unstoppable. i can pass on the shoulder on the beltline towing a trailer in the unplowed shoulder. and the car stops and goes on a dime as if it were just merely wet roads, and handles like gran turismo for sure! i was pulling u-haul trucks and trailers out of the snow at work. the car has enough traction that you can stall it before the tires spin out. and this car has 262,000 miles with a used transmission as far as overall traction i think you woukd be best with a manual 5spd, and i believe the rear diff is vlsd the only place i have gotten my car stuck was in my own driveway trying to run the wall of snow left by the pl0w truck when i got a wheel off the ground. nothing some cat litter and a shovel couldnt let the car get out on its own, though

stupid internet acronyms. its so bad that highschool kits can't spell to save their life, and say worlds like "lol" in spoken conversation. so ridiculous. like an argument i heard that email is pointless, just send a text. and to back the argument the acronyms and abbreviations are easier to type on the phone. IT'S A PHONE!!!! PHONE!! dial the number and TALK ON THE PHONE.

i am 6'2 but i like to sit upright and somewhat forward because i cannot drive in a gangster lean posture especially if i have to lean forward to reach controls or even the shifter. i dont think its much of a legroom issue so much as it is a seating position issue.the seat in the subaru sits more like a chair, and that my seem less roomy especially if you are used to domestic makes where you sit with your legs straight out a mile under the dashboard. xt seats do sit much lower (since an xt has less headroom) and offer more headroom,and may give you more of a seating posture you would be used to. i have xt seats in my car and i like the posture much better, i sit down in the car more instead of feeling like ia m halfway above the dash.

i would check the intake gasket or the rubber hose betweent the top of block and the thermostat housing. according to the pic it looks like coolant is running down the valve cover, and then one way to the back of the head to make it nasty looking and the other way to the exhaust stud where it is actuall y dripping off. if it were leaking from the stud bore or the exhaust port you would most certainly have overheat issues or at least exhaust bubbles in the radiator pushing out coolant. the intake gaskets are easy to miss if you hadnt thought to look there first.

a loyale radiator will fit but the only benefit is that it will be newer. the turbo models have the dual core so ask for any turbo model, not just loyale.

what's up fellow fox bretheren. i have an 88 sedan i converted from 2wd auto to 4wd 5spd. it has been t-boned on the passenger side but is totally driveable. i am not sure what i am gong to do with it other than run it on next year's ba/be rally (www.baberally.com) or maybe chop it up into some sort of tube chassis sandrail type thing. i havent considered parting it out just because its still a compl;ete running and driving car. if you would be interested in it i would let it go to the right person. or part it out to put together the right car. my guys in milwaukee have an 87 fwd wagon that owuld eb a good platform to build. if you want a subaru you can just about go with anything you find, just for the simple fact you can put them together any way you like from parts form just about any other ubaru. in fact, your username is the name of my car. i am over here in madison, not too far away. unless you want to go out west for subarus, hit me up. milesfox@yahoo.com here is a pic of the car as it is now, i also have an 87 rx build and a 95 legacy, and i always have an eye out for local soobs to end up with. this car in particular has the following: 87 rx front struts and knuckles. short block and trans from 88 4x4 wagon with appx 115,000 mi. 135,000 mi heads ported with a dremel 87 xt n/a cams(from dual port heads) fold down rear gl-10 seats 60 amp alternator h-style aluminum wheels and 185-75 tires. other than that the car is stock layout besides the fact it once was a front drive automatic. the car itself has about 220,000 miles, was originally a virginia car when we picked it up some 4-5 years ago

i had a battery explode in my face serviceing a u-haul truck. i was popping the cap off and grounded my tool on the frame. i was not wearing safety glasses but i was lucky to escape with my vision. i go inside to proclaim that a battery exploded in my face, and the girl at the counter's response was "would you go pull up this truck for me"

could you have an INTAKE GASKET leak?

aside from argument and dismissal, i remember once reading a post about an overheating legacy. i then the belt broke and the waterpump was discovered to be seized. i would bet on a dragging water pump i have 261,000 on my legacy and the water pump is the only thing left to let go with everything else that has been done

i just get a kick out of the rust misconceptions for you folks wayward of the rust belt. i was at wcss5 in 03 if you want to know what i'm up to check this out http://video.google.com/url?docid=-7140049306933958823&esrc=sr1&ev=v&len=620&q=miles%2Bfox%2Buhaul&srcurl=http%3A%2F%2Fvideo.google.com%2Fvideoplay%3Fdocid%3D-7140049306933958823&vidurl=%2Fvideoplay%3Fdocid%3D-7140049306933958823%26q%3Dmiles%2Bfox%2Buhaul%26total%3D1%26start%3D0%26num%3D10%26so%3D0%26type%3Dsearch%26plindex%3D0&usg=AL29H22Y9jN4-W2sGqvS3CnRP_pzEVoDXQ

the whole car will fit. anything you want to swap but the 86 will have different shape rear quarter window in th elower corner and the grille, marker lites, and gauge bezel will be different. the display will be different color. but other than that, it will all work the same. the front calipers and rims will be slightly different, but whole assemblies will interchange

dude, go to milwaukee or madison. why not? subaru folks in both places! you dont need your mom to go with you, just someone you know with a license. go meet some people with licenses, and subarus, and there you go. wait a year and that wont be a problem. i usually see original belts let go between 135 and 145,000 miles. as this is the miles range i find original cars with broken belts go open covers. i do that all day long. if you plan on fixing your car the next time it takes the job down from 2 hrs to 20 min for anyone experienced. and what is all these MYTHICAL NOTIONS ABOUT RUST!?!?!?!?!? i swear to god the whole rust thing gets blown out of proportion. how about seeing rusty cars or having one before you think your car is junk because it has a paint chip. cam pulleys will not rust apart. only if they sit in a field with grass growing under the hood for years on end. there is enough of a slight oil film and war pattern to keep that from rusting out. give me a break. like i said, THE LOYALE, if you want help with the belts i will come over and whip it out in an afternoon just for something to do on my way back and forth from milwaulee to madison. i have done a complete headgasket job from a running and driving car to a running and driving car within the span of a saturday. i roll waukesha more than you know. i drive the car in the "waukesha off road" video on youtube. other than that, get your hands dirty and some miles behind you. use 30 wt oil. do donuts at wal mart. paint orange stripes on your car.....

there is no gasket between the cam tower, its a bead of silicone. anearobic or ultra grey is what you will need "import grey" as it may be referred to here are some pics of ea82t in various stages of headgasket repair