MilesFox

i went to the parts store once. looked up a temp sensor for an 89 gl-10 turbo touring wagon. not in stock. ok then, how about an 87 rx? not listed. ok then, how about a nissan 240 sx? here you go. i walked out with the part i needed and it worked. so look up a nissan if you must

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your best bet is to find a whole car for parts, say one that has been wrecked, or has quit running and the owner would soon junk it. at least for the major components. aside from parts sourcing it can be done either way. i have performed the following swaps: fwd 5spd to 4wd 5spd 4wd 3at to 2wd 3at(bad diff) ea81 5mt to ea82 dual range 4wd 3at 4wd ea81 to ea82 5spd dual range(and another between 2 ea82's part time 4wd to full time 4wd and finally: 3at fwd to 4wd 5spd dual range (twice) 95 legacy with a 93 transmission

the h4eads on the spfi will be missong the ports for all that anti backfire tubing running off the back of the heads. you can eliminate all that. you wi;ll gain compression with using the spfi longblock and the carb intake. other than that, it will all fit the same

valve cover gasket

i did some internet searches and read the foloowing: cant put studs on used tired because dirt gets in the holes, studs may fall out stuts are installed with a gin, according to the picture they look like rivets, i have a pmeumatic rivet gun i also read that some folks will take the tires and drill the holes thru the tread, and thread half inch screws fom inside and install a tube. i have some half inch screws with 5/16 hex head with slot for standard screw driver. the thread is corse and the tip very point. i chopped the ips off so the overall lenght is 1/4 inch i threaded one in with a dime and it seemed to fit snugly. if it stays i may do more my tires are pre-holed for studs i was told that a powersports shop may have them(snowmobiles, atv's) aside from studs, the ice we have would be snowmwlt that freezes the next day. my tires are siped rather well, and grip VERY WELL, i have read that the studs will affect traction on non icy surfaces as they sdont let the treads fully contact the ground. but i was entertained byt the guy at auto-zones notion to use screws, so i thought i would give it a go on the inner curcumfrence of the tire(to not be visible

my legacy has 261,000 miles. the belt let go 4,000 miles ago. i re-used the original tensioner. the tensioner is original for all i know, from what i was told they rarely fail. it's your call, but i ould only replace it if it has obvoius sighns of wear or has been squealing

i had a ford explorer with a clogged cat. glowed cherry red. it fould out the plugs and burned up the ign wires. i poked out the 2nd cat and changed the plugs, and made a 600% profit on the turnaround. i had the exhaust off my legacy to swap the tranny and holowed out the cats just because they were looking at me, and come apart at the cats themselves(try doing a y pipe without cutting it!) anyway, i do way more illegal things than drive with no cat so that is not a concern of mine

i have driven at highway speeds in 4wd with mny dual range. you can use it in the ran as well. i woud advise using 2wd in rain at slow speeds around town on surface streets(turning involved) but on the highway you will be fine, and you will feel more stability in the steering wheel once engaged. at highway speeds in the rain nothing is really going to bind because the natural effect of hydroplaning will relieve any binding. as far as the rest of it goies, the 4wd is just a pto to the rear, there is no transfer case, averything spins the same as it otherwise would in 2wd

I'm sorry but i moved from that area to misconsion. i uded to go back between ohio and indian fixing various soobs. if you entartain an engine swap a 2.2 will fit as a direct swap in. the 2.2 is a very good motor, better than the s.5 for longevity. mine has 261,000 miles be careful of any small time shops around there as they are going to be oldschool redneck domestic mechanics who never seen a horizontal motor before. your best bet for a "backyard mechanic" would be someone familiar with older volkswagens. there are soob people out there, mainly its a matter if they all know that are not the only one who likes subarus, and a lot of people in that regionm are not connected online as an everyday thing

m12x1.25 w/ 30 deg seat if you go buy some

where can i find tire studs and how are they installed. i have hancook snow tires wit holes for studs. how much would it cost to have 4 tires studded? the tire dealers in wisconsin wont sell them or install them, dont carry them. i am this close to threading sheetmetal screws in the holes

a slightly blown head gasket will seep exhaust into the coolant displacing the fluid. watch for air bubbles rising out of the radiator when the car is running. its possible your motor swap has a head gasket issue

95 legacy wagon. 261,000 mi. the car had 259,600 when i got it. all original motor. i put a transmission in the car to drive it but the motor is the same for all i know, and i believe it.

my rx has a sunoco food mart interstate sighn for floorboads...

i would guess something electrical with the coil. my 87 rx once ran a carb motor with an accel coil. the ign would cut out in the upper rpm inless i babied into it. with all the descriotions of symptoms it sounds too similar to my situation. i never could figure it out but maybe i had too much gap in the plugs too (and custom 8mm wires)

not entirely necessary. it is common for the cracks to be between the valves and even go down to the valve guide. only be aware of cracks inside the exhaust port, where it goes to the water jacket my rx had cracks between the valves down to the valve guides. i ported them with a dremel and they have been just fine

for donor cars, the front windows will be the same between wagons and sedans, but the rear door windows are wagon specific

DO NOT LEAVE THE 4WD LEVER IN FALS NEUTRAL/ JUST LEAVE IT IN HIGH. LEAVE THE GEAR LEVER IN NEUTRAL. sorry dam caps lock... anyway towing with a rop,strap,chain is no different than the car driving naturally as far as what the driveline can tell what you are NOT supposed to do is tow an awd on a tow dolly where the rear axl;es are turning on the road and the front wheels are on the dolly basic rule for towing AWD: all wheels on the road or all wheels off the road. as far as the rope people will arguew if its safe or legal but if you are in the country or what not, and as long as the guy in ythe rx being towed has enough sense to keep the slack out of the chain then you will do alright

your mechanic installed the belts with both cams up. he should do one side then rotoate the crank then do the other side. common mistake. i have seen a PERFECTLY goos 88 dl fo for 80 bucks after the previous owner spent 400 bucks on the timing belt. because the one cam was upside-dowen same goes for the xt-6 that tomrhere picked up a while back. i wrote the book on timing belts look it up!

i see the offset starter, so possibly the transmission AND motor are off a later model. also by design of the water pump this is a fat case motor as well

my rx was rusty at the seams enough that the rear floorboards are now a sunoco food mart sign. i have been using this "rust'n me"??? or something like that its's called, you brush it on and it eats up the rust. i have been using it with a wire wheel between apps and finally a coat of white galvanized primer brush-on.

what you are doing reminds me of the BABE rally (ny to new orleans) i went on the BABE in my toyota camper,averaged 15 mpg and drove4400 miles, used about 250 gallons of gas at an average of 3dollars per gallon fora cost of 750 in fuel

the big fat aluminum resistor on the firewall? check that as i have seen that misfire on a 91 legacy and still after an engine swap. changing the resistor fixed it

recycle your used bolys, save every boly tou remove. because when you havetwo 5 gallon buckets ov bolys to dig through, one of them just may have the one bolt you need. otherwise, good luck finding something with 1.25 threads, even the hardware store.